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I was upgrading my 1965 727 from the small input shaft to the later design when I did the rebuild. I needed this in order to get a newer design torque converter because you really can't but the old ones anymore and I wanted to up the stall speed a bit. I searched for a low mileage motor home 727...

Here is what I bought for my rebuild. My mailbox is empty now. Didn’t have any idea it was full!

I rebuilt my 727 last winter. I will have to dig thru some paperwork to find who I bought from. Im very satisfied with the parts and price. Update I purchased from Norcal Trasmission. They had everything I wanted. I can send you a list of parts if you want.

Not running often can make these issues hard to diagnose. I think it's seals on the valve stem myself but who knows!! It could be smoking on accel, tho you can't see it with all of the air blowing around the car. You can have someone follow you to look at the pipes as you accelerate to see what...

I have other plans for the car including a power upgrade. So some extra burnout may be in store. I decided to order some shims to to have the option if needed.

Thanks to all of you for the comments!! Seems like putting it back together as is the best route. I do wonder what the original clearance was. Thanks again, jon

I have a cone type Sure Grip (3.23 ratio) apart to look it over before installing into my '66 Fury III. All parts look good and the cones have not bottomed out in the case. I measured the clearance (with hard wax) between cone face and bottom of the case and have right about 0.040" thousandths...

Doug, regarding the electric fan, are you having cooling issues? If so there are a few things to check. Take a look and make sure you have a fan shroud. If not get one or make one. If you have a clutched fan? Make sure the clutch is freewheeling when cold and the locking up when the temps...

If you have Motor Trend, check out this episode of Engine Masters: "Engine Masters" Oil Filter Shootout (TV Episode 2021) - IMDb The found the K&N white filter to be much better than anything else.

Just a data point; I have used the ProMaxx heads on 2-350 chevys and they are very nicely made, with good parts. They needed very little work on the ports to match them up with the intake.

Checking the fluid is number 1. Hot at idle in neutral. If the level is good, then change the fluid and filter, adjust the bands. This "might" help. The cold to hot issue could just be wear in the trans that once warm it seals better. You're probably looking at a rebuild to fully cure the issue.

Thanks for that info. I was thinking that the cone style would take a different type that a clutch type posi.

I have one to put in my Fury this spring. What kind of friction modifier is needed?

Excellent work!! More pics of the machined parts if you have them?

You and me both!! 10:1 compression and a decent cam shaft should make plenty of street powah :thumbsup:

If it's the Hemi look you want and not the pure performance of the engine, then a Gen 1 engine will give you that in a smaller package. I just dropped my 354 block and crank at the machine shop for some work. The 354 will go in my '66 Fury Wagon in place of the 318 Poly there now.

The parts manual is a godsend. Funny they call them "insulators" that is a good description but not the term usually used; trans mount.

The Thumper cams sound very cool and I just installed one in my 83 C10 rebuilt 350. Be careful which one you choose, the Mother Thumper in the 350 doesn't make enough vacuum to operate the power brakes at idle. I knew this going in so I had a vacuum pump on hand to cure the issue.

Change the fluid and filter. While doing this adjust the bands as well. Easy to do and will adjust for wear. I just rebuilt my 727. It was my first rebuild and was pretty easy with the shop manual. I used no special tools but I have a very well equipped home shop. The rebuild works great and I’m...

You may learn to LOVE your wagon!