NOT MINE 1970 Chrysler 300 Coupe - C$15,000 - Milverton, Ontario, Canada

[polaratherapy]

Thanks for the extra pics, pilars might be ok, trunck pics look ok also but you have to agree that the firewall is nasty.
The only thing I can suggest is remove as much as you can along the crust line, grind her down and see where you stand. asses the cancer, cut away all the bad stuff and possibly get a 3" strap that you can run the lenght of the crust line.
You may have to cut your strap in various lenghts to contour the fire wall, various lenghts would also asist in keeping the integity of the firewall . Having an anvil or I beam helps with pounding the straps into shape. Cinch down the strap (s) with tapping screws and then it would be time for some MIG welding. Princess Auto would have the metal you need.
I know it sounds tedious, but you can get this done on a budget, provided you have a MIG welder and die grinders.
Your car would present itself way better for sale.
Anyone willing to help this guy out with a possible better way of going about it; I would like to hear it also.
That is a nice car, but once they see that firewall, they get turned off.
I don't think you can fiberglass a firewall so it would have to be metal .
Just trying to help,PT

 

[crucialvelocity]

Thanks PT, the plans always were to take care of this stuff as time went on… the car has been in the family since the late 80’s or early 90’s. But sometimes life throws a curveball, and the last I heard from my father who sold me this car was the day before my 1st child (see the 2 car seats) was born… I have no interest in it anymore… it’s just a trigger really.

I’ll be totally honest with anyone’s questions, I an not selling for any other reason then who owned it before me…

Here’s what I know…

Rear end could use adjustment, bearings? Whines while turning in one direction more than the other.

Wiper motor won’t park, have to shut off at bottom of travel.

Driver’s side window won’t move with motor… haven’t checked out what is up, motor runs but you have to manually move the glass.

Top of rear seats and parcel shelf not nice.

Plus the obvious pictures.

Engine rebuilt in early 90’s by K&K Racing in Stratford, ON. Unknown cam, torque converter, Edelbrock intake, Holley carb.

Open to offers, I know I am not going to get asking, it’s just a starting point..

Cheers,
Adam

 

[polaratherapy]

I searched the web but did not found the answer. Why dutchman and not german panel or french panel ?
Dutchman (repair) - Wikipedia

Une piece entre deux plus gros paneaux structurel, kinda what Wikipedia states!
Salut, PT

 

[crucialvelocity]

Here is a little video I made (11 years ago!) after I had the body job completed…

 

[david hill]

Firewall pics, bottom is good, top half is the disaster

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The firewall can be restored via a doner car or a pristine firewall / cowl w/the A pillar assembly. Doghouse and sub frame w/ engine and trans must be first removed to gain access to the firewall. The windshield must also be removed. Some individuals like to cut and patch the rusted areas. For a better-quality finished product drill out the plug welds and simply remove the damaged panels of the firewall one layer at a time from the doner starting at the top of the cowl area and working you way down. The bonus of having a complete doner assembly is whatever you need for replacement parts will be there. Most of the doner parts plug weld holes should line up. This is a brief outline, but I think you get the idea how well the finished cowl will look.

 

[polaratherapy]

The firewall can be restored via a doner car or a pristine firewall / cowl w/the A pillar assembly. Doghouse and sub frame w/ engine and trans must be first removed to gain access to the firewall. The windshield must also be removed. Some individuals like to cut and patch the rusted areas. For a better-quality finished product drill out the plug welds and simply remove the damaged panels of the firewall one layer at a time from the doner starting at the top of the cowl area and working you way down. The bonus of having a complete doner assembly is whatever you need for replacement parts will be there. Most of the doner parts plug weld holes should line up. This is a brief outline, but I think you get the idea how well the finished cowl will look.

So David how much do you think your method would aproximatly cost?
first you would have to source a donor car, KACHING!
Get someone to remove the whole front end, Wyatt's not doing it anymore! Either way KACHING!
Cut the firewalls out of both cars, thing can go terribly wrong here!
I understand your method of brining back the car to what would look like stock but I think Adam just wants to sell the car now, not sink a ton of money into it and not get the money back at all in the sale.
Sounds like you have the know how, looks like you are into 300s, make him an offer!

