1969 Fury I turn signals were slowing down now dont work

[Stuka_Mensch]

Hey all on my 69 Fury I, my flashers work as normal but a week after a relay was added that stopped the huge power draw by the turn signals, the turn signals started flashing and clicking slower, now they don't work at all, either left or right. Very rare one might flicker on once. Any advice on this issue? Couldn't find anything when I searched. Thanks for your help in advance!

 

[Welder guy]

Tell us about the huge power draw and where the relay was installed to stop the power draw . It seems your issue started after the relay was installed. You could replace the signal light flasher with a new digital flasher , they work with low voltage situations.

 

[Stuka_Mensch]

Tell us about the huge power draw and where the relay was installed to stop the power draw . It seems your issue started after the relay was installed. You could replace the signal light flasher with a new digital flasher , they work with low voltage situations.

The draw the turn signal wouldnt work at all, activating a turn signal would make every light on the car dim, but the hazards were working, I'd have to ask the shop about the relay Ik if the new issue has anything to do with his work he'll make it right.

 

[Welder guy]

MyMopar You would benefit from a shop manual wiring diagram from mymopar . If my memory serves me right, the hazard lights are a separate circuit From the signal lights. They would still work when you have problems with the signal lights

 

[Stuka_Mensch]

MyMopar You would benefit from a shop manual wiring diagram from mymopar . If my memory serves me right, the hazard lights are a separate circuit From the signal lights. They would still work when you have problems with the signal lights

Awesome thank you!

 

['66 Fury I]

A relay does not eliminate power demand. Think of the starter. It is the heaviest load in the whole system. If it did not recieve that heavy current, it could not crank the engine. That circuit contains a starter relay which lessens the load in the starter switch and, along with the solenoid, provides a shorter, more direct path for that heavy current from the battery to the starter motor.
You can, howrver, reduce the power demand of your signal lights by replacing the incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. There are several good threads on that subject. Lindsay

 

[volksworld]

a normal flasher relay has a bimetallic strip that heats up and bends to open its contacts...when it cools it bends the other way and closes the contacts...this is why the bulb blinks off and on...generally LEDs wont draw enough current to heat up the strip and they wont flash...therefore they require a special flasher...i've even seen some cheap incandescents that cause the same problem, had cars where the cure was throw away the brand new chinese bulbs and put in used originals....I'd be looking for a bad body ground or corroded/melted bulkhead fitting

 

[Stuka_Mensch]

a normal flasher relay has a bimetallic strip that heats up and bends to open its contacts...when it cools it bends the other way and closes the contacts...this is why the bulb blinks off and on...generally LEDs wont draw enough current to heat up the strip and they wont flash...therefore they require a special flasher...i've even seen some cheap incandescents that cause the same problem, had cars where the cure was throw away the brand new chinese bulbs and put in used originals....I'd be looking for a bad body ground or corroded/melted bulkhead fitting

The original issue with some of the lighting like the dash lights was a ground we'll check it out!

 

[Welder guy]

I’ve had grounding issues at the tail light . The metal tail light sockets can become loose or corroded due to moisture getting past the tail light gasket between the plastic lens and the metal back of the tail light assembly. You might wanna take this opportunity to remove the tail lights from your car clean them all up. Be sure to clean up the bulb sockets before installation into the tail light assembly .

 

[Big_John]

I'm not understanding the "relay for turn signals" part of this. Wiring in a relay for the turn signals because of a "high draw" makes zero sense. The incandescent bulbs, lets' say three were 1 in the front and 2 in the back would only have a draw of just over 6 amps for all three. A typical relay is 2 amps.

By any chance, is the flasher being called a "relay" here?

If this shop told you that you needed a relay for a heavy draw on the turn signals, it's time to find another shop.

 

[mopar preferred]

I'm thinking the "heavy draw" was determined by the shop because the lights dimmed when the turn signals were activated.
Wonder if that wasn't due to a low charge rate from the alternator?
Now the lights not functioning because of further degradation of the power supply or bad ground not allowing enough voltage to them?
Does everything go through the ammeter in '69?
Just a wild guess.

 

[Stuka_Mensch]

Just replaced the battery everythings working BUT the blinkers will slow down if somethings on like the headlights, and its lost all power completely twice after the new battery and cleaning the terminals. Will update once it gets looked at

 

['66 Fury I]

Is the battery negative grounded to the engine and the engine grounded to the firewall (body) behind the right cylinder head? If so, is the ground to the body good? I have solved problems in the past by replacing a frayed cable and/or cleaning up connections at this area. On one car, I even added a cable in this location to ensure good grounding. Many baffling electrical problems are due to faulty grounding. Just a thought. Lindsay

 

[Big_John]

Just replaced the battery everythings working BUT the blinkers will slow down if somethings on like the headlights, and its lost all power completely twice after the new battery and cleaning the terminals. Will update once it gets looked at

It's time to break out the voltmeter and check voltage at the battery when this is happening.

Now that we hear a bit more of what is going on, it's somewhat typical to have the flasher slow down when the battery voltage drops. With some cars, at idle, the voltage drops because the charging system isn't carrying the load. If you have the headlights on (are they stock headlights??) that's a heavy draw at idle.

So... The thing to do is check battery voltage without the car running. Next check at idle, no lights on. Next check with a "fast idle" with the engine speed up a little. Then do the same idle and fast idle check with the headlights on. It should be 13-14 volts.

I'm betting the issue is your charging system.