1967 Plymouth Sport Fury III Fast-Top **88,900 miles**

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Guys, come on now! First off I don't see an issue with joining a site and putting something on the For Sale forum, even if he is a Pontiac guy. Also, he's not a snake oil sales man or talking trash about Mopars. He brought the car here, because we are Mopar guys, he didn't bring it to the derby or threaten to crush it if it didn't sell! It's a nice looking driver with issues, but, yes, over priced. I would call it a good starter for $3500. There are some new members here that don't have C's yet and may want to take the plunge. I wish I could drive my project for a while and then rebuild I think that's where we are at here.

James

James--

You're right, it is positive that he came to a C Body site to see what folks in the know would think. I just thought it was abrupt to throw an ad out there in the first or second post on a discussion forum. Maybe a few intro posts in the Welcome Wagon, then drop the ad. A little neck rub before we get the reacharound, you know?
 
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James--

You're right, it is positive that he came to a C Body site to see what folks in the know would think. I just thought it was abrupt to throw an ad out there in the first or second post on a discussion forum. Maybe a few intro posts in the Welcome Wagon, then drop the ad. A little neck rub before we get the reacharound, you know?

Yes, I agree. "Hey I'm not a Mopar guy, but I have this cool car what do you think...", or something like that. Still, it must be Ok by the site admins to just sign up and, bam, first post is in the FS forum. LOL, maybe newbies should be directed to the Welcome Wagon as a first post before they can go anywhere else?
 
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Originally Posted by Badbird455
I thought I'd see if any C-body fans would want it....
it seams (sic) like everyone just talks a lot a crap about peoples stuff here...


Everything by the seller was said right here early on.

The lurkers should know that coming in, it's what makes this site great. Newbies shouldn't get defensive when we share an opinion. There should be a "newbie primer", maybe posted somewhere on the home page, "What to expect when joining this site" No BS! :mob:
 
Okay, here is my modest opinion seeing as I have just over 400 posts.. :D

The car still has potential but not at the asking price..

I think to myself that if this were a GM or Ford product with the same issues that it might get the asking price or very close to it..

Since it is a C-Body it won't unless it is mint. Bottom line.

The seller has learned this simply by joining this site and finding out how abrupt some members can be. - Honest opinions are not out of line.

I personally think he should done his homework a bit further before posting it here thus avoiding the responses.
I have experienced this with other sites I am a member of.
Especially motorcycle forums I belong to.

EBay can be even a nightmare trying to sell a vehicle..

I personally will never post a car for sale on any sites unless it is priced as a mover.

Hopefully this member will not run away but learn from this experience.

Also adjust his asking price if he really wants to sell the car or keep it and work with us to assist him in how to fix it up!
 
The lurkers should know that coming in, it's what makes this site great. Newbies shouldn't get defensive when we share an opinion. There should be a "newbie primer", maybe posted somewhere on the home page, "What to expect when joining this site" No BS! :mob:



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Yes, I agree. "Hey I'm not a Mopar guy, but I have this cool car what do you think...", or something like that. Still, it must be Ok by the site admins to just sign up and, bam, first post is in the FS forum. LOL, maybe newbies should be directed to the Welcome Wagon as a first post before they can go anywhere else?

100 posts before you can go to the for sale forum and post an ad.
 
I certainly don't fault the OP for putting a for sale ad here as their first post. It's getting the ad to those that appreciate the car. His price may be high too, but most people that advertise start high and go from there.

As for the rust issues, yes the car has some. How much is only a guess without a first-hand look. I wouldn't consider it to be a rusted out hulk (as the term "rusted out" usually infers to me), although clearly there are some areas that are rusted through.

And Mr. Fix It, you're at 428 now. Work yourself to 440 and you'll be good again.
 
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Not talking crap just the facts.

So what are the facts. There is rust on both rear quarters and wheel arches. That needs to be cut out and and pieces fabricated for replacement not to mention the overlap of two pieces of metal at the wheel lip flange.


