1966 Monaco - About to remove dash

[Dylan Galvin]

I’m about to rewire the Monaco and am going blindly start the dash removal in like an hour- unless you guys have any tips or bits of knowledge you’d like to share. This seems like it’ll be not too difficult, just time consuming. Any help is much appreciated

 

[Polara_500]

The whole dash will be verrrrry difficult as there's screws way close to the windshield. I don't personally know of anyone that has successfully removed one with the windshield in place. Keep us posted!

 

[Turboomni]

Yikes!!!I wonder if we will ever hear from him again,,,,,,,,,

 

[Dylan Galvin]

****... lol

 

[Dylan Galvin]

Soooo maybe I dont remove it? I just assume wiring will be a PITA with it still in the car

 

[413]

“blindly start the dash removal”

what could Possibly go wrong?


Please delay this a week. Ask questions, read the service manual first. Members may have pictures to post.

 

[Polara_500]

I just assume wiring will be a PITA with it still in the car

Yeppers........ loads and loads of fun.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

It's actually not that bad doing it in the car. I suggest you take the front seat out to aid in having enough room to lie down etc. Having several trouble lights to make it easier to see things will help tremendously.

Be prepared to drop the steering column a bit - use a strong bit of string to "hang" it up from the rear view mirror mount. There will be a cover on where the column bolts to the dash - remove that and you'll see the bolts that the column is held on by.

Disconnect the battery if you haven't done so already.

The 3 connectors that form the bulkhead assembly (where all the wiring enters the car) is easily dealt with if you push the spring clips on the sides of the connector under the dash and allow the whole shebang to come into the engine bay. Then you can carefully disconnect the 3 harness connectors. Don't worry, they can ONLY go back on their proper places as they're indexed.

Go slowly and label everything. Take pictures as you go.

Start on the driver side and work your way across. Remove the various bezels and panels on the front of the dash if they're accessible that way, to allow you to get to things you can disconnect from in front. Remember, if things seem like they don't want to move, don't force things. Also, the harness is held in place by various sheet metal loops that the harness tucks into, so sometimes it will restrict movement of components.

Did I mention - take pictures as you go.

Be gentle - things have been in there for 50 years or more.

Everything disconnects - nothing is "hardwired", so just be patient and diligent. If connectors seem stiff and hard to unclip, sometimes they can benefit from a gentle application of a little heat to make them more flexible - I'm talking about a hair dryer kind of heat... a minute or so will soften up a brittle connector and allow those pesky tabs to be able to be flexed up and over the nubs... don't force things, as that's when they break.

Also, this is a fantastic time to do the MAD conversion and bypass all those nasty high amperage connections that run through the bulkhead connectors.

Good luck!

 

[Dylan Galvin]

It's actually not that bad doing it in the car. I suggest you take the front seat out to aid in having enough room to lie down etc. Having several trouble lights to make it easier to see things will help tremendously.

Be prepared to drop the steering column a bit - use a strong bit of string to "hang" it up from the rear view mirror mount. There will be a cover on where the column bolts to the dash - remove that and you'll see the bolts that the column is held on by.

Disconnect the battery if you haven't done so already.

The 3 connectors that form the bulkhead assembly (where all the wiring enters the car) is easily dealt with if you push the spring clips on the sides of the connector under the dash and allow the whole shebang to come into the engine bay. Then you can carefully disconnect the 3 harness connectors. Don't worry, they can ONLY go back on their proper places as they're indexed.

Go slowly and label everything. Take pictures as you go.

Start on the driver side and work your way across. Remove the various bezels and panels on the front of the dash if they're accessible that way, to allow you to get to things you can disconnect from in front. Remember, if things seem like they don't want to move, don't force things. Also, the harness is held in place by various sheet metal loops that the harness tucks into, so sometimes it will restrict movement of components.

Did I mention - take pictures as you go.

Be gentle - things have been in there for 50 years or more.

Everything disconnects - nothing is "hardwired", so just be patient and diligent. If connectors seem stiff and hard to unclip, sometimes they can benefit from a gentle application of a little heat to make them more flexible - I'm talking about a hair dryer kind of heat... a minute or so will soften up a brittle connector and allow those pesky tabs to be able to be flexed up and over the nubs... don't force things, as that's when they break.

Also, this is a fantastic time to do the MAD conversion and bypass all those nasty high amperage connections that run through the bulkhead connectors.

Good luck!

Heyyy there we go. Thanks for the useful info and tips. Thats the project for this week then. I already got the seat out in prep for this. If all goes according to plan, this thing should be making some noise by the end of next week. I'm definitely going to try and clean up the icky factory stuff going on in there.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Good luck and ask questions!

 

[mrfury68]

This seems like it’ll be not too difficult, just time consuming

Oh, famous last words. Best of luck to you. It's not impossible, it's been done before obviously. It is just tedious and requires much patience and ability to bend like Gumby. A factory service manual is a must have for guidance. Removing the front seat is the best way to go as mentioned before. Keep us posted and good luck. We are here for you man!

 

[rapidtrans]

Removing the gauge pods and glove box give a good amount of access.
Removing console, if so equipped, will help also. Although those mounting brackets were always digging in my back.
This project was the replacement of my dash pad, radio, front speaker and led dash lights.
Your Factory Service Manual is your friend!

 

[LocuMob]

I was just looking at the backside of a dash I took out of a car, and was glad I'm not doing any work inside the car. You're young, it shouldn't hurt too much.

 

[TxDon]

I'm subscribed.

 

[rapidtrans]

Back together with new carpet installed.
A complete spare dash for reference was a big help also.

 

[TxDon]

What is involved to just remove the two instrument pods? I need to lubricate my speedometer cable and clean up the lenses and gauge faces.

 

[Polara_500]

What is involved to just remove the two instrument pods? I need to lubricate my speedometer cable and clean up the lenses and gauge faces.

Three screws on each pod, the electrical plugs (large round one on the gauge pod, two battery terminals on the speedo pod) and the speedo cable itself. The large connector on the right unit is typically a pain in the butt to remove and can fairly easily be damaged.

 

[Polara_500]

Three screws on each pod, the electrical plugs (large round one on the gauge pod, two battery terminals on the speedo pod) and the speedo cable itself. The large connector on the right unit is typically a pain in the butt to remove and can fairly easily be damaged.

Let me correct this - I was babbling from memory but went and checked some extras, so.......

Back side of the gage pod has the multi-pole connector as I mentioned, also has the battery (ammeter) connections, (that everyone tells you to bypass).

Showing the ammeter wires....

The back of the speedo pod is simpler - one 4 pin connector and the speedo cable.

 

[TxDon]

Let me correct this - I was babbling from memory but went and checked some extras, so.......

Back side of the gage pod has the multi-pole connector as I mentioned, also has the battery (ammeter) connections, (that everyone tells you to bypass).
View attachment 421545
Showing the ammeter wires....
View attachment 421546
The back of the speedo pod is simpler - one 4 pin connector and the speedo cable.
View attachment 421548

Thanks, that is a big help. Is there enough slack in the connector wiring and the speedo cable to disconnect them without having to go under the dash?

 

[Big_John]

Do yourself a favor and make up some stands to hold the dash while working on it. These are made from old bed frame (a favorite media of mine)