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So, when will the question be answered? What is the factory determined red line for a 78 440? As it came from the factory, where would Chrysler mark the tach? Not where you could spin it to depending on x, y or z. Where would the tach be marked on a factory unit if it had one?

Cam Break-in was high idle of 2000 RPM for 20 minutes. Reason for high idling is to heat up and temper the cam & lifters. Huh? The factory doesn't heat up and temper their materials?

The V-10 is only six inches longer than the LA engine its based on.

Check this out! Viper V10-Powered Valiant Ute

Not quite. Zinc has been found to ruin cat cons over time. That is why it was reduced. Zinc isn't just for LIFTERS (if they are tapping you have a huge problem). Zinc is the last line of defense wherever there are two pieces of metal coming together, especially bearings.

You're right. I can't remember the paint, but Moto Guzzi had a number of porous castings years ago. The fix was painting the inside of the casting.

Time for a stroker crank!

Sounds like float level out of adjustment or has fuel inside the float.

Don't forget to install the vacuum advance hose.

As mentioned a dual plane intake and small 4bbl works wonders. Dual exhaust-Not 3" dia pipes- that will kill the low end. The mileage/rv cam would do a lot. If you go that route pull the heads and rebuild them along with a little port smoothing. Remember you want an engine that makes...

Here is a thought... I had a 92 Spirit with the 2.5 4 popper. On a trip if I kept the speed down the temp was fine. If I went faster the gauge would go to the top of the normal range. Got home and could find nothing wrong. Then I heard bubbling. Removed the rad cap and it got louder. Took it to...

Clean it up, let it dry and spray it with an aerosol foot powder or the like. Oil shows up real well on that white powder.

Thinking outside the box and inside the tank how about getting the pump out of a 92 up Dakota and take it and the tank to a radiator shop or the like and have them modify the tank for the pump? Then get the ECU from the same truck and install it. You can keep the multiport injection and use all...

Fill the float bowl with gas. With the fuel line hooked up start the engine. The full bowl will have hopefully unstuck the float if it was stuck and will run long enough to get the pump to get fuel to the carb. If it still dies ya know ya have a bad pump....or carb float, needle and seat. Or...

Everything I can find says a 3.73 was available. You could even get a 5.57. No 3.09.

Every 361 I ever drove ran really well. They were al 4 speeds so back then they had a different cam than the autos. I had a 72 400 Polara cop car and that was a darn good running car. They weren't dogs by any means. Had a 72 400 2bbl Monaco that was no slouch but it liked gas stations.

Synthetic will not soften seals. If it did the seals would work better. What happens is the molecules of the oil are linear and get past old seals easier. If it happens go back to dino. In my bikes I use Red Line shock proof heavy 90-140, aka strawberry milk shake. Used it in the race car quick...

PCV valve? (If on L side)

It meets GL4 specs. If that rear calls for that oil Bob's yer uncle.

Who says you can't go back to dino oil after using synthetic?