Carburetor for 1978 Chrysler New Yorker with 400 engine

I have swapped out multiple Lean Burn systems and carbs over the years and the improvements were well worth it. Last one I did was on a 76 NYB with a 440 and we went to an Eddy AVS2 650CFM. Car never ran better however there is a bit of monkeying around with the kickdown linkages to get it right. You will need a squarebore adapter and the correct Chrysler linkage bracket from Edelbrock. I prefer the old Direct Connection Electronic Conversion kit but they are unicorns nowadays. I have also used the Summit and Proform kits with success. So in short here is what I would do:

Proform electronic Conversion kit Proform Parts 440-427 Proform Mopar Licensed Electronic Distributor Conversion Kits | Summit Racing
Edelbrock AVS2 with electric choke Edelbrock 1916 Edelbrock AVS2 Series Carburetors | Summit Racing
Edelbrock Mopar Linkage Adapter Edelbrock 1481 Edelbrock Throttle Lever Adapters for Performer Carburetors | Summit Racing
Edelbrock Spreadbore to Squarebore adapter Edelbrock 2696 Edelbrock Carburetor Adapters | Summit Racing
Non Leanburn Air Cleaner from an older Mopar for 4 barrel carb

Some have used a Pertonix conversion which is also a good alternative but a little more involved. You will need a FSM and have reasonable knowledge of basic wiring and how to set up timing/vacuum/idle as the Lean burn was doing this for you.

Good Luck!
Can the EGR be deleted both on lean burn and non lean burn?
 
Two things made the Lean Burn happen. A carburetor specifically calibrated to have a much leaner air/fuel ratio at cruise AND a timing advance curve calibration to have more advance to fire off the leaner mixture for reduced emissions (which is why no cat converter is on the car, as it was not needed to meet the standards). By 1980, the "lean burn" orientation was dead, but the electronics to run the distributor were still alive and well.

Even back then, to remove the LB system, it would take the then-available Mopar Performance electronic ignition conversion kit (which was sold by Chrysler itself, back then) and a non-LB carburetor.

The "trick" is in removing enough of the LB system electronics and wiring so that the new system can be easily installed. Back then, too, good aftermarket spreadbore carbs were not usually around with "aftermarket" calibrations, which could complicate things. Ending up with re-man carbs of undermined calibrations and of questionable quality, which resulted in the cars being sold "very cheap" to people who knew nothing about cars to start with (other than where to put the gas in and maybe check the oil). Result was that many nice cars went to an early and undeserved death.

Personally, I like the LB orientation of things. Just that as time progresses, the sensors and such can age and go out of production. In modern times, a Street Demon 650 carb (which has many cosmetic and engineering orientations of the Carter TQ carburetor) and a normal electronic ignition conversion kit are around.

As Chrysler now licenses the kit, rather than building it itself, can be problematic as some have noted a lower-quality control box being used. Sourcing a kit from Rick Ehrenberg's eBay shop can get the "good stuff", just not from Chrysler.

An ever more up-to-date deal would be to fully convert the fuel and ignition systems to a modern TBI self-learning EFI system and let the computer do the timing curve itself (which might use the existing LB distributor). Pricier, but the whole LB system would be modernized in one feld swoop. Might try Affordable Fuel Injection rather than Holley?

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
Can the EGR be deleted both on lean burn and non lean burn?
 
So you are saying Avs2 would not work with leanburn correct?
The ONLY, repeat O N L Y, way to get rid of the Lean Burn equipment is to REPLACE THE SYSTEM, either by re-calibrating the TQuad (as was mentioned previously) or completely replacing the existing carburetor with a NEW carburetor . . . AND replace the existing Lean Burn distributor with an earlier model year (pre-1975) distributor (with appropriate changes to the vehicle wiring to the earlier model year) . . . plus an air cleaner without the Lean Burn computer on it.

The distributor needs to be changed as there is NO advance mechanism in the LB distributor, as there is in a normal distributor. The advance was all handled by the Combustion Computer on the side of the air cleaner.

The experiences of others in here who have done this is all laid out in prior posts. Including detailed parts lists, also.

The complete Electronic Lean Burn system was a SYSTEM, change one part of it and other parts need to be changed or modified, too.

