1969 Chrysler Imperial 2dr - $2500

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The offer I have is $1800 including all except the insurance and the Tax in Rottrdam. I gonna pick up the car by myself in Rotterdamm with a trailer.
Maybe this one car is sold for a fair price, but this is the general price here ... And the most cars are not as good as this might be.
 
The offer I have is $1800 including all except the insurance and the Tax in Rottrdam. I gonna pick up the car by myself in Rotterdamm with a trailer.
Maybe this one car is sold for a fair price, but this is the general price here ... And the most cars are not as good as this might be.

1.800$ for everything? Not in container !

Carsten
 
He talked about Ro-Ro erlier in the thread, dont know why you want to do that to youre car.....
Or maybe he dont know how that works?

don't know. Ro Ro is good for modern cars but classics? Puuh.
 
That may be true but when does anybody get back what they put into one of these cars? Be it full size Mopar, Buick, Mercury, Olds one should never expect to recoup all they put in.

You are absolutly right and I know what you mean.
Some things can be hard to compare between the US and -in this case- germany.
Any freshly imported cars have to pass the TÜV, a safety inspection. But it is tough to pass and way stronger than most can imagine. Cars aren't allowed to have rust holes at all in example. Saftywise all rubbers of the front end need to be nice, too.
The dark blue 71 Imp is all original, unrestored, no rust, no rust repair in the past. But it wasn't maintained in the past because it was rarly driven in its last 20(?) years. So it needed all to be freshend up. That is what Thomas did. And the car has german inspection (TÜV) now. That makes it lot more valuable than any fresh import which hasn't been redone technically. When I wrote he has a minimum 15k$ in it it was just a quick count of the minimum I know of, it can be 20k$, too. He would need to chime in.

Carsten
 
As I said, this is my first classic car and the first time I try to ship one.
I want to benefit from your experience. Carsten, I would be happy for every hint I can get!

I pulled out the points you've listed in a previous post:

container, inland transport, exportpaperwork, unloading and setting, importpaperwork, transported from the harbor to your home

importduties, seefraight insurance


All this points are listed in my offer, if there is anything missing, please tell me.


Here is the offer I got:

Pick up in Collegeville/PA

$280,00

Handling / Dokumentation / Loading / Exportpaperwork and Shipping to Rotterdam:

$800,00


Proportionate port costs / Container transport to our warehouse, unpacking and importpaperwork:

$640,00

$1720

---

Importduties (6% according to the value of the vehicle. Purchase contract + freight costs)


$2000 + $1720 = $3720

6% = ~$300


---


Seefraight insurance offer:


version A (full coverage) Premium in % of the value


a) Transportation in the USA to harbor 0,3%
b) seefraight port to port (Marine Insurance) 0,7%
c) Delivery in Europas 0,3%
d) minimum EUR 25,- (~$35)


1,3% = ~$50


And it's in a container, not Ro/Ro!
Container transport to our warehouse

I pick it up in Rotterdam by myself with a trailer.


To pass the technical inspection (TÜV) is not that hard. All the secutity relevant parts like brakes, lights and suspension have to work faultless and there shall be no "rusted through" frameparts. (carrying parts?)

To get a historical licence plate is a lot more difficult because the car have to be in worthy of preservation condition. That means, no rust holes, stock wheels, authentic paint, etc.
The historical license plate is interesting because taxes are no longer calculated by cubic capacity and emission. It's capped to ~$257.
 
I sure do respect what you guys have to do for the love of the cars because I'd be trying to do the same thing if I were overseas.
 
Yes, there obviously is c body love across the pond if someone is willing to go thru all those steps to acquire a car. I'm spoiled complaining about grabbing a car that was barely an hour ride from me. Tanked her up and drove home.
 
On the one hand I wish it were that easy. But on the other hand, if it were that easy here to get a US classic, they were not as this rare as they are.

My daily driver is a VW Golf. Enough normal car for a whole life ;)
 
They are indeed rare here. I hardly ever see ANY old mopar during my travels.....A,B,E and esp. Cs. I always get a crowd when stopping for a simple tank a gas, I'm sure anyone with a classic car does. Folks here are nostalgic for that sort of thing. I would agree though these cars are probably even rarer across the Atlantic.
 
On my yearly vacation, I see a lot classic cars in America, but I'm searching for them all day ;) Maybe, thats not representative. But you're right, I don't see Mopars as much as Ford or Chevys.

Here in Germany, you'll find more european classic cars. Specialy around Frankfurt, you find a lot British cars like Austin or MG.
 
On my yearly vacation, I see a lot classic cars in America, but I'm searching for them all day ;) Maybe, thats not representative. But you're right, I don't see Mopars as much as Ford or Chevys.

Here in Germany, you'll find more european classic cars. Specialy around Frankfurt, you find a lot British cars like Austin or MG.
Sadly, mopars are less seen then Chevies and tractors. It is probably just a numbers "thing". More of them than us.
 
