1968 300 Dash Wiring Project

[mgm1986]

I have the engine bay wiring mostly buttoned up and to finish testing everything I need to move under the dash so I pulled the cluster out yesterday.

First task. The fuel gauge. I know the sender had been replaced recently (and I know someone tried or did jack the car up by the gas tank ). Anyway, the first thing I did was test the volt limiter and it works, sometimes, if I touch it just right. But mostly it just puts out 12v and I certainly don't want to burn up the fuel gauge.

I read a post where some folks had used MeterMatch to get the gauge working correctly. If I read the instructions and website clearly, since I don't have a temp gauge, I should be able to use the MeterMatch as the 5v supply for the fuel gauge and not worry about replacing the Volt limiter mounted to the back of the cluster.

Before I buy the MeterMatch, can anyone confirm my understanding of what this cool little device can do? Thanks!

 

[mgm1986]

Preparing to bypass the bulkhead, removing the two 12 gauge wires that run through it. Found an existing hole conventiently located below the bulkhead connector that I was able to install a grommet and run a 10 gauge wire through (with a 16 gauge fusible link). Planning to splice the two existing wires to this new 10 gauge wire and bypass the ammeter entirely. One day I may do the volt meter upgrade as others have done but for now I will just use a volt meter that plugs into the cig lighter.

 

[Big_John]

I have the engine bay wiring mostly buttoned up and to finish testing everything I need to move under the dash so I pulled the cluster out yesterday.

First task. The fuel gauge. I know the sender had been replaced recently (and I know someone tried or did jack the car up by the gas tank ). Anyway, the first thing I did was test the volt limiter and it works, sometimes, if I touch it just right. But mostly it just puts out 12v and I certainly don't want to burn up the fuel gauge.

I read a post where some folks had used MeterMatch to get the gauge working correctly. If I read the instructions and website clearly, since I don't have a temp gauge, I should be able to use the MeterMatch as the 5v supply for the fuel gauge and not worry about replacing the Volt limiter mounted to the back of the cluster.

Before I buy the MeterMatch, can anyone confirm my understanding of what this cool little device can do? Thanks!

I have a Meter Match on one of my cars, but at the time, the voltage limiter had to be replaced with an electronic unit.

Looking now, it appears that you don't need to do that... However, it doesn't say it eliminates the existing (or non working) voltage limiter. What I suggest is to drop them an email and ask that question. I had a question and that's what I did and got the answer I needed.

 

[mgm1986]

Thank you @Big_John!

Tested all of the dash lights, most where burnt out but all of the circuits tested good and only one of the sockets is broken, although it still works. I'll replace it just to make sure it keeps working.

The dimmer for the interior dash lights sprung its spring so I am going to research that a bit to see if my idea for a repair would work. If I can keep the end of the spring fastened down in its cradle the switch should work once all the contacts are cleaned up.

 

[cbarge]

You can get dimmer switch rebuild kits on ebay.
Mopar used the same dimmer switch across the board for years.
You can either rebuild it yourself or get a specialist do it for you.
Mr. Heater box rebuilds thrm for roughly 150.00.
Tell em Leaburn sent ya!
Welcome — Mr Heaterbox and Interior Restoration Services

 

[Big_John]

@Devinism rebuilds then for about $100. Great guy to deal with and a member here.

 

[mgm1986]

Thank you, I will keep this in mind if my repair doesn't work. I cleaned everything and it tests good with my Ohm meter. I am going to fasten the spring back to the wheel with some glue and see how it goes. Not sure how it was fastened from the factory but it seems as long as you don't ruin the resistance of the spring it should work. Will post results whenever I can get it back in the car in the next 3-17 months ;-)

I used Corrosion X to clean everything. If you have never used it I cannot recommend this product enough. It kills green corrosion almost immediately and leaves a nice coating of protection.

CorrosionX – Corrosion Technologies

 

[1970cat]

not sure glue will work. the wire is a resistor and will possibly put off enough heat to melt glue. the ceramic is a shield / heat sink.

 

[mgm1986]

not sure glue will work. the wire is a resistor and will possibly put off enough heat to melt glue. the ceramic is a shield / heat sink.

Good point and I'm certainly not sure either! They say the glue is good up to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Maybe I'll hook it up on the bench a few hours and see what happens.

 

[Isaiah Estrada]

Good luck on the wiring. I am also at the same stage with my 68. Not afraid to admit I know nothing about wiring. Thankfully a friend of mine is going to do the job for me

 

[mgm1986]

I finally got back to the fuel gauge issues and wanted to share how I tackled the fix. As always, @Big_John had a great suggestion to using a MeterMatch which seems to be working well.

Per the MeterMatch instructions, it can be modified to output 5v by soldering two connections on the board. This turns the "Alarm"output into a 5v output which is exactly what I needed since the VR for the gauge wasn't working.

I emptied the tank and ran the car until it died. Then I set the lower limit on the gauge and added 6 gallons to get me to the gas station. Filled up at the station and before I left the pump I set the upper limit on the gauge.

It seems to be working well of course I am keeping a six gallon tank from my boat in the trunk just in case.

 

[jmustian]

I have the engine bay wiring mostly buttoned up and to finish testing everything I need to move under the dash so I pulled the cluster out yesterday.

First task. The fuel gauge. I know the sender had been replaced recently (and I know someone tried or did jack the car up by the gas tank ). Anyway, the first thing I did was test the volt limiter and it works, sometimes, if I touch it just right. But mostly it just puts out 12v and I certainly don't want to burn up the fuel gauge.

I read a post where some folks had used MeterMatch to get the gauge working correctly. If I read the instructions and website clearly, since I don't have a temp gauge, I should be able to use the MeterMatch as the 5v supply for the fuel gauge and not worry about replacing the Volt limiter mounted to the back of the cluster.

Before I buy the MeterMatch, can anyone confirm my understanding of what this cool little device can do? Thanks!

I like the meter match but because my fuel quage moves so slow, I've had to adjust it numerous times