1966 Dodge Monaco

DuleyMAc

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Hi, First time on the forum...
I own a 1966 Dodge Monaco, 383 6.3 ltr C Body, and I am in the process of redoing the brakes. I have done everything except replace the valve that runs off the master cylinder. The 66 Monaco I own is a drum brake system and I believe what I am looking for proportion valve. I am certain it is seized and want to replace it. I am uncertain as to what this valve is called and was hoping someone could confirm it is in fact a proportion valve? If it is not, what is it called?
I have searched high and low for a replacement part for this and cannot find one - any suggestions as to who might carry this part?
Thanks
 
Might be called a distribution block. Pics of the car would help, me, that is.
 
Might be called a distribution block. Pics of the car would help, me, that is.

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That looks like a distribution block. Top line is from MC, two on right side are to front brakes and line on left goes to rear brakes. If this is correct, there are no moving parts inside, hence nothing to "go wrong". It seems you are still using the single MC.. If this is so, you should upgrade to a dual cylinder for safety sake. Lindsay
 
That looks like a distribution block. Top line is from MC, two on right side are to front brakes and line on left goes to rear brakes. If this is correct, there are no moving parts inside, hence nothing to "go wrong". It seems you are still using the single MC.. If this is so, you should upgrade to a dual cylinder for safety sake. Lindsay
Hey 66 Fury I, much thanks for the info. So the Distribution Block doesn't have any mechanical parts like a piston or anything? I was thinking there would be something similar to a proportion valve, but i guess not. So this begs the next question: what could be causing my brake pedal to be rock solid with no give at all? I've replaced the entire brake system with all new parts. The only thing that hasn't been replaced is the distribution block. When I bleed the brakes there is no issue with the travel on the pedal, but once I finish bleeding the system and close off the last valve the pedal has absolutely no give and it doesn't brake well at all. In fact it barely stops. I've bled the brakes three times now thinking there's a small chance there's an air bubble in the system, but there's not.
Any thoughts on where I should turn next?
I hear you on the dual cylinder and appreciate the note about the safety issue, I may do it in the fall, but trying to figure out this issue in the meanwhile.
 
Hey 66 Fury I, much thanks for the info. So the Distribution Block doesn't have any mechanical parts like a piston or anything? I was thinking there would be something similar to a proportion valve, but i guess not. So this begs the next question: what could be causing my brake pedal to be rock solid with no give at all? I've replaced the entire brake system with all new parts. The only thing that hasn't been replaced is the distribution block. When I bleed the brakes there is no issue with the travel on the pedal, but once I finish bleeding the system and close off the last valve the pedal has absolutely no give and it doesn't brake well at all. In fact it barely stops. I've bled the brakes three times now thinking there's a small chance there's an air bubble in the system, but there's not.
Any thoughts on where I should turn next?
I hear you on the dual cylinder and appreciate the note about the safety issue, I may do it in the fall, but trying to figure out this issue in the meanwhile.

The pedal is rock-solid - when the engine is running or when it's not?

Does the car have power brakes?
 
It's definitely rock solid when it's running as I've tried it for a couple of test runs around the block, but I'll have to double check what it does when the engine is not running.
 
Nice car, thanks for the pictures.

The pedal would be spongy if there was air in the lines.

Don't worry about what it does with the engine off, it would be a very firm pedal without vacuum, like you have when driving. Make sure the hose from the intake is plugged in to the booster, and also see if the valve on the booster is working.
 
Thanks for the note. My car doesn't have Power Brakes -- Manual Brakes with just the Master Cylinder.
 
Thanks for the note. My car doesn't have Power Brakes -- Manual Brakes with just the Master Cylinder.
Is the pushrod for the master cylinder at the correct length? You might need to back it off some to get the pressure down to a manageable amount.
 
That is a great question. I looked at the MC that I took off and there doesn't seem to be any adjustment on the Push Rod. it's one linkage with a pin type connect with no adjustment from what I can see.
 
I had a '65 Polara with a single-chamber MC. It was a 4-door with a slant-6, and it had power brakes. I couldn't imagine it with manual brakes. What was Chrysler thinking putting manual brakes in a C-body, in a convertible no less.

How long have you owned the car?
 
Get out! Wow, my dad is still around, and I have his '67 Monaco.

Did you order it with manual brakes?

Jack up the front of the car, maybe one wheel at a time, have someone spin the tire by hand while you step on the brake pedal, see if it catches and stops the wheel. Maybe the brake shoes need adjusting. They've got to be really close to work well.
 
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That's so great! I lived in northern Canada and flew to Montreal late in 66 to get the vehicle, and the only option they had available was the manual brake.
that might be a good call with the shoe adjustment. I"ll take a look at that tomorrow and report back.
 
That is a great question. I looked at the MC that I took off and there doesn't seem to be any adjustment on the Push Rod. it's one linkage with a pin type connect with no adjustment from what I can see.
Is it possible that you got a power brake master cylinder? Looking at Rock Auto shows different part numbers MC for power and manual brakes.

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That could explain the difference in pedal pressure, all other things being the same.
 
Is it possible that you got a power brake master cylinder? Looking at Rock Auto shows different part numbers MC for power and manual brakes.

View attachment 675101

That could explain the difference in pedal pressure, all other things being the same.

Was thinking the same thing, that by mistake you maybe ordered a power master cylinder for a manual brake car?

ps/ amazing that you kept the car all these years! Respect!
 
Was thinking the same thing, that by mistake you maybe ordered a power master cylinder for a manual brake car?

ps/ amazing that you kept the car all these years! Respect!
Thanks for the notes folks, I really appreciate it. I looked at the order and the old MC, and compared the two and they’re exactly the same. What would be different with the power brake MC, vs the manual brake MC?
 
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