1970 B5 Sport Fury GT...Critters folly....back to basics

[live4theking]

Typical that the fan switch is fubar.
Body is ground on almost everything so the turn signals and flashers will work normally when all the lights are installed . They will work funny (backfeed into the system) without the tail lights working.
I highly recommend using this flasher with external ground. I use them in all my cars-- worth the extra money and very reliable.
The BoaB I use for both the hazards and signals. The external ground guarantees no back-feeding. You just have to pull the spades and switch the polarity in the plug to work since this is polarity sensitive. I use existing holes in dash to screw the ground wire down. Out of sight,out of mind. Also can use LED bulbs with this flasher. Any parts store or truck shop carries them.
Grote 44891 2 Pin Flasher
View attachment 344220

Just to make sure I'm understanding you correctly. Couldn't you make a short set of jumpers to switch the wires instead of messing with the harness.

 

[cbarge]

Just to make sure I'm understanding you correctly. Couldn't you make a short set of jumpers to switch the wires instead of messing with the harness.

Using jumpers is easier but the way I do it is very tidy and appears "stock"
I switch the black and red wires over in the connector for the flasher unit--no messing with harness..

 

[live4theking]

I guess that would be simply enough.

 

[cbarge]

@CanCritter electrical is one of my stronger suits so I hope you don't mind me hijacking here,LOL!!
So PLEASE PLEASE do a shunt under the hood of your car!!
Especially now that you are juicing up a partially finished car.
After experiencing this first hand and rewiring dozens of other Mopars,just do it.
Run a 10 gauge wire from the BATT stud back of alternator to the BATT stud of the starter relay and at the relay end use a 12 gauge fusible link.
This takes away half the load from the ammeter gauge and will eliminate any nuclear meltdowns should the alternator or voltage regulator short out.
Also,if the ammeter gauge take a dump,the car will still run.

After all your hard work and how well she is turning out,the last thing you need is call 911 and your insurance company.
Knowing our cars,I am just looking out for ya Bud!

 

[CanCritter]

If the low fan speed does not work with replacement fan switch replace the resistor block.

looking at replacing both to be on the safe side then l know they've been delt with...looking for switch 2884338...is a cpl variations of them 3502679 and 3431496 that supersede older switch's and PN for resistor with AC am showing 2936103...some of the pics look different...gona have to pull resistor to check on it and see if there's pns on it to cross reference to make sure its even the right resistor...
also noticed clocks not working and it has power....may have to pull dash to get at it....sigh...2 steps forward 20 back.....if l wasn't so anal about **** working properly my stress level would probably crash.....

 

[CanCritter]

@CanCritter electrical is one of my stronger suits so I hope you don't mind me hijacking here,LOL!!
So PLEASE PLEASE do a shunt under the hood of your car!!
Especially now that you are juicing up a partially finished car.
After experiencing this first hand and rewiring dozens of other Mopars,just do it.
Run a 10 gauge wire from the BATT stud back of alternator to the BATT stud of the starter relay and at the relay end use a 12 gauge fusible link.
This takes away half the load from the ammeter gauge and will eliminate any nuclear meltdowns should the alternator or voltage regulator short out.
Also,if the ammeter gauge take a dump,the car will still run.

After all your hard work and how well she is turning out,the last thing you need is call 911 and your insurance company.
Knowing our cars,I am just looking out for ya Bud!

all good….quite happy to get help from those in the know...is the only way lm gona learn this stuff and learn l do need to do

 

[thrashingcows]

As Lea mentioned the shunt is the best way to alleviate the potential for disaster, but it will also mean that your AMP gauge no longer register an accurate reading....but who these days actually watches or cares about the AMP gauge really. ;)

 

