1968 Fury 3 hardtop what's it worth

[Mopower71]

Hope this is the right place to post this.
Went and looked at a 1968 Fury 3 2dr hardtop today.
Car has been sitting for 9 years, but starts with fuel dumped down carb.
Has holes below back window, and in the trunk floor. Inner quarter panels seem ok but the water is starting to rust the outer side. No apparent rust through anywhere else in car.
Vinyl top is gone and where it is still over the rear side of roof seems rusty underneath. Has small dent in quarter panel in front of wheel. Interior is not bad, front seat is ripped, looks like the stitching let go. Ties look new but are cracked bad and not road worthy.
1968 Plymouth Fury 3 2dr hardtop, fender skirts. Green exterior, green interior, black top which is mostly gone.
318, auto trans, 8 3/4" rear.
A/c, power steering, manual brakes.
I will upload the only pictures i have when i get them from my phone.
Thanks
Norm

 

[Mopower71]

Here is a rear side view, and the fender tag.
First time posting here but have been a member over at the a body site for years.

 

[BeatersRus]

i bought one for 700 bucks about a month ago,same condition same color.
came with a limited slip and a bb trans,great glass,so so interior and decent body.
also had a clear title.
However,the roof took an entire can of bondo to fill it...and around 20? hours total work.
and we will still have to have a new vinyl roof installed somewheres down the road.

so if your roof is bad,id advise you to Seriously think about it before you buy it for a project.
that alone was a pita.

 

[Knebel]

I have seen some interesting fury's for sale all over the internet, it appears that prices are going up (decent barnfind condition with rust and crappy paint for 4k!? And nobody knows how the engine/suspension is). Seeing that, I wonder if I could get 10k for mine, even with a torn front seat and a cracked windshield,it's crazy.

 

[Rwc]

I think you have to decide if it's THE car you want. And accept it will be a money loser and do it. If it isn't THE car it sounds like a lot of work. My .02

 

[saylor]

take 2 grand cash and start handing him 100s until he says ok, or you hit 2 grand. every time you hand over another hundy, point out something else you have to fix.

somewhere in this process you get the keys or your stack of money back.

 

[Mopower71]

He also has this . Has a 440

 

[BeatersRus]

thats a cool car,but let me give you some advice.
first thought comes to mind is,man that thing is gonna cost Large to get paint and body.

soooo,whatever car you are interested in,
buy it for the Best Body you can find and make sure its a Complete car!

mechanicals are so much Easier than bodywork.......
and tracking down one year only/specific c body parts is Not a joy...js.

 

[65sporty]

He also has this . Has a 440

That looks like it had a fire, that would be a lot of work.

 

[saforwardlook]

Wouldn't you want a fast top instead of that roof?

 

[Mopower71]

That looks like it had a fire, that would be a lot of work.

Yes it did.
Carburetor and valve covers are melted, everything from firewall to back seat is gone

 

[FURYGT]

Wouldn't you want a fast top instead of that roof?

Show the hardtops some love... Many of us like them just as much if not more than the fast top body style, which can look fat in the area of the C Pillar and quarter panel. I do own a VIP fast top along with my 2 Sport Fury hardtops.

Bill

 

[Knebel]

I gotta say I ike the Hardtop roofline better than the fasstop. Fasttop looks very "bulky" to me.

 

[Mopower71]

Couple more pictures

 

[Knebel]

I personally would walk away from that one. If you have the capability to fix the rust and all that I'd offer no more than $900.. if the interior is okay.

 

[fury fan]

I don't know what the supply is like in the OP's area, but 2-dr pre-72 C-bodies are scarce around here, at least cars that are for sale. CL folks here would ask $3-4000 for a 4-dr like that (or more!), and the listings sometimes are 'deleted by owner', but don't know what that means for a sale.

It's a 2-dr and looks really honest and straight aside from the roof and trunk rust. Not worth restoring to any level, but worth fixing up and enjoying for awhile.

Polish the paint a bit, strip off the vinyl top, and paint the roof with satin rustoleum (use a foam roller). Clean the interior, clean the vinyl inside with creamy GoJo followed by some armor-all-type stuff. You'll spend a solid weekend and have $50 more invested in that effort.

THEN evaluate it, prep the mechanicals for safety and reliability, and enjoy driving it for awhile. Take care of the car, but be cautious of how much you spend on it, as you'll never get it all back. But if you keep it for 2-3 years and sell it for $1000 less than you have in it, you had a classic car for a few years for $1000 outlay. Not a bad way to go.

Based on pics and what you describe, in my area I'd try to buy it for $1000 and tell the seller it's based on the rust in a bad location. If the seller can convince me to give more by having it running and allow me to do an oil pressure and compression check, he might get me up to $1500 or so.

But aside from all that, the mere prospect of seeing that car, inspecting it, thinking about the possibilities, the potential, would give me a car-guy woody. I do love the hunt oh so much. It's after I catch the fox that my momentum goes to crap.

 

[BeatersRus]

whatever rust you Can see under that top,multiply it times ten and thats how bad it Really is.

 

[Mopower71]

I don't know what the supply is like in the OP's area, but 2-dr pre-72 C-bodies are scarce around here, at least cars that are for sale. CL folks here would ask $3-4000 for a 4-dr like that (or more!), and the listings sometimes are 'deleted by owner', but don't know what that means for a sale.

It's a 2-dr and looks really honest and straight aside from the roof and trunk rust. Not worth restoring to any level, but worth fixing up and enjoying for awhile.

Polish the paint a bit, strip off the vinyl top, and paint the roof with satin rustoleum (use a foam roller). Clean the interior, clean the vinyl inside with creamy GoJo followed by some armor-all-type stuff. You'll spend a solid weekend and have $50 more invested in that effort.

THEN evaluate it, prep the mechanicals for safety and reliability, and enjoy driving it for awhile. Take care of the car, but be cautious of how much you spend on it, as you'll never get it all back. But if you keep it for 2-3 years and sell it for $1000 less than you have in it, you had a classic car for a few years for $1000 outlay. Not a bad way to go.

Based on pics and what you describe, in my area I'd try to buy it for $1000 and tell the seller it's based on the rust in a bad location. If the seller can convince me to give more by having it running and allow me to do an oil pressure and compression check, he might get me up to $1500 or so.

But aside from all that, the mere prospect of seeing that car, inspecting it, thinking about the possibilities, the potential, would give me a car-guy woody. I do love the hunt oh so much. It's after I catch the fox that my momentum goes to crap.

C body's are quite scarce here. Don't usually see any around here.
He's asking over twice what everyone here is suggesting.
Cool car, and the picture in my head of what it could look like. But then I start thinking it been sitting in the same spot for 9 years. 13000 miles on it. Wonder how much longer things like the transmission will last.
And when I start adding up everything ,like a floor pan and extension, the pan is around 400 and 80 for extension. Then brakes, brake lines, wheel cylinders, master cylinder. Just to make sure it stops. 4 tires. Front suspension rebuild. It starts to get out of hand.

 

[Mopower71]

whatever rust you Can see under that top,multiply it times ten and thats how bad it Really is.

It is soft and crunchy under what's left between side and back window.

 

[fury fan]

Where are you located, Mopower?

It starts to get out of hand.

Yes, it sure does, quite easily.

I think we're all justified at standing behind the group consensus, based on what it needs. It has roofrust, the bane of any classic car. It's nobody's fault, it is what it is, and the damage is already done.

You should explain this picture to him - the rust has bubbled enough that it has popped the mounting pin on this molding, and a screw was installed. Then the molding seems to have cracked thru after that. That can only be a bad thing...