1968 NewYorker engine running diagnosis

[cbarge]

Thanks everyone, I didn't see any wire issues, could I just wrap over the harness portion which is already wrapped just to be safe?, I'll buy an ignition switch, Do I need the whole switch or just the housing and put the key cylinder back in, Been way too many years since I've replaced a switch, is there a small pin that has too come out. John, I'll replace the ballast resistor

Just the housing. You can swap your key cylinder.
But before going under the dash, as I and others suggested you can test for power from the switch to ballast resistor and coil under the hood.
I rather open the harness and inspect for any breaks or chafing then wrap it up.
Not that hard but yes time consuming yet worth saving a call to the fire dept.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Thanks everyone, I didn't see any wire issues, could I just wrap over the harness portion which is already wrapped just to be safe?, I'll buy an ignition switch, Do I need the whole switch or just the housing and put the key cylinder back in, Been way too many years since I've replaced a switch, is there a small pin that has too come out. John, I'll replace the ballast resistor

Wrapping the 12v feed to the coil will help preclude that. If its insulation is brittle and cracking, just replace it rather than wrapping it.

Yes, tighten up spade connections to the ballast resistor, and put a new ballast on.

Yes, there is a pin on the key cylinder - I believe you have to put it in the accessory position to press the pin and pull the cylinder. So, just buy a new switch without a cylinder and swap yours in.

New regulator won't hurt, and doing the bulkhead bypass for the red and black feed wires coming from the amp gauge and going to the alternator and the stud on the starter relay with a new fusible link is VERY important.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Thanks everyone, I didn't see any wire issues, could I just wrap over the harness portion which is already wrapped just to be safe?, I'll buy an ignition switch, Do I need the whole switch or just the housing and put the key cylinder back in, Been way too many years since I've replaced a switch, is there a small pin that has too come out. John, I'll replace the ballast resistor

I"m updating the work I've done. I changed the point/condenser, coil, both end connections to the coil. I started the car, run 1 minute, died in the garage, w/o doing anything, when I mean it shut off, its clean cut off, no sputtering or dieseling. I restarted, ran great 5 minutes, died, restarted, ran fine, took it out for a drive (10 miles) ran great, nailed it and the car ran perfect, came home and shut it off, restarted it w/o issue, the only thing i notice different is the amp gauge shows a higher charging rate. Any thoughts? I appreciate the time.

1st I would replace the ignition switch last. Meaning as a last resort. From the symptoms you describe, I don't think it's the ignition switch. Also, 74 years old is going to be no fun getting on the floor to replace an ignition switch.

2nd I once used my multimeter and was sure there was voltage drop across the ignition switch. However it turned out to be low voltage draw and shorts in underhood ignition components. BTW Those problems cleared up enough for the car to start normally once the engine was warm and resistance decreased by electrical current running through the components.

3rd I advise you take your multimeter and measure charge at the battery while you think the ammeter is overcharging. In other words you could rev the engine at the carburetor, and watch the voltmeter. If it doesn't go over 15 V it may not be overcharging, although the ammeter bypass and electronic voltage regulator are good ideas.

 

[GOLDMYN]

thanks everyone, I'll update