Everything should come out from the rear, just as with a normal one-piece driveshaft. You can unbolt the carried bearing mount, noting any shims which might be between it and the chassis/body mounting bracket. This is how things normally work with two-piece driveshafts.
If you have no factory service manual, look at
www.mymopar.com and/or
www.jholst.net for one.
The center carrier bearing should be isolated by a rubber ring around it. The bearing should "snap" into it. Inspect that rubber for age-related issues and seek a new one if it does not come as a pair.
ALSO note any water deflectors which would be on both sides of the bearing! When removing the bearing, they normally separate. These deflectors are KEY to the bearing's longevity.
We have a '69 Chevy 8' bed 1/2 ton pickup with a two-piece driveshaft. Every so often, it would need a new carrier bearing, kind of like u-joints as a "maintenance item". One time, an "experienced" older dealership mechanic threw them away as the front deflector had become bent (from things encountered in the field, checking on cattle), it had contacted the rubber, rubbing a hole in it, so he said "It's a sealed bearing, you don't need them." As he was "the expert" . . . until it needed a new bearing a year later. When the plastic shields (between the bearing parts) were removed, the "sealed" bearing appeared to be full of sand. So much for "sealed bearings". New deflectors were ordered and installed. They are there for a reason, as we learned.
DO put some visible marks on the tailshaft housing, the rear axle yoke, and all shaft and center-shaft ends, so they can be reassembled and installed in the same rotational orientation.
Doing the u-joints at this time is a good move. With a quality carrier bearing and quality u-joints, well-lubed, things should last many more miles and years.
As to u-joints, the normal orientation is to get the lubeable ones. Many OEM joints were solid internally. No lube channels. Max-effort drag racers perferred them for their strength. For a street vehicle of standard horsepower, the lubeable items make more sense, even if the internal lube channels might weaken them a bit. But the lower power output of a stock engine should not tax them. Just buy a quality brand.
Just some thoughts and experiences,
CBODY67
