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I've read somewhere that REM makes the perforated roof panels but you have to buy them from a REM dealer...and most of those dealers don't bother to list them on their websites...haven't actually searched for them myself so I could be wrong

sorry...hit the shop and the pad's still on it, the cowl's piled a foot deep and the shield hasn't been cleaned since own it (about 15 years...)definitely didn't have time today to attack it

got it if I make it down to the shop today...

eye level shot or down through the windshield?

i have another parts car with the pad off if you need a specific angle

Here's my 68 during paint...should be the same

sometimes I'll google my own poor description and see if it comes up on a forum or vendors site...or search images to see if I can find one of what I want...you could just post a "what is this called"picture here...

welcome to the wonderful world of C Bodies...there really is very little reproduced for our cars and much of what's out there only exists because it also fits the 6 figure models...and half the guys selling those parts don't realize that they interchange....step one is figuring out the factory...

lots of times they are the victims of tow truck operators hooking up to them...they are pretty soft and you can usually bend them back straight...

stupid answer...depends on what year car...most of the stuff out there that fits other mopars and everyone carries don't fit slab sides...i think Quirey Quality in Pa is the only one that makes the slab ones....page 24 of Gary Goers pdf (page itself marked 22)

I'd contact Instrument Services Inc in Illinois...815 316 2921...the kit I put in my 68 23 yrs ago still works

NOT a GM...advance springs and weights are located under the breaker plate and distributor would need to be disassembled to have access to them...if you grab the rotor you should be able to twist it a bit (like maybe 1/4 to 1/2 an inch at the tip) and when released it should spring back to its...

update...used the little vacuum pump...pulled the air out fine...seemed once fluid got into the wheel cylinders it really couldn't pull fluid out the bleeders very well...I think it was sucking air in through the bleeder screw threads...so I really couldn't flush out the amount of fluid that I...

FuryGT on here was asking over 20 grand for his stroker 68 fury...I know it sold but no idea whether he came down in price...oops just saw that he already commented on it...

I've had small stuff done like an antenna bezel ($50) and Sport Fury seat medallions ($30 each)...chrome shop did all prep work ...pits generally get ground out and filled with layers of copper before final buffing and plating so anything you do yourself might work against you...I would assume a...

also bought the mity-vac a couple years ago to test the vacuum actuators when rebuilding my a/c heater core box...just installed a sure grip, used the vacuum pump to suck the old fluid out of the master, then put it on the rear bleeders to get the fluid out of the lines...that way I was able to...

the hydro lock could be fuel...a compression test with a pressure tester on radiator could show water leak, or running the engine and using one of the testers that use a dye to change color when it senses combustion gas in the radiator can pick up small leaks that other methods can't...tf you...

too large in diameter or too wide?

I originally got gasket kits from Polar Bear Inc in Florida...800 365 3516....then after I needed additional hard parts (crank and pistons) those came with gasket sets too and wound up using a mix of the sets...mine used the large front bearing (not the 205 that everyone sells, thats for the...

ah , figures...they have them for a 65 but not my 68...