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Only if the low and high bulbs are on the same fuse. I thought of that when I converted mine to relays. Separate fuses in case one blows you have a backup. And always keep spares in the glove box. It also helps to use the plastic tubing to shield the wires from chafing. Low cost insurance...

Any battery mounted inside the vehicle needs to be vented to the exterior. The fumes from a charging battery can be toxic. Gen 3 Challengers use a battery mounted in the trunk. They have a vent tube exiting through the floor for this reason.

I was going to suggest the bulkhead connector. My headlights did this years ago and when the connector was separated the low beam terminal was nearly gone. Corrosion is common in the bulkhead area. Zero weatherproofing.

I believe the regulator is mounted externally on the back of the alternator. It should be possible to replace it if necessary instead of tossing the expensive alternator.

I use a fuse instead of a link. And keep spares in the vehicle. Easier to repair on the side of the road. Fuse size depends on the accessories you have added over the years. The headlight relay upgrade is an excellent addition. The lights are much brighter when they get full alternator voltage...

The fan and A/C use the same fuse. It does look like there was some monkey business with the wiring at some point. An aftermarket radio is a red flag that the wiring was messed with. I suggest looking at the back side of the fuse panel. There could be some additional wiring added that is...

The emergency button is on your cell phone. If your vehicle had the flasher option there would be a large switch below the steering column. Yes, it was an option in 66. It is a simple matter to add this if you can find a car with it to grab the switch and portion of the wiring harness. The...

If the noise is there with the engine not running it's not the alternator or the condenser you're contemplating replacing. Check the station with a good radio in a different car. if it also has issues it's the station. Otherwise it's something in the antenna path.

Fire wall connection. A common culprit when voltage tanks inside the vehicle when a significant load is placed on the system (i.e. power windows). Disconnect the connectors under the hood and look at them carefully, any corrosion should be cleaned up. Discolored terminals are a clear indicator...

The yellow wire definitely looks like it has issues. Try delcity.net. Look for Packard 56 connectors. I suggest replacing all of them. And the blue crimped butt splice connectors are not a good idea. These along with soldering and heat shrink tubing are much more reliable: Use wire of...

The flasher switch connects all the turn signal wires together and uses a separate flasher to make them blink. It can be the problem. But I would also check the wires to the switch. They could be disconnected. My vehicle is a 66 New Yorker. The style of the switch may be different but the...

A slight variation to the firewall bypass is to get a fuse holder for a 50-60 amp fuse. Install in the wire between the battery and starter relay. It's a bit more convenient to replace a common fuse (keep spares in the glovebox) vs replacing a fusible link. The factory did it that way because it...

That is what I did. bought the terminals on ebay. Took a little more than an hour to replace them. They were rusted really bad. When done the voltage drop across them dropped dramatically. i.e. the fire hazard was greatly diminished. Take photos while disassembling the box. It will help later...

I have an electric fan too. The only issue I've found is it runs whenever the key is on and the temp is hot enough. Doesn't help with starting to have a ~30 amp load active while trying to start the engine. I am planning on adding a relay that will disable the fan enable when the starter is...

I was planning on designing a circuit with a small processor to flash the brake lights several times when the brake pedal is stepped on. Several different patterns should be possible. My Chrysler T&C has it for the third brake light, was installed by the dealer. These bulbs are what is needed...

The ammeter immediately shows a drain from the battery if the alternator goes south. That depends on if you ever look at it. I would rather see an idiot light added to the mix to alert you when you're not paying attention. Same with an oil pressure gauge. A voltmeter doesn't indicate a problem...

if you had a bad ground at the tank you wouldn't have 48 ohms at the gauge. I don't believe that is the problem. The fuel gauge is connected through a rectangular connector located near the ammeter. I have plugged it in incorrectly before. Investigate that connection. The solid stare regulator...

Had this happen about 30 years ago. I was able to tug on the main power feed from the battery to the starter while jumping the relay. Don't pull hard or you will yank the terminal off the end of the wire. I was able to start the car for months this way. The good old broke college student days...

When I removed the regulator from the instrument cluster I noticed an adjustment on the underside. Turning it allows you to set the gauge. Start with a full tank and adjust if necessary. You will need to remove and install it several times to do this. Make sure to turn off the key when doing...

Not sure if you have tried this but, is the gas tank grounded? There is a strap that goes across the little piece of rubber hose at the sending unit. If it is not there your gauge will read empty all the time. If you lost it you can run a wire from the tank to the frame. Don't drill a hole...