No rear hazard lights..

Stargazer

Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2019
Messages
150
Reaction score
190
Location
the Netherlands
Guys,

1969 Chrysler 300;

direction blinkers work like they should, front and rearside, left and right.
But hazardlights only work on the frontside.
Before I start ripping things apart, what could be the problem?
The hazard switch itself?
 
Is that necessary John, since they do blink when choosing direction? Left or right.
You can be returning ground or partial ground through the tail lights filaments.

Its an easy place to start, a test wire(s) with alligator clips should be in everyone's toolbox.

With electrical issues, always look at and test the easiest stuff first.
 
You can be returning ground or partial ground through the tail lights filaments.

Its an easy place to start, a test wire(s) with alligator clips should be in everyone's toolbox.

With electrical issues, always look at and test the easiest stuff first.
Allright I will try that this week.
 
In agreement with Big John, it has been my long experience that poor or non-exsistant grounds cause the majority of "weird" electrical problems in automotive circuits. Remember that electricity follows the path of least resistance. An extra ground will never hurt. Learned this through frustration over a half century ago! Lindsay
 
If you have brake lights and you have determined that the ground is not the issue, the 4 way flasher switch is probably bad. Try applying the 4 way and jiggle the switch to see if you get rear lights momentarily. This would be a sign the internal contacts in the switch are bad.

Dave
 
If you have brake lights and you have determined that the ground is not the issue, the 4 way flasher switch is probably bad. Try applying the 4 way and jiggle the switch to see if you get rear lights momentarily. This would be a sign the internal contacts in the switch are bad.

Dave
Good you mention brake lights Dave. I forgot to say that the brake lights do work. As do the taillights. And the direction lights left and right.

I just pulled the hazard flasher, and “bypassed” the connector with a wire. Now, when you activate the hazardlights switch on the cluster, still no hazardlights in the rear. Both front Hazard/direction lights light up and stay up. As should be espected when flasher is bypassed.

I ordered some electrical tools to check for bad grounds ect.

I will also need to find a 69 Chrysler electrical schematic.

Thanks for the tips guys!
 
I might be able to help you out with that wiring diagram....

But how about showing some pictures of your new acquisition first, like you promised in your previous thread :poke:
 
Good you mention brake lights Dave. I forgot to say that the brake lights do work. As do the taillights. And the direction lights left and right.

I just pulled the hazard flasher, and “bypassed” the connector with a wire. Now, when you activate the hazardlights switch on the cluster, still no hazardlights in the rear. Both front Hazard/direction lights light up and stay up. As should be espected when flasher is bypassed.

I ordered some electrical tools to check for bad grounds ect.

I will also need to find a 69 Chrysler electrical schematic.

Thanks for the tips guys!
The best electrical schematics are found in the factory service manual. All others can be suspect or not have the detail.

Service Manuals – MyMopar has a 69 Plymouth that should be close, but get the right one when you can. I suggest the CD versions from Home Page . The CD versions let you print out the pages you need and I often highlight the circuit I'm working on.

Next, the best ground problem detection tool is a piece of # 12 wire with an alligator clip on each end. While a multimeter is a great tool, and I always suggest having one, it can also show continuity when the circuit will still fail under load. A voltage drop test using a multimeter can detect bad circuits, but that's difficult for many to understand or perform and a clipped on wire accomplishes the same thing.
 
Well I wanted to wait with photo’s untill I got some other wheels under it. Current ones are not really my style. I figure most here don’t like them. But then again, who cares. Here some pics..

9A14EC72-8007-44AE-81DA-352F921BAF08.jpeg


92675620-79CF-4737-805C-24C044492CEA.jpeg


9724ADE2-B656-4815-947B-1B2DD0FB7656.jpeg
 
The best electrical schematics are found in the factory service manual. All others can be suspect or not have the detail.

Service Manuals – MyMopar has a 69 Plymouth that should be close, but get the right one when you can. I suggest the CD versions from Home Page . The CD versions let you print out the pages you need and I often highlight the circuit I'm working on.

Next, the best ground problem detection tool is a piece of # 12 wire with an alligator clip on each end. While a multimeter is a great tool, and I always suggest having one, it can also show continuity when the circuit will still fail under load. A voltage drop test using a multimeter can detect bad circuits, but that's difficult for many to understand or perform and a clipped on wire accomplishes the same thing.
I do have the 69 Plymouth manual!
And ordered alligator clip wires!
 
90 percent sure it's the flasher switch in the dash. Probably one of the least expensive switches. I've rebuilt 100s of them (B and C bodies).
You MAY get it working with a shot of WD40 through the knob opening (switch removed from dash)
 
90 percent sure it's the flasher switch in the dash. Probably one of the least expensive switches. I've rebuilt 100s of them (B and C bodies).
You MAY get it working with a shot of WD40 through the knob opening (switch removed from dash)
I will give that a try as well. There is another cluster on the way, anyway. With switch!
 
I have this problem on a 67 newport. Except my left front hazzard light wont work but the other 3 do. But this light works with the signal and park lights
 
I have this problem on a 67 newport. Except my left front hazzard light wont work but the other 3 do. But this light works with the signal and park lights
I didn’t remove the cluster yet, but did spend alot of time trying to understand the electrical diagram. And am pretty sure the problem is in the flasher switch, or the direction switch.
 
The flasher switch connects all the turn signal wires together and uses a separate flasher to make them blink. It can be the problem. But I would also check the wires to the switch. They could be disconnected. My vehicle is a 66 New Yorker. The style of the switch may be different but the function is the same. The switch is spliced into the wiring coming from the turn signal switch. Make sure the connections are not loose there either. Flashers were an option in 66, not sure about 67.
 
The flasher switch connects all the turn signal wires together and uses a separate flasher to make them blink. It can be the problem. But I would also check the wires to the switch. They could be disconnected. My vehicle is a 66 New Yorker. The style of the switch may be different but the function is the same. The switch is spliced into the wiring coming from the turn signal switch. Make sure the connections are not loose there either. Flashers were an option in 66, not sure about 67.
That all makes sense John. When I start digging, I will check all these things. Thanks.
 
Well guys it took awhile, pulled the complete dashcluster out to refurbish it. And tackle multiple electrical problems.
The “flasher switch” was the problem. Very dirty contacts. A bit of sanding and cleaning solved that problem. Hazard lights all around!

I did the same with the “fan speed switch”. Works like it should now.

Made the Ammeter bypass on the backside of the meter.

Cleaned all contacts on and to cluster. Switches and dimmerswitch.
And changed all bulbs.

Two strange things however,
the bulbs “seat belt warning light”, and “door ajar light” or on constantly, even without ignition key inserted?!
Removed the bulbs to “resolve” that problem ;-)

And the direction lights blink maybe once or twice when activating its lever on colomn. Then nothing, flasher is quiet. Put in another flasher, same result.
Could this be because of the steering colomn being lowered, thus bad ground? A extra wire from colomn to body gave no result…

20220615_153602.jpg


20220608_223832.jpg
 
Back
Top