The car obviously had a vinyl roof at one time hence the stainless trim from C pillar to C pillar. That right there means a repaint in the past. The trim right now is hiding how many enlarged trim holes due to rust?

What is going on in the trunk and in the frame needs to be assessed since they are not shown. What is going on with the underside of the package tray and rear window channel? Been there, seen that.

Engine wise it might be ok. Suspension wise I'm sure it needs a complete rebuild as they all do at 45 years. The interior looks good for it's age.

Bottom line how would I grade it on a scale of 1 - 5 with 1 being professionally restored recently to not quite a rust bucket but needing everything. I'd put it a #4 with minimal rust as #3 has no rust. That would put the value around 3K at that point. Having someone who knows what they are doing to handle all the body work is at least 8K and up in California. That would put the cost now at 11K and that is more than a #2 car is worth therefore one better know how to do everything. Or go back east where rust is expected and loved but not here in California for something that isn't a pony car. I'm doing rust repair right now on a big Merc and you should try fabrication and a MIG yourself. After that then strip all the paint to paint correctly.

That could be true, but those are not all facts, some just plain assumptions. Apparently what you don't know is that rear quarters are produced for this car which saves drastically on the cost. I've had it looked at by a few pros so I'm not totally in the dark. Still with paint, yes it would cost an arm and a leg but no where near your numbers. I have the car priced around a #4 car using the Hagerty's tool, whether or not that's accurate it's a starting point since there aren't a whole lot of '67's around. Where are you getting the value from? All I'm doing is trying to find the car a good home. I saved this car and it's pretty cool so just back off a little. I needed a starting point and this happens to be the price, never said it was set in stone. The Hagerty tool has a #4 at $8200 and #3 at $11,300 After speaking with a good body and paint guy that's done some really nice restorations with documented rust repair on a few B bodies I felt better about this Sport Fury. I just don't think it's as extensive as your making it out to be. I agree, if the quarters had to be fabricated from scratch then yes it would be some serious cost involved, that's not the case though....
 
James--

You're right, it is positive that he came to a C Body site to see what folks in the know would think. I just thought it was abrupt to throw an ad out there in the first or second post on a discussion forum. Maybe a few intro posts in the Welcome Wagon, then drop the ad. A little neck rub before we get the reacharound, you know?

Yeah well sorry, I've been on the site a bunch of times through out the year but never joined or posted. As most have already slammed me on, I'm not a Mopar expert. what's done is done so, here I am!!
 
The lurkers should know that coming in, it's what makes this site great. Newbies shouldn't get defensive when we share an opinion. There should be a "newbie primer", maybe posted somewhere on the home page, "What to expect when joining this site" No BS! :mob:

Haha! Your right, i got all butt hurt right away.....what was I thinking entering this dragon's den!
 
It IS rusted out. Sorry. I don't understand your definition of rusted out.

BTW, the rust convinced me I wouldn't be interested but the bungee cord holding the battery in was another nail. Not that it in itself is particularly bad but that always indicates no one gave a crap about KEEPING UP the car and the car is a Pandora's box. ASK MOST VETERANS HOW AND WHY WE KNOW. From years attending the school of hard knocks. Now, if you want to continue the debate, I'll end all discussion right here:

Seriously, freaKin HOSE CLAMPS???
Is that heater hose.
Single belt?
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The whole car is Micky Moused.
$2,000.00

Haha! yeah $2k. It's not perfect but get a clue, yeah I've heard the whole "school of hard knocks" Impressive. I don't know enough about Mopars to have the engine bay factory perfect but this is the way the car was and a few simple fixes under the hood like hose clamps and a battery hold down does not come close to putting in a Micky mouse category. Yeah the car was being neglected and on a downward spiral but I feel as though I saved it and She sure has a lot more potential then the crap I see on the market everyday. I drove the car 600 miles home without a single hitch, she rides and handles fantastic too! you don't sound like much of a Commando if you give up that easy.....
 
Not really sure where the ac?? Hoses are going?? The ac lines are all on passenger side of firewall. :rant:

Yeah, I've seen this set up on a few other Sport Fury's but not really sure what the deal is. It's like the AC was added after the car was bought. I though aftermarket until I saw another with the same set up??
 
