1968 440 dying on me

[NY512]

Hi, I am new to this forum. Located in the Netherlands and working on a 1968 New Yorker with standard 440 and original carb. Bought the car some months ago and have driven it for about 100 miles. Then it died. Working on it for several weeks now, replacing or rebuilding a lot of stuff (checked ballast, resistor and points (all replaced earlier and good), replaced rotor, cap, spark plugs and wires, coil, rebuild carb, replaced fuel pomp, etc.). Car starts very hard and needs a lot of attempts, but if it runs, it idles very well. Opening throttle will make it start hesitating, banging and stumbling but after a while this gets better and it operates like it should. Then, out of the blue, after 5-10 minutes of idling, it dies. And no way it will start again. This happens 4 times now, and I have no clue anymore where to look to solve this. Looking for your thoughts on this, because I am out of options at the moment.

 

[detmatt]

Welcome to the site from the Motor City! When you replaced the fuel pump did you check the length of the fuel pump pushrod?

 

[CBODY67]

When it dies, is there fuel in the float bowl of the carb and also fuel in the fuel tank? Just curious.

If there is no fuel in the float bowl, evidenced by the accel pump shot when the car dies, it can possibly be two things. One is the fuel pump pushrod has worn enough to not let the fuel pump get a full stroke to pump gas from the tank to the carburetor. Which can relate to the amount of fuel in the tank.

A side issue can be is the condition of the rubber sections of the fuel line, from the tank to the carburetor. I realize you are in Europe where there can be non-ethanol'd fuels, but the condition of the rubber sections can result in seeps and such of fuel. Other than the obvious pieces at the fuel filter, it might be advisable to replace all of the rubber sections.

At the fuel tank sending unit (being sure the sending unit ground is maintained, either through the normal, special fuel line clamp item or a separate wire to the vehicle body), the section under the rh frt passenger's feet, under the cowl, and the short section that attaches to the fuel pump intake port.

Just some thoughts. Hope this might help.
CBODY67

PS -- You might want to network with some of the people at www.BBTR.de (might need to manually-input that address) who also own C-body Chrysler products in Europe. Seems like there is a Mopar-related repair facility in Germany?

 

[carguy300]

I would pull the bulk head apart and check all connections there, also mine was doing searthat very same thing, 68 300 with 440, and I found the point set was defective. The plastic piece that holds wires and the contacts spring all together was loose causing point gap to close. I put on anew set of points, regapped .019, been running ever since.

 

[halifaxhops]

Also check the condenser hot and see if it shorts. New parts stink for ignition.

 

[NY512]

Thanks for the responses. All rubber hoses are renewed, float chambers are full and pump is at correct volume and pressure. Maybe it is not fuel but electric. I do have a good spark, but might be good to check electrical connections and make sure points are OK and at proper settings. I know vapor lock could be an issue, but at 1-2 degrees Celsius, I don't think it is causing these problems.

 

[Fury1969WI]

I don't see that you mentioned checking the timing. Hard starting when engine is cold could be timing if spark and fuel are otherwise present and accounted for.

Verified choke is operating properly? not sure if that has a choke pull-off...

last thought, confirm fuel rated hoses. regular rubber will quickly degrade and collapse.

good luck!

 

[HotRod20]

I agree with Halifax Hops!! My car had the same symptoms.... dies on the way home from cruise night last year. It had a failed ignition condenser.
Halifax Hops ( Ray Brennan) has NOS points and Condensers for purchase. I bought additional for my spare parts shelf.
My car starts and runs good now.
HotRod20

 

[garyh]

What is the Easiest way to Bench test a Condenser ? I have Analog and Digital Multi Meters.

Also check the condenser hot and see if it shorts. New parts stink for ignition.

 

[halifaxhops]

Quick and dirty is just a ohms check to see if it is shorted hot and cold another one I will link.

 

[halifaxhops]

Remember this is just a vauge way to do a quick check it wount give you the value. You will need a capacitor checker to do it properly.

I get asked this all the time. I have a condenser tester but I do it daily. This will work for you. This is for an analog meter but a digital works--you will see the voltage spike.

Hope this helps

1.) Remove the condenser from the engine (or at least disconnect the lead wire). Note the small metal connector located on the end of the condenser. This connector is the "hot" or power connection. The metal case of the condenser is the grounding point. Discharge the condenser by shorting the lead wire to the case.

2.) Switch the meter to the ohms position. Place the red lead into the "ohm" connector on the meter. Insert the black lead into the "com" or common connector on the meter. Set the resistance range to the highest available setting (if it is selectable). Connect the test leads together and zero the meter. If the meter won't zero, replace the battery. (Yes, an ohm meter has a battery).

3.) Touch the red lead to the hot connector on the condenser. Place the black lead to the metal case on the condenser. The meter's needle should jump slightly to the right (toward 0-ohms), then should drop back to the left towards infinite resistance). Hold the leads in place for 15 to 20 seconds. This action places charge in the condenser. If the test shows any reading other than infinity, the condenser is leaking and needs to be replaced.

4.) Remove the leads and reverse the placement to the condenser. Move the red lead from the hot connector to the metal case, and move the black lead from the metal case to the hot connector. At the moment where both leads are touching the correct points, the meter should jump towards the right. The second time the needle may move twice as far, as this action discharges the condenser. Holding the leads in contact should again result in movement of the needle back toward infinite resistance.

5.) Movement of the meter's needle indicates the condenser is good. If no movement was indicated on the meter in any circumstance, the condenser is bad and must be replaced. Retest the condenser several times for a consistent reading.