[CanCritter]

welp the last week was a rough one..last thurs nothing seemed to work for me despite all my attempts to fix them...headlights just laughed at me and wipers said nah..not happening.....
Took weekend off to deal with family issues and hit it fresh Monday and managed to get hidden headlights working with single new bosh style relay...doors open and close as they should now and low and highbeams work as they should....
Also sorted out what was up with wipers...finally figured out transmission arm was siezed up as its actually supposed to rotate as l figured...wasn't sure at first but it was only way it was gona work so pulled it apart and put some heat to it and worked it lose and apart to which l cleaned up all parts..greased and reassembled ..reinstalled...managed to sort out wireing finnaly with proper park function upon turning wipers off...Monday was a good day and big relief to get these two functions working properly...engine bay wirein was kicking my ***

this arm was siezed up good from sittin a few decades..little heat and wd40 did it good...have more pics but it seems this site dosnt like my phone pics anymore..not sure what changed but its a definite pain in the ***

 

[CanCritter]

Next....fan switch and wireing to the AC box..reostat?..forgot what the hell its called at the moment...l better get this dam car done before allzimers kicks in

k heres where lm at with it..believe switch is working properly but wireing to ac box isn't correct yet lm thinkin so will try to sort that today...
have power to fan ect...have max ac ...off works...heat works defrost works on cpl settings...will post pics in a bit ...first question is....

A. on max A/C fan blows great.....should heat and defrost be able to blow the same as max AC?...l only get a medium and low type blow on heat and defrost and wonder if it should blow as hard as Max AC...

 

[cbarge]

Answer to your question is....no.
Max AC will give you high speed fan. It overrides/bypasses the blower switch and resistor.
Straight power to blower motor.
Heat and defrost can be set at any speed including high.

 

[CanCritter]

Just to make sure I'm understanding you correctly. Couldn't you make a short set of jumpers to switch the wires instead of messing with the harness.

as per yours and Grahams advise made up a few sets last thurs,,,will use today to try and sort out fan and rheostat wireing....they were handy for sorting out wiper wireing

 

[CanCritter]

winning alittle the last cpl days with wipers and hidden headlights workin right...thinkin these relays were the issue...their realy not sealed that good..this is original relay to the GT...argh...no idea whats goin on with my phone pics these days??

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ah well..no pics....sigh....managed to get heater/AC fan working properly as well today with speeds at settings they should be...moving on to miscellaneous lights ect sorted at dash..radio...need a speaker to test and door and interior lights to sort out...need a dome light
would think putting the majority of the electrical stuff behind me but windows are next and all the windows along with the mechanical stuff in the fury were disassembled and put in a box...no idea what l have or am missing..

 

[CanCritter]

we have pics...original relay..contact was completely gone

And the second relay..

 

[cantflip]

we have pics...original relay..contact was completely gone
View attachment 350504 View attachment 350505 View attachment 350506

Yep, I think its safe to replace that one

 

[live4theking]

It's always fun to tear the broken one apart to see what it looks like.

 

[Ripinator]

we have pics...original relay..contact was completely gone
View attachment 350504 View attachment 350505 View attachment 350506

Whoa. . .! That is ugly!

 

[CanCritter]

thought electrical was bad.....Manual windows...…
most the hardware and all the windows were out when l got this car and came in a crate...have no idea what lm missin or what gos were and in what order...anyway believe lm missin some major and minor stuff but am slowly workin through it..have all the regulators..guides on them are good..missin a bracket or two...first question

A. would 70 and 71 furys have same door hardware for windows ? have the 71 parts car and am hopeing l can steal doors offa it and swap out missin parts...would assume they would be the same but assuming always gets me in trouble...

 

[Mr C]

Well, we know that 71 was a "tweak year" where the Fuselages got some minor changes. My friend used 71 doors on his 70 300 when he was restoring it and we noted that the doors got some changes that you can see in the jamb area by the hinges (different stampings)...but I don't know how much that translated into the inner workings.

 

[carfreak6970]

Head over to My Mopar and look in their reference section. In there you can download the 70-71 parts manual. From there you can determine when they switched to new part numbers (if they did between 70-71). Now just because the part number is different doesnt mean it wont work, it just means something on that part would have changed.

 

[CanCritter]

Well....electricals sorted for the most part...have headlights wipers and fan all working as they should...managed to sort out window hardware and have rear done less windows....front door hardware have sorted out as well but am missing some parts...windows haven't been all that bad..just takes paitience...have 5 windows...one side green tinted other untinted...oh joy...hopeing windows in parts car is good....wont even get into the unidentified windows that came with car..