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Here's the carb on my 68 fury wagon...idle screws face forward under float bowl...nothing was capped off...I'm the one who rebuilt it, swear it was original...when you said idles were plugged I assumed it was much newer

unfortunately the gasoline we buy today is not the gasoline that was available 50 years ago...in my experience it burns leaner, especially if it contains ethanol...and if it has a "non adjustable" carb that generally means it's from a year where they were trying to minimize emissions so it was...

your color looks a lot like Ford portofino blue...think it's a 94 color... a light metallic blue with a purple tint...I have a Chevy C10 I painted that color

if they're 3/8 bolts 30 is about right...if they're 5/16 more like 15...subject to how rusty they are

idk what law of physics is involved, but when a wire fries ,it starts at both ends and works its way to the middle...so pay attention to connectors as a source... poorly crimped connectors on your bypass could be the issue...these were the previous owners bulkhead repairs on my car...and I never...

yes...theoretically the "easy way" to pull the box (how it was done at the factory) would be to remove the entire dashboard...however, to do that ,the screws that hold the top of the dash to the cowl are buried under the windshield rubber...so the shield and rubber would have to come out...so...

ok, I have no idea what the proper finish was for a 60....my 68 had a suede finish and I got it from 877 4paint1...maybe he might know what's correct for your year

on your setup, the tubes on the firewall that your heater hoses attach to are a separate piece from the heater core and are sealed to it by O rings...there is also an ''h valve " in the box that bypasses part of the core when the a/c is on....this valve attaches to the core with 2 short rubber...

you need the HP smoke if you upgrade to a higher amp alternator

the non a/c heater core won't fit in the a/c heater box...and the job of pulling out the box is pretty awful...so removing it and putting in a non a/c box temporarily isn't something i'd be eager to do

68's would have an extra accent line through them and wouldn't work on a 67

If it was in front of me I'd pull all the belts and run it briefly...that will eliminate all accessory noises and let you hear the engine itself...I agree that thing sounds like a cement mixer

over here that car would be advertised as ''rust free''....all the areas that snow get massive amounts of rock salt poured on the roads all winter to try to melt everything, coastal areas flood in high tides and idiots drive through the water...anything with no actual holes anywhere is...

Harmon Classic brakes in Georgia sells rebuild kits but they're close to 200 for the kits...and You tube videos of how to rebuild them are pretty much nonexistant

back in the day I used the ''correct'' deep cycle batteries on my RV...they failed a lot and only had a one year guarantee...so I switched to normal automotive batteries because the ones I was using had a 5 yr pro rated waranty...another thing to consider is a solar trickle charger...the VW...

I'm looking too and recently posted the same question...I previously used Resto Trim in New York...they advertised in Hemmings back in the day and I was lucky that they were local to me when I lived up there...the guy who's shop he worked out of just told me he died during covid...he recommended...

Got a couple wheel arch moldings that need some dings removed and to be polished...was heading to New York for a wedding so I called Resto Trim ( they did a load of stuff for me in the past when I lived up there) only to find out he died during covid....I live in North Carolina now ....anybody...

if its a points system , no ECU...the ballast resistor is there to reduce the voltage to the coil to prevent it from overheating...it is bypassed during cranking (full 12v to coil) for a temporary hotter spark while trying to get the car to initally fire up...this may have been done in whatever...

the entire situation is only as good as the skill level of your mechanic...in the 80's I had a new 600cfm Holley on a 350 in my tow truck...what I experienced was that even with floats set correctly, over time the fuel level in the secondaries would rise to the point that it would flood, dump...