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I don't understand what you mean here. If you are using a multi meter and putting the leads across the fuse, you will just measure voltage drop; which will read almost nothing (~a mV). If you want to see if you are getting voltage at the fuse, then you need to put one lead of you meter on an...

Wow. I had no clue. Do you happen to know the reasoning behind this? I suppose it's the way the Venturi is set up? Thanks for the info! :thumbsup:

I guarantee you will notice a difference when you put the proper CFM carb on an engine. There is a science behind it. BTW, I think the TQ is a fine carb, it is just way too big for this engine.

The first thing I said was that the ThermoQuad was a poor choice. If by "chokes up" you mean "backfires", this sounds like a lean condition upon acceleration. It is possible that your accelerator pump is not functioning correctly. If you mean it "bogs", then that is quite possibly due to the...

I run RJ12YC's on my 383. Any reason you are choosing the Bouchillon over the Pertronix system?

Not trying to sound like a jerk, but - does it need to be replaced? If so, yes, if not, no. You should certainly go over it and check to see if any individual wires need to be replaced.

That looks awesome!

Check your centrifugal advance. Unhook your vacuum advance, and idle up your engine under a timing light. You'll want to see about 20° advance by 2,000 RPM (to a total of about 36°). Check to see if your timing is bouncing around as you accelerate as well. If it is, that means a spring is at...

You may want to add "I do not own the rights to the music in this video etc, etc." to your description so you don't get a copyright strike.

Just a note, if you do get it running right, do not adjust the time via the adjustment stem. It will actually change the clock's running speed, and cause it to run fast or slow depending on the way you turn it. The best way to adjust the time is to disconnect the battery overnight and plug it...

You never want the battery to be grounded while working on it.

This is a problem when my alter*ator went bad.

I love my Ignitor III. In our experience, the Ignitor has heat problems (on a roadtrip, it would die after reaching a certain temp over, and over again) and will burn up if you leave the key in the ignition position without the engine running.

Aha! Just tried it. You're right.

I have tried everything, but nothing I do will get it to turn on. I believe it's the "check brakes" light for when you run low on brake fluid.

I'm not sure. I'll check when I take it to school in the morning.

Let me go check my '67. I'll edit this post with my findings. Edit: My '67 has inlaid turn signals as pictured: Behind the dash there are two plugs that connect to the signals, so I'm not sure what happened to yours. Maybe they broke at one point and the owner never bothered to fix it. Sorry...

Maybe a connection loosened on the way over? That's what happened to us with our '55 F500.

Bad ground? Bad alternator?

You can get reproduction spark plug wires. NOS distributor caps are easy to find as well.