1965 Newport Paint

dammstrate

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Continuation of some discussion on another thread, but this is paint specific. I have spent a bit of time going through posts (yes, also the paint sticky), and there is a lot of information, but not a lot of DO THIS, or DONT DO THIS, a lot of "it depends". So, my case....

My car is originally FF-1 Mist Blue, and was repainted a bit ago (unknown) some nice blue color that I don't know what it is. Clearly not re-painted Mist Blue, as you can see the original color in the engine bay and part of the door jambs. I will be taking it back to the original Mist Blue. I want a good #2 job, not a 100pt resto. Seems Laquer is not recommended, although that's the original type, yes? I don't want a BC/CC, as that looks artificial vs. what these cars used to look like back in the 60s. Then theres the primer, etch, etc. etc. etc.

What would people recommend? Some kind of polyurethane Imron type product? Can it be matched well to the original?

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Axalta, which I believe is the brand that superseded/bought DuPont's automotive paint business, still has a "single-stage" acrylic enamel paint product. GM used acrylic lacquer paint as Ford and Chrysler used acrylic enamel paint, only. In general, many body shops liked to use acrylic lacquer as it was less picky about having to have a completely "clean" spray area, with any "trash" usually being able to be buffed-out after it dried. I always liked the acrylic enamel paint (the old DuPont Centauri in particular) for its hard shine. Even slicker and harder if "hardener" was added to the paint, back then. Great durability, too.

Using the old paint formulas can be very problematic, as there have been many changes in the paint pigments over the decades since that original OEM panit was sprayed. Which brings in the newer computerized color analysis items. To get to the orig color via the current pigment selections.

It could well be that the re-spray paint was a "close match" color from another car brand or model year? Or a "stock color" of a particular paint brand?

EACH paint brand usually has their various surface prep items, prep methods, primers/surfacers/sealers that are matched to the desired "top coats" of color. Can't forget the basic "thinning agents" for the various temperatures at which the spraying happens! Which relates to how "fast" the paint dries or if it sprayed "too dry".

MANY painters, over their years of experience, know what works best for THEM, though. Which "thinners" they can get (usually for less money) that work as well as the "suggested" ones from the various paint brands. Same with primers/sealers/surfacers.

I concur that BC/CC paint just does not look "right" on cars that it did not come on. Too shiny, to me. BUT that is also what every "modern" painter has shot for years, so they know how to do it well.

As for "quality", as the current BC/CC paint systems usually produce a paint shine and slickness that far exceeds what any of the prior "custom" paint used to yield, NO need to even get close to the "I'm going to show this car" conversation! My recommendation is to just ask for the current OEM-level of paint results (which should be what they are used to doing on the newer cars anyway). This will usually mean a heated and ventilated spray booth situation, with great "dust control". Surface prep has to be better, too, than it was in the single-stage times. AND, BC/CC is acrylic enamel, not lacquer.

When IMRON was introduced, one of their selling points was that you could spray it onto aluminum foil, let it dry, and then crinkle-up the foil. The paint stayed stuck, no breaks or cracks. BUT it required a haz-mat suit for the painter to wear, due to the isocyanines in the paint! So only fleets like UPS and similar used those paints for long-term durability, back then. In the current world, plus their limited color choices back then, probably no need for that paint in the consumer market any more, to me.

THEN came "HVLP" spray equipment. High Volume Low Pressure, so less over-spray resulted. Plus automated "Spray Gun Cleaning Stations". No more running thinner through the gun to clean it out, spraying into the open air to do that.

I'm NOT a painter, but have followed the various paint changes over about 45+ years at the dealership and our body shop customers' shops. The professionals all make it look easy!

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
 
my local PPG dealer had formulas for my DD1 mist blue (68)...most body shop supply stores only carry one or 2 lines of paint so you may have to shop around...my Axalta dealer didn't have a formula for it but sometimes its a case of "somebody tore that page out of the old book"...there are places like Kolor Korrect (used to be Mopaint) that specialize in what should be the right colors...but not cheap...current urethane is essentially what Imron used to be...I think step one would be to figure out who is going to do the job and if you don't want to spend a million bucks let them use whatever line they are familiar with rather than handing them something and hoping for the best...shops also generally use one supplier and brand of paint with the compatible primers sealers etc in house so you may have to find a shop that shoots the brand you want...a good repaint may cost more than you bought the car for
 
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