 

[david hill]

So David how much do you think your method would aproximatly cost?
first you would have to source a donor car, KACHING!
Get someone to remove the whole front end, Wyatt's not doing it anymore! Either way KACHING!
Cut the firewalls out of both cars, thing can go terribly wrong here!
I understand your method of brining back the car to what would look like stock but I think Adam just wants to sell the car now, not sink a ton of money into it and not get the money back at all in the sale.
Sounds like you have the know how, looks like you are into 300s, make him an offer!

Cash outlay including labor you could be into somewhere between 14 to 15,000. I'm currently downsizing my fleet, however I'm more than willing to share my knowledge on how to salvage a perfectly good car the car has is it's simply not worth the money he's asking. The real value of the car is probably closer to $8,000 considering the amount of rust in the firewall and the cost to do the proper repairs. If you Band-Aid it it will simply come back to haunt you later.

 

[polaratherapy]

David, I will give you another thumbs up, $14-15 grand US is about $20 grand CDN, not sure Adam wants to sell a kid.
The band-aid might be his only solution at this present time. I suggested the band-aid as it would only cost him maybe $2 grand including a small MIG welder, air compresser, metal and tools. After his sale he would at least still have the tools which he can then sell off too!
Let's not forget Adam here has been competely honest in adding some other issues the car has that will need attention. It's become a lawn ornament to him and the wife, and wants the big red gnome gone.
I just chimed in to help him with a quick fix to help him move on. You have described a " how it should be done reality check" where he will never get his money back and shovel money into a pit that potentially may get even deeper as he goes, depriving his children of a post secondary education.
I think he has 2 solutions now along the cash spectrum from chapest to most expensive.

Have a good day,
PT

 

[fury fan]

IMO this rust is the equivalent to old cracks in a house foundation. They make you cringe, but if the house isn't shifting then leave it be.

That rust has likely been there for 10+ years, so it's not like the car is in immediate peril.
The rust we see in these pics is in the outer/upper section, a 'cap' if you will, so not structurally critical.
The inner part of the cowl, which makes the surfaces for the interior of the car, is what the brake booster is attached to.
That metal curves down from the base of the windshield, straight forward to form the floor of the air plenum, and then downward to make the bottom section of the firewall.
That downward roll, and the cap welded upon it, make a crevice that is ideal for holding rust-promoting debris.
The rust belt we can see is just upward from where the inner piece turns downward. (If the inner part is rusted also that may change things, of course).

IMO, the required disassembly and surgery isn't cost-justified on this particular car. It can be driven and enjoyed as-is.
But price needs to drop some due to the issue.

 

[crucialvelocity]

Car is relisted again now that spring is here, my asking price is now $13,000 Canadian ($9550 USD), or reasonable offer…

 

[Samplingman]

So David how much do you think your method would aproximatly cost?
first you would have to source a donor car, KACHING!
Get someone to remove the whole front end, Wyatt's not doing it anymore! Either way KACHING!
Cut the firewalls out of both cars, thing can go terribly wrong here!
I understand your method of brining back the car to what would look like stock but I think Adam just wants to sell the car now, not sink a ton of money into it and not get the money back at all in the sale.
Sounds like you have the know how, looks like you are into 300s, make him an offer!

A firewall from any Chrysler ‘69-‘73, 4 door, 2 door, wagon or convertible would work. It’s not a difficult job, just very time consuming. I’m only mentioning for the future potential buyer, I don’t think the seller is putting any more time or effort into this one. Thus looks like a great car at a decent price, just look at that interior! Good luck with the sale!

 

[crucialvelocity]

Well, I have decided to keep her for now… enough no shows and tire kickers, not worth the time involved, better spent working on it!

 

[fury fan]

Perhaps you've considered this, but if not:
Depending on the age of your children - ask them if they like Dad's old car, and years from now would they tell you that you should've kept it?
I re-read all of this and saw that the car is a trigger for you - but perhaps it'll become a bridge someday.
Life is funny, and sometimes cars can work in unplanned ways.

Near-exactly 20 years ago I sold a crappy car to a derby guy - not my desired outcome for it, but the car had to go away.
He quickly became a friend, then best man at my wedding, and I'm going to his oldest child's HS graduation party this weekend.
All because of a car.