livininharrow
Senior Member
oh and by the way its canuck you moron.
Looks like you need spell lessons to " Canuck" bozo .He's a canook for cryin out loud, why would you expect anything less?
Dan do you have a link to a source for the two lines going from the MC downwards, as well as they brass block they go into? I'm converting my '66 single to 67/68 dual this summer and have heard about some brands (Inline Tube) not fitting correctly.I put one on from a 67 New Yorker on my 64 880. Did not even have to adjust the power brake booster push rod.
View attachment 589471
I made the lines, Napa and other stores sell the line. It has a green color to it and bends really easy I made the loops by just bending it around a big socket, the coil line protector you can buy from different sources. I just took the rear brake line fitting out of the original junction block and bent that line up and used a union fitting to connect the line to the master cylinder. I then plugged that opening in the junction block with a flare plug. Has been like this for years with no problems. I also could not find a junction block that would work.Dan do you have a link to a source for the two lines going from the MC downwards, as well as they brass block they go into? I'm converting my '66 single to 67/68 dual this summer and have heard about some brands (Inline Tube) not fitting correctly.
Thanks in advance!
So in theory you could almost just eliminate the junction block and just use two union fittings, one for front, one for rear, and custom bend your own lines from the MC down to where the junction block used to live, connecting to the front and rear. Just being sure to connect the line closest to the firewall to the front brakes and the line furthest from the firewall to the rear brakes. Right?I made the lines, Napa and other stores sell the line. It has a green color to it and bends really easy I made the loops by just bending it around a big socket, the coil line protector you can buy from different sources. I just took the rear brake line fitting out of the original junction block and bent that line up and used a union fitting to connect the line to the master cylinder. I then plugged that opening in the junction block with a flare plug. Has been like this for years with no problems. I also could not find a junction block that would work.
Keep the original junction block, remove the single line from the original master cylinder that goes to the junction block. Run one new line from the new dual master cylinder to that fitting this will be the front brakes, remove the line that feeds the rear brakes at the junction block bend it up and connect to the other new line with a junction. This way you only have one junction fitting. Plug the rear line fitting on the original block with a flare plug. Not sure if it matters on which port on the dual master cylinder the lines go. I would have to look on mine to see which goes were.So in theory you could almost just eliminate the junction block and just use two union fittings, one for front, one for rear, and custom bend your own lines from the MC down to where the junction block used to live, connecting to the front and rear. Just being sure to connect the line closest to the firewall to the front brakes and the line furthest from the firewall to the rear brakes. Right?
Front port goes to the rear brakes.Not sure if it matters on which port on the dual master cylinder the lines go.