Some sort of notched ruler?
1966 300 convertible help!!
- Thread starter 66chry300
- Start date
I'm thinking it has to be more accurate than that.
You've got a range of .005" and the standard ratio of gauge accuracy should be 4:1, meaning the gauge needs to be .001" accurate. That's what I would do if I was designing a gauge for industrial use. I think this doesn't need to be quite as accurate as that (to keep costs down for a one or two use tool) but it does need to at least be repeatable so you can vary the setting if need be.
A go/no-go gauge might be ideal in some ways. That would be easy to make, and pretty simple to use. Possibly a better solution would be a digital gauge where you can set it and then maybe tweak the settings to fit the MC. I do believe that there are some differences in MC piston depth that we might need to start looking at as we have more offshore sourced parts.
I do have an idea that might work... Gotta think a little more and possibly do a prototype....
I'm interested in what you might come with if you choose to pursue this. Keep me in the loop please!
rrmotorsports
New Member
I'd suggest installing this distribution block and lines in conjunction with others comments regarding pushrod length.
65-66 Dodge Mopar Dual Master Conversion Cylinder Block and Brake Lines Tubes | eBay
I had issues with my brake pedal, having too much play and not engaging quick enough. I adjusted the push rod to have approx 3/32" preload when tightening the MC.
Seems to work as it should with minimum free play in the pedal, maybe 3/16" total.
Seems to work as it should with minimum free play in the pedal, maybe 3/16" total.
Last edited:
73Coupe
Senior Member
Learn to interpret his comments as entertainment and your whole world will change.
66chry300
New Member
Hi guys! Another update! I adjusted the rod on the brake booster with the tool and now it’s in the right spot. Still having issues with too much pressure going to the back brakes so what I am going to do is that i’m going to add an inline adjustable proportioning valve so I can meter the pressure going to the back brakes. Do y’all think this is a good idea?
Thanks!
Sean
Thanks!
Sean
Sean, there were some indications in some of the responses above that the master cylinder plumbing was perhaps hooked up backwards to the distribution block in some way, and that the adjusters were possibly on backwards as well on the rear brakes. I would definitely look into that before going to the trouble and extra cost of adding an adjustable proportioning valve. Rule out these things first would be my advice.
Clover
Well-Known Member
No. That is not a disc brake booster. It looks just like the original on my ‘66 300, which was originally drum/drum and has been in the family since 1978.
Clover
Well-Known Member
I have put disc booster on drum system and what happens is that it works great, with further-reduced pedal effort.
And there you have it!!
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