For Sale 1969 Chrysler 300 convertible

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Well, guess I'll be sticking around awhile! Went back and looked at this car, figured for a numbers matching car, and at 12k, not too bad of a deal. Drove about 30 miles home, 88* outside, mix of freeways, city streets...drove like a champ! No wandering, stops straight, doesn't pull to left or right when cruising. Manually shifted car couple times....soooo smooth, don't even feel the shift points. No smoke when started, or when getting on it that I could see or smell. Miles are at 67000 approximately. Not sure how accurate, but shows that on title, and old maintance records seem to back that up.

Relooked at rust areas, only rust on rear lower corners where convertible top drains from top I think. No rust showing from the paint side, but backside is not pretty, (see pics). Looks like someone welded in patch panels, but didn't cut out the old stuff very good. No rust seen in frame, floor pans, front fenders or doors that I could easily see. There is a small bubble on right rear above trim over the rear tire. Rear springs are nearly flat/straight...no arch. Got to fix that.

Pics...or it didn't happen! This is how I got the car, I didn't do any of the things like painting motor etc, this is how it came. I will attempt to fix any flaws pointed out. Thanks!!

And that old Dodge better be gone soon! I need the space!!



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Looking thru the stack of records. Have copies of title from all previous owners. I thought Phoenix was in AZ, guess there's one in NY too. lol Stack of records for maintence, parts repairs etc. Have original build sheet and copy also, original keys. Pretty excited!!

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I have covercraft and iron shield on 4 cars right now and i like the iron shield for the snow and rain the best. The covercraft breathes better but isnt as waterproof IMHO.
 
Have a cover craft on my 69 300 vert. fits real well and appears to be durable.

For which model did you select on their website? They don't list for a 300 vert. Other models they do, but not vert. Someone here was kind enough to PM me what would work, haven't had a chance to look it up yet. Was playing with the new car lol.
 
For which model did you select on their website? They don't list for a 300 vert. Other models they do, but not vert. Someone here was kind enough to PM me what would work, haven't had a chance to look it up yet. Was playing with the new car lol.
To confirm its correct do a second search for a Chrysler Newport. By the way a 2dr Hard top version will work fine.
 
I have one on my '70 300 convertible. They have one model for a 69-71 Chrysler. There's a little extra material at the rear of the top, but otherwise it fits like a glove.

Best bet is to call them.
 
To confirm its correct do a second search for a Chrysler Newport. By the way a 2dr Hard top version will work fine.
Yes, I did so and it fits real well. Top up or down, doesn't matter. But, if you're parked outside, do so with the top up. Otherwise, the cover will fill with leaves or whatever else may be dropping. I learned that years ago!!!
 
Well....while under the car trying to trace some wires, I found some very well hidden airlines to a set or air shocks! Put some air in, could raise car very high in back. I know, I know....not a long term fix. I just mentioned it because some where in this thread, or maybe another one, someone mentioned air shocks.

I'll start a new thread if necessary after reading about wiring etc. Issue is have L/R rear signals, backups, flasher, brake lights all work....except no tail lights. All fuses good, checked with ohm meter. Took all bulbs out, not sure if they are correct part numbers, have to research. BUT...when I put bulbs all back in, the bulbs are all very dim. Weird. I need to clean all the contact points for sure, will get new bulbs just because. I briefly researched on my cell this issue, but hard to do on a cell. Motor running, voltage at battery was above 13vdc. Then, starting from far right bulb....take it out, the others get brighter...take the next bulb out...the remaining bulbs get even brighter...and so on and so on.

Now that I'm on laptop, I'll research some more. Thanks!

oh....and I ordered a 'vert boot from Legendary last night.
 
Ok....somebody forgot to tell me the lamp housing are only grounded when installed!!!!!!!! lol

So...I'm back at square one, which isn't a bad thing, all my turn signals, brake lights, backup lights work. Just no go on the tail lights. I could of sworn they were working when I inspected the car. Have no voltage. When I take the center pin, (there's only 1 pin), I put positive lead on the center pin, the other lead to ground...no voltage.
 
Figured it out. I knew one of the previous owners put a toggle switch under the dash because the main light switch wasn't working. I ran 12v right to pin 2 on the 6 pin connector behind driver kick panel, and tail lights worked. I have to get up under the dash and see if OEM switch is really bad, or what's really going on. At least I know the wiring to taillights is good.
 
If that car is as straight and slick as the pictures, you did OK. If the rust pics you showed is all it has, don't worry about it. Those repairs could've been done in 1982 for all we know. You're not going to drive it in the rain or snow, so it's only going to get wet when you wash it. It'll last a long time. If things do get worse, those pictures only justify some skilled patching, not full-bore panel replacement.

The wrinkled door panel vinyl might be easy to fix with some re-stretching and contact cement. Be careful taking them off in case the clips are ready to pull out of the hardboard. If they are, you can cut new holes nearby with a dremel and measure carefully and put new holes in the door for the clips to hit.

I always take my panels off and paint the backsides with polyurethane to prevent further wrinkling.

FWIW, the Fusey bulb housings (on my 70 Fury, at least) ground thru the crimp of the socket, to the housing, to the car, so easy to get a weak ground that causes weirdness. Sounds like you found your problem in a PO modification, but something to remember in the coming years. Simplest way is to run separate ground wires to the body, and you can attach them to the sockets via a hoseclamp (it doesn't have to be fancy to be a dependable solution).
 
Thanks Fury! The rear lights do ground when plugged into their sockets on the body...like yours do. The panel is on my list of to do's! Car cover came today. Have a twin snorkel set up coming from a good member here. Looking for a set of correct Hump exhaust manifolds.

I hate idiot lights, so ordered these from Summit last night. Some may not like after market gauges. But idiot lights only alert after damage has occurred. Gauges at least give a better indicator of what is going on. This series of SW gauges is a throw back to 60's muscle cars. This series looks period correct I think.

Bezel matches the finned Mopar valve covers I realized after I ordered it. Kinda cool

OTB Gear Gauge Panels 6126
Stewart Warner Custom Deluxe Green Line Analog Gauges 306BB
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-375T
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-311CC
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-82179
 
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