1978 New Yorker, so many questions, just 1 for now

[rowjelio]

I just bought a 1978 Chrysler New Yorker 400ci, LOVE the car, but after driving around a while, the car warms up, then it struggles to start. Cranks great. After about 5 seconds of cranking it finally starts. It's got lean burn delete conversion from the factory.

Is this gonna be something easy like the ignition coil or something? Any quick fixes to try first ? Starts like a match the first few times before that starts happening.

Don't know much about this car, Any input is appreciated.

 

[CBODY67]

Does the driver's door have a "Catalyst" sticker on it? Is this a Canadian-spec car? How do you know it is a "factory" Lean Burn delete car? Just curious.

The longer crank time when starting after a "heat soak" is somewhat normal, but a bit frustrating. You can ensure the tune-up items are up to snuff. As to spark plug condition and gaps, base timing is correct (which is why I am curious about the "factory" LB delete).

This is NOT like a modern EFI car, you need to add about 1/3 throttle when starting, almost any time. Then release it to hot base idle after it starts and before you put it in gear. Learning what the car "likes" and "acts best with" is ONE part of the character of vintage vehicles, no matter the brand.

Also, in addition, the first start of the day, put the gear selector in "N" from "P". This lets the torque converter fill faster so that after it starts, going into "R" is more normal. Not doing this leads to the car being lethargic to move when put into gear. ONLY the first start of the day.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[rowjelio]

Does the driver's door have a "Catalyst" sticker on it? Is this a Canadian-spec car? How do you know it is a "factory" Lean Burn delete car? Just curious.

The longer crank time when starting after a "heat soak" is somewhat normal, but a bit frustrating. You can ensure the tune-up items are up to snuff. As to spark plug condition and gaps, base timing is correct (which is why I am curious about the "factory" LB delete).

This is NOT like a modern EFI car, you need to add about 1/3 throttle when starting, almost any time. Then release it to hot base idle after it starts and before you put it in gear. Learning what the car "likes" and "acts best with" is ONE part of the character of vintage vehicles, no matter the brand.

Also, in addition, the first start of the day, put the gear selector in "N" from "P". This lets the torque converter fill faster so that after it starts, going into "R" is more normal. Not doing this leads to the car being lethargic to move when put into gear. ONLY the first start of the day.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Thanks so much for that, I meant that it came with lean burn, but was taken back to the dealer and had the leak burn conversion from the dealer. Pretty sure. I'll post some pics once we get some sunny days. I have a whole list of things I need to fix on this thing but it's mostly there, thanks so much for your advice it's been a tremendous help!

 

[CBODY67]

In earlier times, it was popular to install the Mopar Performance electronic ignition conversion kit to vehicles which either had ignition points or as a part of the LB removal situation. Easy, cost effective, and all factory items (distributors, harnesses, etc.). Then whatever needed to be done on the carburetor situation, as that's where most of the "lean burn" calibrations (as I understand it) were. The "computer" modulated the timing to greater levels than an "analog" distributor could, but "the kit" deactivated and removed that part of things. IF they used that kit, it basically makes the bulk of the tune-up specs on the labels under the hood meaningless, as to basic timing and idle speed. Back to more of a "what works" situation. Spark plug heat ranges and gaps would not change, though. Hot base idle speed could probably go as low as 625rpm or so, too.

So, thanks for those clarifications,
CBODY67