1970 300 - Is replacing the power steering seals as easy as it looks in the pics?

[Northcoast300h]

From the 1970 service manual. Anyone do this? I can't tell if its just leaking from the top nut or locknut or both? It looks like you just take the top nut off to replace the top seal, then the locknut to replace the O ring seal. Easy, or not? I know I'll have to play with the top nut to adjust the slop in the steering wheel. Thanks.

 

[Chrome58]

I'm not sure you can do this without having the steering box out of the car and on a work bench.

 

[Northcoast300h]

Bummer. I saw some guy take one apart on a workbench on YT, but he said he didn't know what he was doing. Looks like once the top nut and locknut is off, (I can get to these easily), the steel dome dust cover might twist off and then get a pick to take out the O ring seal but I don't want to screw anything up since it works great, except leaks. I'm afraid the shaft might fall out or something become dislodged. I'm also afraid housing is scored and therefore even with new seals, it'll always leak.

I'm tempted to just JB weld it where its leaking around the locknut, but I know I'd probably never be able to unscrew it. Good idea? (Car will never win any awards.). JB worked on my oil pan hole, and power steering pump housing crack and probably other things I forgot about years ago.

 

[Big_John]

I've always been game to take on anything, but I send those out for rebuild to Firm Feel Steering Box Rebuilds C-Body and then they are done right.

I opted for the "Stage II" firmness, but @Trace 300 Hurst did the "Stage I" in his car.

 

[Dunno-Mate]

Mate. Mines leaking to. I intend to take it out and work on it on the bench. Far too hard to work on still in the engine bay.

 

[Samplingman]

If you are going to remove the gear to work on it, do yourself a favor and remove the nut holding the pitman arm while still mounted on the frame. That sucker is torqued to 180 foot pounds and is a bear to do while flopping around the bench.

 

[jimmyessbee]

Bummer. I saw some guy take one apart on a workbench on YT, but he said he didn't know what he was doing. Looks like once the top nut and locknut is off, (I can get to these easily), the steel dome dust cover might twist off and then get a pick to take out the O ring seal but I don't want to screw anything up since it works great, except leaks. I'm afraid the shaft might fall out or something become dislodged. I'm also afraid housing is scored and therefore even with new seals, it'll always leak.

I'm tempted to just JB weld it where its leaking around the locknut, but I know I'd probably never be able to unscrew it. Good idea? (Car will never win any awards.). JB worked on my oil pan hole, and power steering pump housing crack and probably other things I forgot about years ago.

Perhaps you are a far better jb welder than I, but I've never used it and then been glad I did.

 

[MoPar~Man]

How similar are these '67 - '70 steerings gears to each other? Or how similar to what I have in my '01 Ram (rear wheel drive)?

I had a very slow leak on the ram, leaking from the lower seal, I replaced the lower seal this past summer. I had to cut the pitman arm off (cut a slot with a grinder, holding the grinder with 1 hand, managed to not touch the splines on the shaft!). The arm was just not coming off with a puller (puller arms were bending). Lots of penetrating oil, pb plaster, even took a plumbing torch to it at one point to heat it up. I didn't want to wreck the shaft bearings. I took the top cover off the steering gear to pull the shaft out, I re-used the top cover gasket (I didn't order a top gasket, wasn't thinking, had to get it back together). So far, so good. No leaks. New pitman arm and idler arm.

I know my '67 Monaco steering gear is leaking. A few months ago I ordered a kit from rock auto, they said there was only 1 such kit available at the time, has a lot of parts, seals etc. I wasn't sure it was the right kit for what I have, we'll see.

 

[Northcoast300h]

So its only been 5 months, but no leaks. JB weld is still working. In my experience, for small leaks with little pressure, JB weld works for years. I tried JB weld on my leaking heater valve, but it only lasted 4 months. The heat and pressure was too much for it.