Just started removing plastic covers and things last night. Dash pad needs to be removed…someone did it before did a terrible job fixing dash pad and unfortunately wound up breaking lots of the plastic dash pieces around speedo and under steering wheel. I’m going to try and straighten all this out. It’s a factory A/C car. Looks like I now have to remove inner glove box to get up in there to remove dash pad nuts on passenger side. I have inner cigarette tray out. I can feel some dash pad nuts up in there. I think what’s left is around speedometer area now. Believe I have to drop that down…maybe completely take out? To get to nuts on dash pad around driver side area. Sound about right to you guys that have done this before? Maybe there’s a video or procedure on it? Thank you, Bob
1969 Polara dash pad removal
- Thread starter furyfever
- Start date
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
Hey there. There is some Phillips screws holding the pad to the dash frame. You should be able to pull the cluster and the black metal surround that goes around it, that will reveal them. There's 3 or 4 if my memory is correct.
Also there's 2-3/8" nuts inside the drivers side vent.
I ALWAYS pull the entire dash assembly. Its a Pain to do otherwise, but certainly can be done. I dont have the patience.
Also there's 2-3/8" nuts inside the drivers side vent.
I ALWAYS pull the entire dash assembly. Its a Pain to do otherwise, but certainly can be done. I dont have the patience.
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
Here is something to guide you a little bit.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Ditto pull the whole dash and fix everything on the bench.
@Welder guy posted a video of a guy removing a pad alone in a junkyard, but I don't know where it is.
If you want to pull the column and dash, this is the general procedure from doing my 1970 Fury convertible.
11-7-14 Conv Strg Column
Strg Column Coupler: I found an old yellow handle SD with 5/16 OD shaft. I cut off the FB end and used it as a 5/16 punch on the conv coupler pin. Much easier to remove with right size punch
Remove LF seat: 4 nuts, 1/2 ls, 6 ext, 3/8 AR
Shift Linkage @ Column: remove clip, NN pliers. Pull toward engine. Remove clip, 2 washers, and sleeve
Strg column base: remove 3 bolts, 1/2 ls, 6 ext, 3/8 AR
Strg Column Connectors: pull 2 large conn apart. 3-wire conn is open, no corresponding conn under dash. 1-wire Y/BK wire connector: ice pick under circle to loosen. Remove ice pick and pull apart. FSM: it looks like this is connector for ignition switch lamp
Strg Column Trans Gear Indicator: keys in ignition and turn to on. Shift into neutral so wire indicator clears sides of Gear Dial. I left keys in column so they would not get confused with SF keys.
Strg Column Mt, 3 studs @ Bottom Dash Shell: 4 nuts total, 2 on one stud because lower holds ground wire. 7/16 ls, 6 ext, 3/8 AR
Coupler: took pin out yesterday
Strg Column: pull into passenger compartment and remove
AC Dash Removal
DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE WINDSHIELD
Convertible Top: lowered
Remove the plastic cover from under the steering column.
Remove the two bolts holding the steering column to the dash lower edge and let the column rest on the driver's seat. I had already removed the steering column and seat. If your car is like mine, you have two or 3 studs and nuts (instead of 2 bolts). The studs should be removed as well as the nuts, especially if you are going to leave the steering column on the seat. You may be able to remove the studs with double nutting. Otherwise, remove with a vise-grip and replace.
Remove the four screws in the windshield defroster vents, two vents each with a screw on each end. 5/16 short socket, swivel, 6 ext, 3 ext, ¼ ratchet. These screws do not attach the defroster vents. They attach the front of the dash pad to the top of the firewall. 4 separate screws attach the defroster vents to the firewall. Do not attempt to remove these.
Remove the door sill plates and side kick panels.
Open the doors and note a single screw holding the dash, it's near the top. You do not need to remove these 2 screws to remove dash. Remove them later after the dash is removed, in order to detach dash pad from metal dash panel. Also, you do not need to remove the plastic A-pillar covers to remove dash assembly.
On the engine side of firewall, unplug all the cables from the bulkhead connector.
On the passenger side of firewall, remove 2 screws holding the bulkhead connector and fuse panel to the firewall.
Disconnect the speedometer cable by pushing the clips together and pulling out of the back of the speedometer.
Unplug wiring harness connectors at the sides under where the kick panels were. These are rear body harness, power seat, power windows, rear speakers, convertible top lift motor, etc. There are a bunch, but each has a different shaped connector so reassembly is easy.
Next, disconnect any control cables running between the heater and the dash heater control. Non-AC has two. AC only has vacuum hoses and wires; no cables.
For AC cars, at passenger side of dash panel under glove, remove 3 PH screws holding AC duct to bottom of dash panel.
Unplug the radio antenna.
Now, under the dash at each end you will find a bolt holding up each end of the dash assembly at the top of where the kick panels were. Loosen these bolts, but do not remove them. The bottom of the dash frame is slotted allowing you to lift it up and out.
At this point roll the dash towards the seat and lift. Move it out about 5 or 6 inches and check to see if anything is left connecting it to the car. When clear, lift it out.
If the instrument cluster is still in the dash, it has to be removed before you can detach dash pad from dash panel.
To detach the dash from the dash pad: there are 7 nuts that mount on studs from the bottom of the dash pad through holes at the top of the dash panel; 3/8 ss, swivel, 6 ext, 3 ext, ¼ R. Six of these nuts are on the right side and one is in a corner on the left side. Remove 5 PH screws, one at each end of the pad and 3 across the top of the instrument cluster mount. The pad and panel should separate.
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
Fury is a whole different animal. Much easier.
Thanks for all the help guys. I decided to pull the dash pad only. That photo above really helped. Got it in my basement now. Now to figure out what to do next. Watching YouTube videos. Got to wonder if the grind out/flatten cracks/fill/stretch new vinyl method will be doable. Stretching vinyl/gluing down looks difficult to say the least. And the alternative/painting it…got to wonder if it’ll last. I called justdashes. They want $2900!…plus shipping both ways and about 4 months. The phone fell out of my hand. Last I looked into was over ten years ago and it was $1000-1200 then. And…it looks like they’re the only restoration company out there. Any suggestions out there? Thanks. Bob
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
I have a near perfect dash pad out of a 69 with AC, it was redone before I got the car but they didn't do the stitching on the front.
I did have another one done at JustDashes and yes it was expensive, I live close enough to avoid shipping.
Send me a message if you are interested and we can talk price there.
Alan
I did have another one done at JustDashes and yes it was expensive, I live close enough to avoid shipping.
Send me a message if you are interested and we can talk price there.
Alan
Tried sending you a PM but got message that you’re full. Maybe you can clear out some of your old PMs and send me one? Yes, I’d like to get some details and price from you. Thanks Alan, Bob
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Lowbudget
Member
Here you go. This guy uses 4 way stretch vinyl, foam and bondo. There used to be a video of a guy in Cheyenne Wyoming on The Hog Ring but it is gone. He sewed the dash cover on a 70 Road Runner and it turned out nice.
Yes, I've watched that video already. I like Weird Beard…he did a fine job on that Fury dash. I was impressed with the job he did. That gave me the idea that I could fix mine. Only time will tell if it’ll last or not though. Anyone here ever tried filling with Duraglass/bondo and covering with vinyl? If so, has it lasted?
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