1967 Plymouth Fury III 318

I was able to remove the engine and transmission yesterday! Taking it to the engine builder tomorrow.
Time to start cleaning up the engine bay, removing the front suspension to replace the bushings and replace the master cylinder with a power booster.

IMG_20191006_175520.jpg
IMG_20191006_175537.jpg
 
Get some Kano Kroil and spray or pour it into the cylinders. It's the best penetration fluid on the market. I use it on aircart parts/bolt that are in the hot section of turbines, and it works.

That should loosen up the motor for ya
 
Well, received some bad news today...my 318 is toast. Talking to the builder he said he thinks water might have got in it somehow, so he would want to magnaflux the block. Then the heads would need a valve job, new pistons and rods. It all started adding up and he just thinks I'd be better off buying a new engine than sinking a ton of money into my 318 just to get it back to normal.

With that said, I am now on the hunt. I would like to go 318, 340, or 360. Would a 340 or 360 use the same 727? Are there motor mounts that would work with a 340 or 360 in a '67 Fury? Would I then need a new linkage if I didnt stick with a 318?

IMG_20191029_075558.jpg
IMG_20191029_075609.jpg
 
There were two different 318's... Polys and LA Built. LA's are newer, easier to find and have more parts available.

318's are very common, 340's not so much...which I think is the same block, just modified.
360's... meh.. by the specs, and what I remember, better with a punched and modified 318.

If you can find a BB 383, which are common.. get it. Transmission is the same.. 727.

Poly 318 - What Is A Mopar 318 Polysphere And How Come Nobody Likes It?
LA Blocks - LA - Chrysler small block V8 engines
 
Last edited:
James Romano said:
If you can find a BB 383, which are common.. get it. Transmission is the same.. 727.
Click to expand...

I thought the 383 on up had a different bell housing on the 727 compared to the 360/318/273?
 
Last edited:
Furyus67 said:
Well, received some bad news today...my 318 is toast. Talking to the builder he said he thinks water might have got in it somehow, so he would want to magnaflux the block. Then the heads would need a valve job, new pistons and rods. It all started adding up and he just thinks I'd be better off buying a new engine than sinking a ton of money into my 318 just to get it back to normal.

With that said, I am now on the hunt. I would like to go 318, 340, or 360. Would a 340 or 360 use the same 727? Are there motor mounts that would work with a 340 or 360 in a '67 Fury? Would I then need a new linkage if I didnt stick with a 318?

View attachment 326322 View attachment 326323
Click to expand...

Just my experience, but I bought an engine from S&J Engines. 7 year/100,000 mile warranty if a real mechanic does install. I did mine with a friend. 68 Fury with 383. Took 3 weeks from order to shipping and 1 week shipping time. I followed the break in procedures and have had zero trouble from the engine. My poor abilities with carburetor is another matter. I drive the car to work and have had no problems. Not using oil, no leaks.

There are no rebuilders in my area. That is why I bought the long block as I did. My experience has been positive these first 3,000 miles.
 
$1979 for a 440 BB long block .. wow. That's a steal. I get that it's not a high-po build, but you can definitely get a lot out of that motor for that price
 
James Romano said:
$1979 for a 440 BB long block .. wow. That's a steal. I get that it's not a high-po build, but you can definitely get a lot out of that motor for that price
Click to expand...

when I placed the order for my engine, I was offered up sales on camshaft, etc. I wanted the same as what Plymouth put in on assembly line.
 
Joseph James said:
Just my experience, but I bought an engine from S&J Engines. 7 year/100,000 mile warranty if a real mechanic does install. I did mine with a friend. 68 Fury with 383. Took 3 weeks from order to shipping and 1 week shipping time. I followed the break in procedures and have had zero trouble from the engine. My poor abilities with carburetor is another matter. I drive the car to work and have had no problems. Not using oil, no leaks.

There are no rebuilders in my area. That is why I bought the long block as I did. My experience has been positive these first 3,000 miles.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the message. I'll have to check out this route.
 
Joseph James said:
we have no rebuilders where I live, so this was about the only option I had. I imagine a lot of the guys here can rebuild their own but I cannot.
Click to expand...
No harm in that. Unless you really know what you're doing...or have a buddy that does...you'll have a whole lotta moola in pieces all over your garage floor real fast. Been there, done that.
 
Currently still hunting for an engine. I've really been contemplating a 5.2 magnum swap using the older style V-belt design. Finding a donor Ram, Dakota, or Durango with less than 150,000 miles has been a challenge. The junkyard in our area, Crazy Rays, will sell the engine for $232. They post their vehicle inventory with the VIN. I've been using the VIN to check the last recorded mileage on the carfax to see if I really want to go pull the engine. Another junkyard in the area, Brandywine auto parts will sell the engine already pulled, and "tested" for $350 with a 30 day warranty. The engine they have has 180,000 miles. If I get impatient I might go get that one just because I don't have to pull it.
 
Furyus67 said:
Currently still hunting for an engine. I've really been contemplating a 5.2 magnum swap using the older style V-belt design. Finding a donor Ram, Dakota, or Durango with less than 150,000 miles has been a challenge. The junkyard in our area, Crazy Rays, will sell the engine for $232. They post their vehicle inventory with the VIN. I've been using the VIN to check the last recorded mileage on the carfax to see if I really want to go pull the engine. Another junkyard in the area, Brandywine auto parts will sell the engine already pulled, and "tested" for $350 with a 30 day warranty. The engine they have has 180,000 miles. If I get impatient I might go get that one just because I don't have to pull it.
Click to expand...

When I pulled my 383 it was easy-way easier than getting the new one back in.
 
Picked up a 5.2 magnum yesterday. Great deal off Facebook marketplace. Time to get this party started. I will continue to document in here. I plan on cleaning up the block and painting red. Using my V-belt pulleys and accessories rather than serpentine belt. New intake manifold for carb. New very mild cam. Using mechanical fuel pump rather than electric. I will be following the tips from magnumswap.com and Diy - Magnum Swap!!

Stay tuned.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

65GUS
Rebuild Poly 318 or install LA 318 ?
Replies
13
Views
1K
65GUS
65GUS
M
  • Locked
WANTED 1967 Dodge Monaco Parts Needed
Replies
9
Views
1K
MoPar~Man
MoPar~Man
bigfury3
75 360la specs?
Replies
9
Views
536
Knebel
Knebel
Molepar28
1967 Chrysler New Yorker - Budd Disc Brakes rebuilt, seems too tight!
Replies
7
Views
704
CBODY67
C
O
  • Locked
For Sale 1969 Plymouth Fury III convertible project
Replies
0
Views
2K
oldmanbob
O
Back
Top