1966 Imperial Crown convertible

Yay!!! My new booster arrived this morning! It is correct! It fits! Should have brakes in a few days, then in my shop where she belongs. After just two months and change...no fault of my mechanic.
 
Last edited:
The car is ready!!!

Well, 94.518% ready. The LF brake is pulling the car to the left when braking, and the left brake lamp is out. All the other lights work. So, I'm having the Imperial flatbedded home from Steve's shop, as he's got other customers in line. I'll pull the drum myself and do any needed adjustments, plus fix the lamp. But, after nearly 10 weeks, it's coming home, yay!
 
Last edited:
The Imp is home safe! The brake booster and the new dual master cylinder are installed, and the car stops waaaaaay better. But, the LF grabs in a hard stop and pulls the car left, so I need to pull that drum and check. Other than that, it's 99% ready to drive and enjoy again. I ended up flatbedding it home in an abundance of caution, as it's a 40-mile drive each way. And we had eight inches of snow coming overnight, so I'm happy I picked it up when I did.

With a front brake check and a wash by Friday, it'll be ready to drive Saturday for the first time since 10/18. Can't wait!

20200204_182021.jpg
 
Last edited:
patrick66 said:
The Imp is home safe! The brake booster and the new dual master cylinder are installed, and the car stops waaaaaay better. But, the LF grabs in a hard stop and pulls the car left, so I need to pull that drum and check. Other than that, it's 99% ready to drive and enjoy again. I ended up flatbedding it home in an abundance of caution, as it's a 40-mile drive each way. And we had eight inches of snow coming overnight, so I'm happy I picked it up when I did.

With a front brake check and a wash by Friday, it'll be ready to drive Saturday for the first time since 10/18. Can't wait!

View attachment 350579
Click to expand...
I'm interested to see what the brake issue cause is... I know the shop was just ready for her to leave, but I couldn't have allowed her to leave like that.
 
I've known him for many years. I'm not worried about it. It's likely an adjustment on the LF drum. Now that the brakes actually DO work, it probably manifested itself while the car was down. Remember, it sat since Oct '18, and had been driven only 220 miles in the year prior.
 
Hopefully it's not a leaking wheel cylinder and wet brake shoes. That will cause a pretty hard pull to the side that's leaking.

Jeff
 
The fronts are all-new in '17, with wheel cylinders, brake shoes and kiits, new brake lines, and turned drums. Hopefully, it's just an adjustment.
 
Cleaned the shop up today; got tired of not being able to find tools, especially the ones my sons borrow and don't put back! So now I've got clean floors and room to actually work! I filled three of my four city trash containers! Still don't have a tabletop to use for working on stuff, sInce both are stacked with crap that I need to sort and either toss or keep. So, working on cars amounted to zip today.

I did get the PS vent window to close, weirdly enough. It opens fine, but got stuck and wouldn't close, no matter what, or whether I used the driver or passenger door switches. Today, it closed fine fron the DS switchbank. Had the car running for a few minutes while I had it outside the shop, and figured I'd try closing the wing. Hit the button, and it closed right up. Wow. Add the switch banks on both doors on the "clean and reassemble" list.
 
A couple of pics of that beautiful new booster and dual master, plus almost a shock. Now, if it would get over freezing! This week has been cold! Ten degrees this morning.

20200213_213638.jpg


20200213_213646.jpg


20200213_213719.jpg
 
Saturday and Sunday are both forecast for 66 degrees, so the first street test-drive in many months for me and the Imp will occur. I'll do a quick video of it and post it to youtube, with a link here to it. I want to see for myself how hard (or not) the brake pull is (only driven it about 100' or so), plus give the old gal a bath at the local wash emporium.
 
Unfucking real...went out to the car to take it for a short drive and a wash. Started right up. Let it run for a couple of minutes, then shut it off to fill up the PS reservoir. Did that, re-checked the other fliuds, fired it up and drove the 250 feet to the house garage. It's uphill and concrrete for the last 100 feet. Looked and saw a nice trail of ATF going up the drive.

Seriously?

Went back to the shop. Confirmed the LF brake applies before the others. Adjusted it back and the RF tighter, so that's done. Now, to trace the ATF leak to see if it's power steering or trans sourced. I'll do that tomorrow. More than likely, one of the PS hoses is toast - they're originals.
 
Last edited:
Guess it's time for a physically larger battery with more CCA. The battery in it is kinda small. That one is going in the tractor. The tractor battery just turned ten this month, according to the little sticker on it.

Got the ps hose off, easy enough. Definitely original. I'll get that today when I go for the new battery.
 
Got the hose and the Group 27 big-*** battery today, it has 975 CCA! Lots better than the itty-bitty 550 CCA battery i had borrowed from the '68 truck. Got the son's truck to replace the fuel pump in, first.
 
Back to the Imperial. The PS low-pressure line is as old as the car. With the PS cooler mounted in front of the core support, there are approximately 100" of it! All of ot is hard and brittle. Bought new nose this morning at Midwest Hose. Like everthing else on this car, what shpuld be a day-job to do, isn't.

Before the hose, I removed the battery tray and support for additional access. It's huge. I brushed it down, painted the underside with undercoating, and the top with low-gloss black. It's off to the side awaiting installation.

Rebuilt my spare two window motors last night. They're ready to go in.
.
Next up is figuring out why the ps pump is loose. That and replacing the ps hoses should be a today-thing...we'll see.

20200307_112433.jpg


20200307_112441.jpg


20200307_112501.jpg


20200307_112512.jpg


20200307_112530.jpg
 
There's a trick to getting those P/S pumps tight again, but I don't remember it. Back when my '66 New Yorker was a daily driver I jammed a chunk of wood down in the bracket to keep it tight. It had been fine until I loosened it for some repair I was doing, then was never able to get it tight again. I may have just not had the right tools back then to crank down hard enough on the bolts. There's also a rubber bumper on the bracket that wears out/falls out.

Jeff
 
Those Window motors don't look correct for a '66 maybe '67 and up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

max426
  • Locked
For Sale 1966 Imperial Crown hardtop
Replies
0
Views
1K
max426
max426
marty mopar
NOT MINE 1966 Chrysler 300 Convertible - $13,500 - Knoxville, TN
Replies
3
Views
952
fury fan
fury fan
Isaiah Estrada
For Sale 1968 Chrysler New Yorker $12K Santa Maria CA
Replies
3
Views
560
FURYGT
FURYGT
A
Thinking of selling my 66 Fury
Replies
5
Views
1K
SportFuryman
SportFuryman
max426
  • Locked
For Sale 1966 Imperial Crown hardtop 45 minutes from Carlisle
Replies
1
Views
2K
max426
max426
Back
Top