CHECK TIMING, FIX OTHER ISSUES
Looks good, but runs good is important too
Gradients don't make much difference, except at initial assembly. Can't see them with a timing light,
Gold is zero, timing mark. Whites are 10 & 20° BTDC
· My 1970 Plymouth Fury convertible did not come with electronic ignition. I had two members whom I trust recommend Rick Ehrenberg’s electronic ignition conversion Kit. After doing some price shopping and considering value versus price, I agreed with them and bought Rick Ehrenberg’s kit.
for MOPAR 440 Hi-Rev Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit OEM Specs Charger Plym. | eBay
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In his specifications he says that total timing, with the vacuum advance disconnected, at 3000 RPM should be 33 to 34° before top dead center. He says this is usually a good compromise on pump fuel with streetable compression ratios. Mine is 9.2:1.
· Process:
Check to see if total timing is still within Rick Ehrenberg’s specifications after over 100 miles of driving.
1. I warmed up the car by driving it for 5 miles.
2. I pulled the vacuum advance hose off the vacuum canister and plugged it.
3. I hooked up my timing light to battery positive and negative, spark plug wire from number one cylinder, coil negative post.
4. I raised the idle vacuum to 2500 RPM and, using my dial back timing light, found a total timing of 30° before top dead center. I checked this because every magazine article that I’ve read on setting total timing recommends an RPM somewhere between 2500-3000. I thought it would be interesting to see how many degrees of advance Rick Ehrenberg’s distributor would add for that last 500 RPM.
5. I raised idle vacuum to 3000 RPM per Rick Ehrenberg’s specifications and found a total timing of 34° before top dead center, still perfectly on spec. In other words, in 100 miles of driving, there was no variance between where I originally set timing and now.
6. I reconnected the vacuum advance hose to the distributor vacuum canister. Again using my dial back timing light, I found 55 – 56° before top dead center. Rick Ehrenberg’s specification is 50° to 56° before top dead center. The reading is within spec and 3000 idle RPM simulates a high-speed steady cruise.
7. I reduced idle speed to 850 RPM, which is where I like it. You can set your idle speed to whatever you want to. In my opinion if you have total timing with vacuum advance disconnected at spec, then idle timing just happens to be whatever it is at the idle RPM that you select. At 850 RPM my idle timing is 14 to 15° before top dead center. I disagree with setting timing by idle alone because it doesn’t determine whether the mechanical advance in the distributor is working properly. Total timing with vacuum advance disconnected determines whether mechanical advance within the distributor is working or not. (Obvious: we should still check idle timing, but I've never seen a distributor where mechanical advance worked right and idle timing was a problem, ...like retarded, ATDC or something)
8. Test Drive: wide open throttle, lots of power and no knock. Cruise at 50, 60, and 70 mph: runs steady and no knock. Based on the above checks and the test drive, I chose to leave the timing exactly where I had set it. Ehrenberg gets an A+ so far.
Belt Stretch
· Stretched over first 100 miles of use. Got loose feeling.
· Alternator Belt, V-belt: Dayco 15475. Loosen pivot bolt and lower bracket bolt at adjusting strap. 1.5” dowel between alternator and water pump housing, hold with left hand below alternator. Right Hand: Tighten adjusting strap bolt, ½ short socket, 3/8 torque wrench at 200 inch pounds. Tighten pivot bolt @ 30 foot-pounds, 9/16 short socket, 3/8 torque wrench.
· Power Steering Belt, V-belt: Dayco 15415. ½" breaker bar in opening in power steering pump bracket, cheater pipe over top. Pull top towards right side. Tighten adjusting and pivot bolt to 30 foot-pounds, 9/16 long socket, 3/8 torque wrench.
Side Trim:
· 3M Plastic Emblem and Trim Adhesive, 1 ounce, part number 03601: It Works. Black side trim held tight to aluminum backing
Door ding is on agenda to get fixed
Trunk
· because of the thickness of the weatherstrip, the trunk lid needs to be shut with some force now. I believe the seal is very good.
· Test Drive: noise from the rear end was eliminated. At least I did not notice it in driving 5 miles including highway speeds
· At the rear edges of the trunk where the 2 side channels beside the weather strip drain, there was surface rust on the right side. I scraped and sanded it away. Applied 3 coats of Loctite Rust Neutralizer. Spot applied to other areas along the rear trunk edge.
LUG NUTS
Years Ago I converted from left-hand to right hand thread for the wheel studs on the driver's side. If you buy a 1971 or later c-body, you won't have this problem. I also converted from 4 wheel drum to front disc.
· Lug Nuts, left front tire: the lug nuts on the other 3 tires are ½ X 20 thread chrome acorn lug nuts with tapered ends. They measure 13/16 inch hexagonal. The lug nuts on this tire were ¾ inch hexagonal, conventional. Yep, car had 2 different sizes of lug nuts. Dumb. Advance Auto: purchased 8 acorn lug nuts, Dorman 711 – 201, chrome, 13/16, tapered end to match a lug nut that I brought along. Unfortunately, they come in packs of 4 and are made of Chineseium. At least they work.
Old Nuts
· Install new lug nuts, torque 65 foot-pounds, 13/16 long socket, 8 inch extension, ½ torque wrench.
· Lug Wrench/Prybar: matched a spare to 13/16 lug nuts. Placed in trunk. Put the old lug wrench on a shelf.
Tires and Alignment
· Stopped by Cassidy Auto and spoke with Patrick Cassidy. Scheduled install of 2 tires and alignment for Tuesday of next week. He was very impressed with the 70 Fury and said, “It’s starts immediately, just like a fuel injected car.” I got big smiles from him and the Matco tool rep, who was onsite.
Maybe I'll send the seller a 
email. What really weirds me out is the add says "1 sold".
