1965 Plymouth Fury 4 Door Hardtop rebuild

ChrisBcream

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Hello (new to the forum)

I am restoring my great grandfather's 1965 plymouth fury 3.

So far I have stripped the car to body 100% (glass, trim, interior, etc removed)
Should be going to get blasted tomorrow.

I am planning on replacing the 318 poly with a big block so I have some questions....

Would it be easier to just use these: http://engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsYear/65cBodyBRB.html

Or should I try to find a stub frame that came with a big block (what cars, years, etc will bolt in to mine)?

Also looking for a rear end with a sure grip while I'm at this point in the build.
(Best place to find a 8-3/4 with sure grip that will bolt in?)

Thanks,
Chris
 
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Welcome! Are you dead set on a big block? 318 Poly's make amazing engines that can match or surpass any big block. I am building one right now. (The engine in the link is not ​mine).
http://www.hotrod.com/events/1510-vintage-mopar-power-550hp-chrysler-poly-318-v8-on-the-dyno/

Yea I plan to do a crate big block, I'm looking for reliable daily driver power.

Is there a difference between torqueflites for big and small blocks?

The idea of keeping the 318 is still an option. (Is it hard to find rebuild parts for it?) I would want 100% overhaul
 
Yea I plan to do a crate big block, I'm looking for reliable daily driver power.

Is there a difference between torqueflites for big and small blocks?

The idea of keeping the 318 is still an option. (Is it hard to find rebuild parts for it?) I would want 100% overhaul
Yes, 727's are different between big blocks and small blocks.
Gary Pavlovich is the 318 Poly guru, and would be more than happy to assist you in your rebuild. Most any parts you would need for a rebuild you can find.
Links:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/poly318.html
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...en-a-318-wide-block-and-a-regular-318.221211/
https://autoeducation101.wordpress.com/2013/03/19/318-a-poly-head-engine-resources-page/
They make both six pack and dual quad intakes for the 318 Poly.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar+Perform...ToXpHYvUY6NHsvtjMR2m-kpM3nzh4Wa6TKBoCb1_w_wcB
Hope these are helpful.
 
Well you have me thinking about keeping the 318. Would be easier for sure.

Is it hard to find replacement rubber motor mounts? Mine are destroyed.

Want to do disk brakes and upgraded shocks all the way around or at least in the front.

What years/models should I go for? Is there a rear disk kit available?

What shocks/companies are good replacements?
 
Well you have me thinking about keeping the 318. Would be easier for sure.

Is it hard to find replacement rubber motor mounts? Mine are destroyed.

Want to do disk brakes and upgraded shocks all the way around or at least in the front.

What years/models should I go for? Is there a rear disk kit available?

What shocks/companies are good replacements?
Not sure where you can find motor mounts, but I'm sure they are available.
Suspension:
http://www.firmfeel.com/c_body_mopar_parts.html
Brakes:
https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=100
 
There are many single year things found on 65 C bodies that you have to keep in mind..........
1965 big block cars used a single year only mount on the drivers side. Block is also drilled and tapped differently from other years, so a late 64 - mid 65 dated block has to be used unless you drill and tap a 66> block with the <65 mount boss cast into it .
They also use a unique transmission with cable shift and park linkage. This was because the 65 cars are transitional and use some carry over design elements, such as steering box placement and remnants of pushbutton transmissions. The motor mounts are available, but can be expensive. I have heard 68 - 72 big block A Bodies also used the same type motor mount on the drivers side, so that may be a place to look too.
 
Thanks. Yea its looking like keeping the original motor and trans will be easiest. The list of things that are hard to find keep adding up.

Rear glass seal
Motor mounts
Window seals
 
Nice to see a 4 door hardtop getting a second chance. Lots of potential with that car and with the poly.

This one in my 66 is built to 360 cubes and dyno'd at 392 hp.

Poly before
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and after
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Nice looking car man!

If you don't mind me asking who did the motor work and whats a ballpark number for that kind of power?
 
Nice looking car man!

If you don't mind me asking who did the motor work and whats a ballpark number for that kind of power?

http://www.moparmecca.com/default.html

Bill Richardson in VA did the work and he is much closer to you than me. In addition to the engine build and head work he also supplied a bunch of other stuff including intake/carb, 4 spd tranny, clutch & TO bearing, headers, etc so I didn't really get a price for rebuild only. Bill is very easy to deal with and I'm sure he would quote whatever you want. You can get radical like we read in some of these articles but I wanted a solid and reliable street cruiser like the poly is known for, but with some added poop. It runs 10:1 compression and I've only put about 800 miles on it since hitting the pavement this summer so still getting the feel of it. Terry
 
Thanks for the info!

Sent him an email.

Car is going to atlanta in the morning to get blasted to bare metal and epoxy primered.

They use the new dustless blasting so I'm excited to see how it comes out, I know I already have some cancer on the lower doors and fender but hopefully it comes back solid besides those.
 
So I'm searching for parts to gather for putting this back together and I still cannot find a rear window seal

Anyone know where to get a rear window seal for this car or one that will work from another car?
 
If you have an original in decent condition (not crumbled apart) you can look into having a mold made to reproduce it. We had Steele Rubber do this for some Studebaker rubber years back. I will say it's not cheap, but if it's something you have to have and can't find this is an option.
 
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