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Had to keep resetting my battery booster, annoying safety feature. Sorry it didn't seem like very long but after watching it again there's a fair bit of mucking about til i get it started heh .

Well this old car has been a lesson learned. Lots to go thru on these old beasts to get them really running well. Still a ways to go but my goal is 1) keep water out 2) keep fluids in I'm slowly getting there. Today I put a jerrycan of premium in her and took her for her monthly stretches.

The rainy weather that spawned all this trouble has stopped for a while and we've gotten some nice dry days, I've been airing the car out and now it is nice and dry in there. Which is to say, I have not had the opportunity to see if my repairs have staunched the seepage but next time it rains...

I think I found the culprit. I don't know if this was damaged from the factory ages ago as there's no rust to indicate it rotted off, but a portion of the overhanging lip along this area broke off somewhere along the way. Is this the seam? I have a feeling water has been seeping in here. Sealed...

As far as I can find there is no longer any E0 gasoline in the province of BC. Everything is up to 10% ethanol. From what I've read this means gas that will sit for a while needs stabilizer. I've also read it can gum things up. I don't drive the old gal much

Thanks! I will have to have another look and see if my car has that little shelf-like pinch weld. Even just looking at your picture it doesn't appear like the kind of place water would ingress so I may have very well glossed over it. What year and model is this car?

Hi there Reviving this particular point. Did many things, thought I had it solved. Long story short rainy season began and I still have the water ingress. I think it seemed okay in the summer and what I did probably helped but the main problem persists... Your point about the pinch weld stuck...

Ultimately I just gave my old battery a really good deep charge, a quick 12a charge to wake it up and then a long 2a trickle charge over the course of a weekend and now it's firing up just fine. But I noticed that my neighbor's battery charger boost pack thingamajig did not start it, even on the...

Thank you for all the replies. There was a lot of good information there I had not considered as much such as choosing the best warranty, that's definitely something I didn't do the last time I think that's why this time I'll go with a brand new battery. Also some interesting information there...

Hi there, Looking to get a good battery. Group 27 seems to be the proper size but I feel like I've seen higher CCA with group 34. Many websites call for group 24 but the CCA are low, 650 to 750. My car sits for a few weeks at times without being driven very far, and I don't have indoor parking...

I thought I'd replied by I guess I forgot to hit post . I bench tested this yesterday at work to 12v and the proper amperage and.... It works lol After all that .. I'm happy it works, and .... Now I have a verified electrical gremlin because this means it was likely working all along and...

I also have a small leak coming from the selector shaft seal which will.be done at a transmission shop so at that time I will have them fully suss out this housing issue, it's good to hear most believe it's repairable!

My rear axle tube apparently has a small crack along one of the factory welds, I'm sure it can be repaired but if not and I'm into it for a new axle housing are there any slightly more modern or more easily acquired vehicles where the housing would fit a 1973 Polara? I am not really versed in...

The shop that rebuilds these has everything they need and advised me to keep the squirrel cage on so as not to damage it so that's peace of mind, would have been nice to get it off myself but they are very confident they will get it off without issue so that's good. If they did break it I'm sure...

I will try bump testing it off the battery next chance I get, I do have some alligator clips. But it seems very much to be dead as a doornail. I have access to a heat gun, I could try that but I wouldn't want to warp the plastic either. If I get it off, have the motor rebuilt and it doesn't go...

Finally managed to get the fender off and the blower motor out, I had to cut the wires But there wasn't any other way, I'll make sure I solder them back with heat shrink and all that good stuff but now I can't get the squirrel cage off the motor so I can send it out for a rebuild. Any ideas...

Just curious if anyone has any more info on this line. I'm just curious about it. We determined it's some kind of expansion or overflow venting line. I haven't had time to consult my chassis manual sorry. I saw a small pool under the car after some normal driving in good conditions and traced it...

The car runs great with it disconnected, great oomph and pedal response and no pinging so I will likely not replace it or attempt to get a new EGR valve on there. Reading the explanations and various experiences with regards to this was very informative. It's likely stuck open or closed and when...

Is there any benefit to running it aside from environmental benefits? And I'll have to look again but just looking at my picture it seems like I just undo a couple of bolts and slap a new one on much like a thermostat housing? And remove the golf tee and plug it in?

Removed the air cleaner for the first time today and just noticed this, are they supposed to be plugged into one another, and what are they? 360la 1973 Polara Thank you