Regards,
CBODY67
 
I have a 1978 Chrysler with 400 engine with original Carter carburetor and lean burn system. Looks like I need to get the carburetor rebuilt. Should I rebuild or buy a new one? Would like to keep the lean burn on. Would the original work if I delete the lean burn later? Any new carburetor that would work with both lean burn delete or with lean burn?
My 77 NYB has a 400 in it. The lean burn is completely removed and I have an edelbrock 650 carb with electric choke, and a pertronix distributor and electronic ignition. The car runs great, way better than with the Carter TQ carb. My lean burn was non-functional when I bought the car.
 
My 77 NYB has a 400 in it. The lean burn is completely removed and I have an edelbrock 650 carb with electric choke, and a pertronix distributor and electronic ignition. The car runs great, way better than with the Carter TQ carb. My lean burn was non-functional when I bought the car.
Did you delete the EGR?
 
These GM HEI distributors work well in the Mopar big and small blocks. And, they accept the 7-degree while cranking retard module. All service parts are at the auto store up the street.

1712950612565.png
 
So you are saying Avs2 would not work with leanburn correct?

I am not sure how you are interpreting what I said above to reach your conclusion.

I am recommending you replace the lean burn carburetor with an Edelbrock AVS2 of 650 CFM and pull the "Lean Burn" computer off the car and replace it with an earlier distributor, like 70 or 71 model years for a 383 cu. in. application that @halifaxhops would have. Take the "Lean Burn Computer" and smash it and put it in the trash. You would need to make sure you have an intake manifold that would accomodate an AVS2 carburetor and deal with any rewiring as needed to accomodate the distributor and removal of the Lean Burn Computer. Like I said, the Lean Burn computer only controlled spark advance which made the car run badly in itself with little power and terrible fuel consumption, so you want to just get rid of that computer.
 
Did you delete the EGR?

The AVS2 carburetor does not have a port on it to operate an EGR valve, as far as I recall so you can just leave the EGR valve in place with no hose connected to it or remove it and place a steel cover/gasket over the opening and seal it up or just use an intake manifold from and earlier 1970-71 model that won't have a provision for an EGR valve and would also allow you to just bolt up an AVSII with no adaptor needed to go from lean burn carburetor to an AVS2. That is what I would do.
 
So you are saying Avs2 would not work with leanburn correct?
It will work with an AVS2 but you would leave half the benefits of converting to the AVS2 carburetor behind. The computer only controls the spark timing/advance and nothing else. Taking off the computer and replacing it with a distributor is way better so just get a competent guy with some electrical wiring knowledge to wire up a regular distributor with good amounts of spark advance available that would be governed by the distributor you would replace the lean burn computer with. You would also need to replace the intake manifold to bolt on an AVS2 carburetor.

Get someone competent to help you if you are not experienced with this kind of changeover and you will enjoy the car immensely more - night and day better. Things done by half are never the way to go IMO. The formals can be nice cars overall as they are quiet and ride well going down the highway and exude some opulence when the overall package is done right under the hood and you will pay for these changes in terms of fuel savings over time. Go the whole 9 yards.
 
I have swapped out multiple Lean Burn systems and carbs over the years and the improvements were well worth it. Last one I did was on a 76 NYB with a 440 and we went to an Eddy AVS2 650CFM. Car never ran better however there is a bit of monkeying around with the kickdown linkages to get it right. You will need a squarebore adapter and the correct Chrysler linkage bracket from Edelbrock. I prefer the old Direct Connection Electronic Conversion kit but they are unicorns nowadays. I have also used the Summit and Proform kits with success. So in short here is what I would do:

Proform electronic Conversion kit Proform Parts 440-427 Proform Mopar Licensed Electronic Distributor Conversion Kits | Summit Racing
Edelbrock AVS2 with electric choke Edelbrock 1916 Edelbrock AVS2 Series Carburetors | Summit Racing
Edelbrock Mopar Linkage Adapter Edelbrock 1481 Edelbrock Throttle Lever Adapters for Performer Carburetors | Summit Racing
Edelbrock Spreadbore to Squarebore adapter Edelbrock 2696 Edelbrock Carburetor Adapters | Summit Racing
Non Leanburn Air Cleaner from an older Mopar for 4 barrel carb

Some have used a Pertonix conversion which is also a good alternative but a little more involved. You will need a FSM and have reasonable knowledge of basic wiring and how to set up timing/vacuum/idle as the Lean burn was doing this for you.

