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Just for the record I did not tape the threads when doing my install. I taped the tube as a cautionary step when I used the pipe wrench to prevent damage.

You probably already did this but chase the threads in the block and hit them with some blaster first. I put some tape on the tube where I used the pipe wrench to prevent scoring. It'll go in, last couple turns are tight.

That's what I had to do with my 400. It was a about 1/4" too long. Took some wrenching to get it in far enough.

Very nice job and some good wrenching, I might add! Great idea also.

Call Jim Dowell at Racer Brown. He will grind you what you need.

That's been proven to be a myth. Go to the 440 Source website. The have a really comprehensive article on Mopar B/RB blocks. Basically there are no "thin wall" blocks.

Back to the OP, what's your definition on a "good deal" on a Dana 60? It's common knowledge what they sell for and you'd be way ahead to flip that and invest into your existing 83/4 with alot less work. Big Newpy don't need no Dana lol

That's a very cool build, but big money to get those numbers.

Summed up beautifully. Can't argue with straight forward facts.

I'd build the bottom end on that motor. Mopar cast cranks are good for 500 hp. You going to be limited by the iron heads your using anyway and you'll be able to stay within that budget.

So the motorhome 440 you mentioned that your machinist has isn't a complete short block?

With your self described budget of 4 grand and parts , I'd build a 440 short block.

I know it! 11 second C bodies are no joke!

Hmm, alot of info exchanged on this thread. All good technical, experienced knowledge shared by great wrenches. At the end of the day, personal choice here, I would never waste my time or money stroking a 383 to get 438 c.i. just to get a '440' For one the block architecture in a 383 isn't that...

I just swapped out my '741 single track with a '742 SG.. All the 8 3/4 pigs interchange, (in the housing). Its not that complicated, took 2 hours. Some guys can do it alot faster

$300-$800 depending on the pig number. Ive scored deals cheaper on a few occasions but find the best one you can and, like Dematt said, spend the cash and have it freshened up.

Call Jim Dowell at Racer Brown (410)866-7660 take the guess work out of it and let an actual cam grinder make the right cam for your application. He knows Mopar like few others and he's a great guy to deal with, keeps odd hours so call after 2:00 EST

You could do a stock '72 short block with a little bowl work on your heads with a good valve job and a mild cam and it'll work real good. 9.1 is max on the "gas" we have today.

definately if they're a good deal snag them up..

One of the few times when the phrase " to much head" would be applicable...