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If your buying any reman over the counter pump.... NO No need for a regulator. Majority of Holley needle/seats operate fine up to psi. It's the poorly designed Carter/Weber needle/seat that has issue's with anything over 5.5psi as well as large pot holes You haven't mentioned what the problem...

91 or 93 is fine. The to engine life & exhaust valve seats is lubricant. Since the lead is missing you want to Add TCW-3 2-stroke oil to the dry fuel of today. The best place to start is 4gal of gas to 1 Oz of oil... It's a well known secret that was figured out about 15-16 year's ago. It even...

Nope that rotating mass is ineffective (unless we're 7000rpm+). By using the 400 block it has a 4.34" bore size increased over the 383's 4.25" Large bore with a long rod & shorter stroke = High Rod Ratio which = RPM loving combo. Camshaft will be most crucial to determine powerband window... It...

The 512 will be AWESOME with the 400 block. Many don't even require minor clearance. I have 3 on the street. 1 has been together for 8 year's. Spend the extra $300 & do a hydraulic roller. I Highly recommend Schneider Racing or Cam Motion... No oiling issues ever either. I'd call A & A...

Comp cam & MOPAR = NO THANKS Chrysler & AMC use a very large lifter base which is much heavier than the bandwagon GM & Ford's. That being said there's manufacturers that specialize in MOPAR power. Comp is not 1. I'd call Schneider, Cam Motion, or Bullet... Comp uses many blanket grinds across...

Weber bought out Carter & hence why until just a few years ago All the Edelbrock carbs had WEBER cast into the main body due to patten. The Carter AVS was a HUGE improvement from the AFB in the secondary transition tuning. Then once Edelbrock took over they have dropped quality. I sold Carter...

No remans. I'm speaking of their New annular minor update that offered. They have been being drop shipped directly from Edelbrock. They are so bad now we've gotten 2 aluminum heads with oil drain holes missing. AFTER waiting 9 month's for back order. Talk about a Joke!

They are Holrrible for keeping float adjustment. As it was a poor design Weber made. IF your aggressively driving with any of this cornering that "factory" fuel level is on the high side as the minor baffle plate they have doesn't do much. Secondly what's the fuel pressure? Anything over 5.5psi...

MAKE SURE you Open the Edelbrock carb & not only set the float (gets banged up in shipping) but inspect the jets. We've had Nothing but problem since they were bought out & moved production south... Some will come with cross threaded jets, other's have had aluminum shavings inside still. Quality...

Been using these for 27 Year's now! Have 1 in my Sport Fury that blows off deep in the 10's on a Big 29×11.5 M & H cheater slick. Also have many in 4x4 off road stuff. Only had 1 customer complain about the clicking. BUT his car had $600 of sound dampening as well... Unless your running stock...

Unless it's a GM engine or a custom ground cam to match Your engine I'd NEVER choose a Comp branded shelf grind for Any MOPAR. I build & tune for a living & have spent the last 18 year's on the dyno with 12 year's before that at the largest speed shop we had here... People get confused with the...

Rocker shafts installed wrong. Oil filter needs burped. And dealing with all the other unknowns off your postings DEFINITELY Needs to be primed with a drill anyways... Summit or Jegs you'll have it in a couple days.

What's total timing set at? The factory tune of the A/F ratio is not close to optimum. Are the metering rods & jets factory still or has it ever been professionally tuned? Have you ever been in the secondaries & shut the engine off... Coasted off the side of the road & pulled plugs to see IF...

Sounds like your referring to adjusting the idle air mixture screws... Those have Nothing to do with running rich above 1000rpm. Washing the rings won't cause it to smoke this soon. But you can spend 10 min Google'ing "washing rings" & "why to never break in a engine rich" to learn exactly what...

Well hopefully you haven't washed the rings by running it pig rich for so long. You definitely want to hurry & change that gas oil as your never gonna be able to properly seat the rings with that broken down oil... What rings & pistons did this 440 get? What fuel pump are you using? And we use...

Your wasting time even being concerned about initial timing #... Only thing that truly matters is the Total timing. Which you want between 34°-38°. You mentioned the cam. I'm 97% sure your using a flat tappet not a hydraulic roller. That being said I'm praying for your cam as you NEVER allow it...

Unless you live in BFE & have miles & miles to cruise @ 130mph I'd definitely change that rear gear as you'll be missing 1 of the huge advantages of doing a T-56 swap.... And unless you've become use to shifting a Tremec versus a old school 4 speed DEFINITELY swap out shifter!! NOT just for the...

Your vacuum advance is hooked up backwards to the wrong port SPECIALLY in the AZ heat.... And you'd see a HUGE improvement in driveability & power with a Holley based carb. That Weber/Edelbrock is not a good choice in the any warm climate as they barely hold any fuel so it's surely preheating...

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