For Sale 1972 Fury III in New York

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Analog Kid

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Plymouth Fury III-1972

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Next weekend I'm taking a trip up to New York to look at this 72 Fury. Would appreciate any advice on what to look for in a car that hasn't been on the road in 10 years. The owner told me this week that he got it running but I'm going to assume there will be some things that need to be replaced. The cost to get it roadworthy will determine whether I pay him what he is asking for the vehicle.

Thanks,

DW
 
If you are going to look at it and really want it edit your post. Get rid of the link, pics and location. Ask generically what to look for on a 72 fury. More than members see these and you will lose your chance. Nice car by the looks
 
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It,s for sale for a long time , i don,t think it will go in the time between.....
 
It looks like a decent car. If it was stored in that building you could be real fortunate.

The things I would plan on doing are brakes (inspect the hard lines - replace the rubber hoses), flush the brake fluid, belts, hoses, tires, rebuild the carb, fuel lines, fuel filter, flush the radiator and block.

I have no idea what your mechanical abilities are.
 
I would be concerned about that "Surface rust" showing on the sides. Check it carefully and see if it goes deep. If so, i would be inclined to walk away. Check the rear quarter extensions too. Plus also look for nests inside the chassis rails front and back. Being that it was stored inside a building, rodents may have made homes there. This happened to a car I bought and the urine from the rodents had rotted the rails out.
 
With the vinyl top, carefully scrutinize the rear window frame for rust/bubbling/softness, and the front one too. An o-ring pick (with their permission) if they want to prove it is benign.
 
Everything everyone has suggested here so far is right on.

And yeah, that curious pattern of "surface rust" over the paint might go deeper as wollfen alluded.. hopefully it's not rot(or rat piss)coming out from the inside.. but looks to me that both sides were exposed to extreme chemicals or heat from the outside at one time, leaving the bare metal to oxidize/rust just on the surface-- like the underside of a hood.

Get underneath and inspect fuel and brake lines, brake hoses and fuel tank, floors and trunk for rust/rot/holes etc.

Check the oil for coolant and the coolant for oil, which may indicate blown head gaskets or cracks in the block.

Check the fuel coming from the tank/line for cloudy, orange rust/sediment.

If it's a power steering car then definitely inspect the gear and pump. If the car starts and runs then turn the wheel lock to lock a few times to see how the system reacts.

Also check the transmission. Get in the car when it's running and put it through the gears.

Maybe bring a multimeter and check around the electrical system.

I would call and ask themahead of time to personally check/confirm anything that might be a deal breaker for you.. why waste an entire day.

All the usual suspects for a car sitting for 10 years. Expect anything. Bring a friend to help assess, a trailer, some tools, fluids, lots of questions, the cash, and Good Luck!!!

She looks pretty solid-- hope I'm right.. please take photos and post up here with updates.
 
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And that big bench seat with the adjustable head rests option on both sides is great... looks like the seat backs are adjustable too.
 
Maybe it was in a barn were animals were in the past .
The amonia air is the worst thing for a car .....
 
Hmmm, It seems the rust only lies in the low spaces between sheet metal (see my handy diagram).. does not go above the trim on the doors.. is there a reinforcement midway?
And at the door lip there is a rust free strip of paint. Vould indicate it's coming from the inside... or the car was driven through a puddle of sulfuric acid and the splash didn't exceed the curve/peak of the trim...
 
Hmmm, It seems the rust only lies in the low spaces between sheet metal (see my handy diagram).. does not go above the trim on the doors.. is there a reinforcement midway?
And at the door lip there is a rust free strip of paint. Vould indicate it's coming from the inside... or the car was driven through a puddle of sulfuric acid and the splash didn't exceed the curve/peak of the trim...

I believe in 1970, federal mandates required side door guard beams; a sheet metal inner door structure piece that spans horizontally about half way up. Perhaps that blocked further infiltration from splashing, or the guy on the assembly line did not want to position his undercoating gun such that underneath the guard beam structure was bare. In any case, undercoating can be good or bad, depending upon whether or not it actually stays stuck the the metal. If it does not, it allows moisture to be trapped due to capillary action and accelerates the rust process. When deciding whether or not to put undercoating on a car you are restoring, you have to ask yourself, "Do you feel lucky?.... Well do you??"

Rust crawling through the paint on lower regions of the body is never good. On the top side of the body, such as the hood, it is usually benign and just happens from worn or peeling paint. Such rust is often referred to as patina.

Each car is exposed to the elements differently, drives on different roads, and with a different driver. It is not uncommon for a car to be rusted more on the right side than on the left, because of splashing due to the gathering of rain water from the crown of the road, toward the gutters. Some drivers like to huddle the puddle more; or choose the right lane regardless of water collection.

Some cars are exposed to more particulate matter, such as leaves or pine needles. If they make the way past the door glass weatherstrips, they tend to plug up the weep holes of the body, and accelerate rust from the inside out. In 1973 my father had a 1967 Plymouth Fury II wagon, the body and paint were excellent except for a completely rusted out tail gate along the bottom. It is too bad I did not have enough wisdom as a kid to say, "hey Dad, let's unplug the weep holes in the tail gate."

My Polara 500 convertible had this kind of spotting especially on the RH side, and I believe what accelerated it was the 500 trim being installed on the bottom of the body. It would trap in moisture, salt, and debris. Additionally, it was manufactured from aluminum, which is a terrible choice for engineers to place against steel; due to dissimilar metal corrosion. Had it been a GM, it would have probably been made from stainless steel. Chrysler just cut corners on certain things.

In the early 70's and up, all of the manufacturers were starting to buy cheaper imported steel to manufacture cars. This lead to the shuttering of many steel plants through the US. The imported steel was full of impurities, and caused rust on an unprecedented scale. An example is 71-73 IH Scout II's don't rust nearly as much as '74 on up. But this happened with all the makes.
 
Thanks for the great responses.

I talked with the seller again yesterday and had him send me some pictures of the worst spots of rust. He says the right side is the worst but there are no holes.

Paint definitely looks chipped in spots but the patterns suggest some type of moisture splashing. Maybe this car drove a lot on muddy gravel roads?

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Can't say I've seen anything like that before, it has me curious.
 
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