Okay, here is my modest opinion seeing as I have just over 400 posts.. :D

The car still has potential but not at the asking price..

I think to myself that if this were a GM or Ford product with the same issues that it might get the asking price or very close to it..

Since it is a C-Body it won't unless it is mint. Bottom line.

The seller has learned this simply by joining this site and finding out how abrupt some members can be. - Honest opinions are not out of line.

I personally think he should done his homework a bit further before posting it here thus avoiding the responses.
I have experienced this with other sites I am a member of.
Especially motorcycle forums I belong to.

EBay can be even a nightmare trying to sell a vehicle..

I personally will never post a car for sale on any sites unless it is priced as a mover.

Hopefully this member will not run away but learn from this experience.

Also adjust his asking price if he really wants to sell the car or keep it and work with us to assist him in how to fix it up!

Yes you hit the nail right on the head. The car was my Aunt's neighbor who was the 3rd owner. long story short She knew I liked older cars so I got the call when it was either going to one of the grand kids?? why i don't know but all I heard from the 20 year old was drop it, throw headers and rims on it and some beat. like i said before I'm not the leading Mopar expert as we all know but I didn't want the car to go to this kid and get molested. I though it was pretty close to all original and still do. so we worked out a price and I drove Her home. The exhaust and rear bumper were pretty beat so I replaced them, that's manifold back. Someone mentioned if they were the correct HO manifolds, I'm not sure but I put the same part number manifolds that were on the car, which is period correct. Anyway, just throwing it out there. I planned on keeping it but I have too many projects to take on this beast...don't mind keeping it for a while either. She goes 70mph down the road better than a lot of new cars i've been in. In fact a friend of mine drove me up in his 2011 Camry which has 18,000 miles and the 600 mile ride home in the Fury was soooo much better! As far as my price, yeah I've learned over the last couple weeks it's not likely but I really don't think I'm too far off. An upcoming Mopar show will give me a nice idea.... I'm not running, I'll stand up and defend my Sport Fury!! lol.
 
That could be true, but those are not all facts, some just plain assumptions. Apparently what you don't know is that rear quarters are produced for this car which saves drastically on the cost. I've had it looked at by a few pros so I'm not totally in the dark. Still with paint, yes it would cost an arm and a leg but no where near your numbers. I have the car priced around a #4 car using the Hagerty's tool, whether or not that's accurate it's a starting point since there aren't a whole lot of '67's around. Where are you getting the value from? All I'm doing is trying to find the car a good home. I saved this car and it's pretty cool so just back off a little. I needed a starting point and this happens to be the price, never said it was set in stone. The Hagerty tool has a #4 at $8200 and #3 at $11,300 After speaking with a good body and paint guy that's done some really nice restorations with documented rust repair on a few B bodies I felt better about this Sport Fury. I just don't think it's as extensive as your making it out to be. I agree, if the quarters had to be fabricated from scratch then yes it would be some serious cost involved, that's not the case though....


Hagerty, like NADA, are out in left field. Hagerty doesn't even have a category for your car since their #4 doesn't include rust at all. Hagerty values my 68 Mustang at almost $30K which I personally do not believe whatsoever. Where you got your value I have no idea also since Hagerty puts a #4 Fury III 2dr coupe with 440HP at just over 6K. I'd say a 440HP Fury wins out over a 383 Sport Fury. I get my values from Collector Car Market Review every month which is based on sales from auctions to ordinary private party. On the other hand Hagerty bases theirs on auctions of course, everybody does, but instead of completed private sales they use asking prices instead. Huge difference in asking price vs. final selling price. As for my estimate on rust repair and paint at 8K to start, if farmed out, I stand by that along with some other pros. At $50/hour, if you can find it out here, you can easily surpass 100 hours in total body work on that car just in labor no parts or materials.
 
Generic Quarters are made for just about everything, problem is it is bad metal ,gauge and fit........ To get quarters that will be right would require used or NOS.

I get my prices from sales.......
 
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