1968 Chrysler Newport Faux Touring Project

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Location
Calgary
This has been a car I've owned for many years, and has sat neglected the last 8. It's the same car I had in high school 20+ years ago and have a deep attachment to it. It's time I finally get going on it and take the next year to bring her back.........

It won't be a typical restoration, nor a full on custom build that is finance heavy - just a really solid build that I can enjoy, cruise around in, or abuse just a little. This definitely won't be for most of the people out there, as C-bodies seem to always be pigeon holed as a "gramps car", this definitely won't be that either.

Anyway, moving on; I'll update with pictures as I am able.... For now this is how she sits today.
 
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Started working on the brake conversion to a manual 4 wheel disc system. Only assembling the package components now; sand blasting parts, refinishing them, and allowing sufficient cure time.

1974 Newport Front Disc Brakes (for now)
1988 Diplomat Master Cylinder
Mopar Performance 2-bolt adapter
Mopar Performance adjustable Pushrod
Earls Braided Stainless Hoses

More still needed, this is all I have currently.

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Looks like a nice beginning. Let us see step by step pictures and the problems that you encounter with the brake conversion. A lot of guys here would like to find and easier way to convert to disc brakes.
 
Great that your getting to work on your car, love seeing pic's of progress on projects keep them coming
 
Watching you put on 74 disc brakes will be educational unless you plan on using '73 spindles.
 
I was waiting for you to chime in with something Commando1 (this car is the same as the one in your signature in fact; I took my cop wheels off for the chrome wheels)....... I plan on fabricating a few things for the car........ Everything you see is temporary - I will be retrofitting/fabricating SRT8 rotors/calipers within a couple of years. For now it's a combination of parts - I'll let you know how it goes

This is very much a non-factory build, I tried to upload an idling video so the cam and engine tune could be heard - it definitely isn't your grampa'a C-Body. I love how she sounds......... 28-3000 stall and 3.91 are so much fun in her
 
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I did prep and clear a few aluminum items a couple of weeks ago too. This fall I'll pull the engine and get a few new bits & pieces on her I have been accumulating over the years (ones I had previously intended to start working on it).

I thought I had pics of the Aluminum Water Pump Housing & Aluminum Water Pump sprayed and hanging but they seem to have disappeared from my phone
 
Nice Newport. Looks to be an interesting build, and your lucky to have your high school cruiser back on the road. Good job. More pics when you get a chance.
 
This weekend proved trying to get anything big started on the car. Between children, yardwork, and home reno projects there wasn't much time.

The only work completed was the conversion to electronic ignition - I have always run points on this car, there had never been a problem with the points/condenser so k kept it. I bought the electronic ignition conversion kit just before I parked it, so i thought it was about time.

I think when I pull the engine I may replace the coil with one that has a better spark and saturation time. Then a rewire of the ignition system to provide 12 volts to the coil full time.

I picked up up a set of Taylor 10.4mm wires a few years ago for it too, which I'll fit over the winter. I've used these on a few builds previously with success, why try something new if these work. I've never had a 5/7 spark problem with these.
 
I understand aboutthe life being a part of slowing us down, my Polara is stalled right now with a number of projects on the go. I should be back at it soon though!
 
I had started to refinish the trunk a few weekends ago, I hadn't posted anything because I took less pictures than I should have and the ones I took were worse than expected.

This really was a clean up of a small redo maybe 13 years ago. The first iteration was a quick clean up including a scrape, scuff, and respray with a red oxide primer. I then built in some side panels, and applied a black audio grade carpet.

This go round was to scrape out the existing and dried out sea sealer, then a 4" twisted wire cup wheel on an angle grinder to strip it bareand see what I'm working with. This had revealed a few holes in the passenger trunk extension and one hole in the pan over the frame on the driver side. Worse than I'd like but better than siting for almost 9 years could have been.

Lucky for me I have a complete and rust free, 4 door parts car (with DS front damage) that I can swap in panels from to restore the area. The plan is to move the battery to the trunk behind the passenger wheelwell, reinstall the subwoofer in a custom box under the package tray, and the amplifier for the entire stereo in a panel on the driver side.

The whole trunk will be a custom built pro-touring/hot rod style that may or may not include a polished fuel cell. I'm assembling a fuel system now that will eventually dictate the tank/cell situation.

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Was this a manual brake car to begin with? If not you will need to find a manual brake pedal assembly. The pedal ratio is different on a power brake car and you can't generate enough force to properly operate a manual system.

It's not my car but I wouldn't waste any $$ putting rear discs on it. Unless you are going to track days at Watkins Glen with it there is pretty much zero braking advantage to them. The 11" rear drums in proper working order are more than capable of locking up the rear tires. Rear brakes only account for about 30% of the cars brake force.

The 74 brake hardware will work as it is the same from 73 until pickups and vans went to 5x5" wheels in the early 80's but the spindles won't fit your control arms. If you can't find 73 spindles you can use 69-72 and Dr. Diff sells a spindle sleeve kit so the bigger bearings in the 74 rotors will fit or you can just pay the extra cost of the new unicast 69-72 rotors. For the amount of miles these cars get driven the extra $100 for the early rotors is probably a wash unless you already have new 74's or you plan on driving thru a few sets of brakes.

Kevin
 
No, this is currently not a power disc car - ALL needed items will be sourced before the brakes go on - BTW hydraulic and mechanical efficiencies can be calculated and the correct parts assembled for any build with factory or non-factory components. As I said before this is not going to be a restoration and there will be a lot fabrication over time.

Being able to "lock up the rears" is not a measure of a great braking system. It does not scrub off speed effectively, and with the compounds of newer tires there has been an increase at the ability and efficiency of brake systems (tires included). The goal is to have a brake system that greatly exceeds factory specifications and DOES not lock the wheels, but effectively and very quickly converts speed to heat/friction for a controlled and predictable stopping scenario - repeatedly and efficiently.

As for rear discs - yes, I've heard it many times. My reasons for the conversion are long, mainly I want to have an SRT setup because I like it, and they are truly like nothing else (I've owned a few SRT vehicles) other than a carbon/ceramic exotic setup - which I have no interest in for this vehicle. The other main reason for the rear discs are the wheels & tires. The reciprocating mass of a 22" X 10" wheel and tire assembly with a 30" +/- diameter is significantly more than the factory wheels & tires and will easily overheat an organic shoe causing cracking and delamination. Its about safety, and I personally would rather over do it than hope that the engineers at Chrysler planned for the increased demand 60 odd years ago when the rear brake design was applied to these differentials.

The other reason - it looks cool (and they work)
 
Is there anyway to actually imbed an iPhone video? I have the one idling one id like to get up here. I posted it on Instagram, but that doesn't do any good for the forum!
 



Lets see if that works.........

I LOVE how she sounds......... After the old gas was burned off and the electronic ignition went in - the slight burn off of the moisture disappeared that you can see slightly in. The exhaust......... Stored almost 9 years outside uncovered; what else would you expect?!?!
 
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I'm actually closer to central Calgary, that's at my parents acreage closer to Airdrie. My work puts me downtown most of the time, though an acrege would be nice the commute would get to me. I grew up near Delcour on an acreage and didn't mind it when I was a teen; though maybe one day again if I end up able.
 
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