Twice a year there is a white 69 Polara hardtop parked in a street on my way to the office during early morning hours from somebody who stays there overnight somewhere. That's about it except for my own car.
 
To pass the technical inspection (TÜV) is not that hard. All the secutity relevant parts like brakes, lights and suspension have to work faultless and there shall be no "rusted through" frameparts. (carrying parts?)

To get a historical licence plate is a lot more difficult because the car have to be in worthy of preservation condition. That means, no rust holes, stock wheels, authentic paint, etc.
The historical license plate is interesting because taxes are no longer calculated by cubic capacity and emission. It's capped to ~$257.

They really don't want you to have an older car over there, do they? No rust holes? On a 40+ year old car? Authentic paint? What exactly does that mean legally? Stock wheels after 40+ years? Worthy of preservation? Who gets to make the call on that?

All scary ideas for me and all of us here. There are those who definitely do not like our older cars in this country and complain that our 0.5 % of cars are responsible for 90% of smog emissions. They would like nothing better than seeing ours off the road and crushed.
 
They really don't want you to have an older car over there, do they? No rust holes? On a 40+ year old car? Authentic paint? What exactly does that mean legally? Stock wheels after 40+ years? Worthy of preservation? Who gets to make the call on that?

All scary ideas for me and all of us here. There are those who definitely do not like our older cars in this country and complain that our 0.5 % of cars are responsible for 90% of smog emissions. They would like nothing better than seeing ours off the road and crushed.

same overhere. The green party likes to give us a lot of trouble. And restrictions. Taxes are paid by the emission of the car and cubic inches. Luckily with a classic car liscense plate you only have to pay EUR 192 (around 257$).

Every car which has never been registered in germany before has to go through a special treatment (§21). They will check it extremly carefully and usually want a lot of attention. Tires will need a DOT number, no working sidemarkers allowed, front end rubbers, bushings etc need to be in excellent shape (which they mostly aren't after 40 years on a c-body). Again no open rustholes are allowed. Did I mention it is not allowed to loose oil and make oilspills ? Then you have to do a §21 (classic car status). The car needs to be in nice shape to get the vote.

Carsten
 
Depends also in Germany from state to state or even from one to another test installation. They're not that strict where I go to, never had any problems even with not perfect but still acceptable bushings, age of tires is of no relevance if they don't show their age, however I'm pretty concerned with relevant safety issues myself, never had any trouble and always pass inspection first time. You have to stick more to originality or period correct changes as it used to be in the past if you want to have the historic plates, no tech inspection however for the red collector plates where I live, you're responsible though if anything happens and things are not up to the rules.
 
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They really don't want you to have an older car over there, do they? No rust holes? On a 40+ year old car? Authentic paint? What exactly does that mean legally? Stock wheels after 40+ years? Worthy of preservation? Who gets to make the call on that?

They won’t classic cars, but just historical valuable (their world)...

For example, these cars will NEVER get a "H" license plate!
2005-nopi-big.jpggreen_hornet_1.jpg

But these:
69_Imperial_2.jpg71_chrysler_newport_gold_02.jpg
See the "H" after the number on the license plate? That means he already got it.

Here are 2 of my favorites: (They first already have one)
1969-imperial-lebaron-1_Bildgröße ändern.jpg# 1970_Chrysler_Imperial_LeBaron_-_Flickr_-_denizen24_Bildgröße ändern.jpg

I found a checklist, that explains what is required. There is something new! Here's a small part of it.

- a minimum age of 30 years is required
- All paint now accepted, but no "painbrush"
- Original patina, small scratchesis and dents in a small number are accepted.
- more than surface rust is not accepted. Rusted through parts like doors, fenders or hoods are not accepted.
- convertion rebuilds from coupe to convertible are not accepted.
- GFRP replacement parts are not accepted
- any kind of accidental damages are not accepted
- Generally, the original appearance must be maintained
- only original frames, no replacementparts
- no patchwork
- original chassis is required
- no lower or higher suspension setting
- only engines out of the production series, no crate engines
- only original carb or injection
- a transmission change from automatic to manual is allowed
- changes on the security parts like an diskbrake upgrade are allowed if whey're "authentic"
- only stock wheels are accepted

and so on...

I hope I've translated this points understandable...

2005-nopi-big.jpg


green_hornet_1.jpg


69_Imperial_2.jpg


71_chrysler_newport_gold_02.jpg


# 1970_Chrysler_Imperial_LeBaron_-_Flickr_-_denizen24_Bildgröße ändern.jpg


1969-imperial-lebaron-1_Bildgröße ändern.jpg
 
The last 4 pics were like a calming tonic after seeing the first two...well one actually. The Green Hornet Imp has an excuse....movie star.
 
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