Good Luck!
What is the difference between the Eldelbrock 1916 vs 1906? Can you old air cleaner?
 
What is the difference between the Eldelbrock 1916 vs 1906? Can you old air cleaner?
Hello Fred

As mentioned above you do not need to run the EGR off the Eddy Carb unless your state requires emission testing in which case that's a whole different conversation I believe. (Being from the free state of Alberta Canada we do not have such regulations lol) The big difference between the 1906 Eddy and the 1916 Eddy is the style of Annualr discharge of fuel. The 1906 is the old style which basically drips fuel into the Venturi's while the 1916 uses an Atomizer style which creates a mist of fuel into the venturi's which is more efficient. The AVS2 carbs are an advancement over the older model and I find better response and operation with them. Either will work for your application so it is just a preference. In regards to your original air cleaner it is likely that it will fit if your 400 was an original 4 barrel lean burn carb. I don't recall whether you answered that question however if you remove the lean burn unit you will have to block the opening in the air cleaner to maintain integrity of the airflow. Best just leave the Leanburn unit attached but unplugged if you do not have an older style air cleaner to use.
 
I have a 1978 Chrysler with 400 engine with original Carter carburetor and lean burn system. Looks like I need to get the carburetor rebuilt. Should I rebuild or buy a new one? Would like to keep the lean burn on. Would the original work if I delete the lean burn later? Any new carburetor that would work with both lean burn delete or with lean burn?
u cant buy a new one u can get a ellembrock but unles u have the same carb on the car now the transmition dowmn shift will np b rght & IT may not shift right try they do great work

daytona parts card.jpg
 
Hello Fred

As mentioned above you do not need to run the EGR off the Eddy Carb unless your state requires emission testing in which case that's a whole different conversation I believe. (Being from the free state of Alberta Canada we do not have such regulations lol) The big difference between the 1906 Eddy and the 1916 Eddy is the style of Annualr discharge of fuel. The 1906 is the old style which basically drips fuel into the Venturi's while the 1916 uses an Atomizer style which creates a mist of fuel into the venturi's which is more efficient. The AVS2 carbs are an advancement over the older model and I find better response and operation with them. Either will work for your application so it is just a preference. In regards to your original air cleaner it is likely that it will fit if your 400 was an original 4 barrel lean burn carb. I don't recall whether you answered that question however if you remove the lean burn unit you will have to block the opening in the air cleaner to maintain integrity of the airflow. Best just leave the Leanburn unit attached but unplugged if you do not have an older style air cleaner to use.
Is the distributor hard to remove and install? Looks there is a air conditioner line that runs on top?
 
It will work with an AVS2 but you would leave half the benefits of converting to the AVS2 carburetor behind. The computer only controls the spark timing/advance and nothing else. Taking off the computer and replacing it with a distributor is way better so just get a competent guy with some electrical wiring knowledge to wire up a regular distributor with good amounts of spark advance available that would be governed by the distributor you would replace the lean burn computer with. You would also need to replace the intake manifold to bolt on an AVS2 carburetor.

Get someone competent to help you if you are not experienced with this kind of changeover and you will enjoy the car immensely more - night and day better. Things done by half are never the way to go IMO. The formals can be nice cars overall as they are quiet and ride well going down the highway and exude some opulence when the overall package is done right under the hood and you will pay for these changes in terms of fuel savings over time. Go the whole 9 yards.
 
The TQuad works with the factory divorced choke where the choke thermostat is on/in the intake manifold. In some later models, it has an "electric assist" for that thermostat.

The aftermarket carburetors are available with a manual choke and also with an electric choke version, the customer's option. The electric choke is a better option unless the customer desires to install a manual choke cable and such into the car.

CBODY67
Does the old carb have electric choke?
 
My 77 NYB has a 400 in it. The lean burn is completely removed and I have an edelbrock 650 carb with electric choke, and a pertronix distributor and electronic ignition. The car runs great, way better than with the Carter TQ carb. My lean burn was non-functional when I bought the car.
Was the distributor hard to take out seems like there is a air condition hose over it? Can you send pics on what looks like with conversion?
 
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