1978 Newport... replacing ball joints

[Cadee]

I need to pay someone to replace all 4 ball joints in my 78 Newport, does anyone have an idea how many hours they should be charging me for?
Or, if there is some kind of web site that would tell me this.
Thank you.

 

[Big_John]

I can't tell you a price, but if you really need all 4 ball joints, chances are good that you should replace the control arm bushings too, especially the lower ones.

 

[66l78rat]

I had my 75 Gran Fury complete steering&suspension done last year.$900 for all nos MOOG parts from Craig at mobileparts and $1300 labor including alignment.Just make sure you find a old school shop who knows old Mopars

 

[MoPar~Man]

I would buy all the parts first and then hand them to your chosen garage to do the work. My first choice for buying parts for any of my cars is Rock Auto, a lot of the prices are ridiculously low and you get the same parts that you'd get from a local supplier like Napa or CarQuest (all service garages and shops get their parts from local APC/Napa/Carquest retail outlets).

Your upper and lower ball joints can cost as low as $5 - $10 each (Mevotech / Dorman / Delphi) or if you feel spendy - $42 (Moog).

As to the upper control arm bushings - must be something different for '78 vs what I usually shop for ('67) because the '78 bushings are like $70 - $80. MOOG K7070 is $70 at Rock auto - for a pair. I don't see any lower bushings for sale (?). Tie rod ends are $5 to $15 each, I'd buy a pair of those just in case.

Replacing just the ball joints isin't too complicated, should not cost a lot, don't do the upper bushings unless they are really really bad because that will increase the labor cost quite a bit and you'll need to also pay for a wheel alignment.

Where in Ontario are you?

 

[Cadee]

Thanks for the parts info guys, i have all the parts, what i need to know is a rough estimate in "hours" it would take a shop to replace all 4 ball joints.

 

[Cadee]

I'm near Hamilton.

 

[MoPar~Man]

Thanks for the parts info guys, i have all the parts, what i need to know is a rough estimate in "hours" it would take a shop to replace all 4 ball joints.

I can't see it taking more than 2 hours. And don't believe them if they say you'll need an alignment done. Even a place like Canada Tire can do it (I don't know if they'll accept your parts or will want to use their own). @Ross Wooldridge might have a lead on a garage in your area?

Ask for your old parts back.

(also - the garage might not have the right ball-joint socket, that might be something to also buy and insist that they use).

 

[CBODY67]

Back in the 1960s and 1970s, it seemed that "lower ball joints" were something that some alignment shops would always sell to a Chrysler vehicle owner, slam dunk deal, back then. They'd jack up the wheel, get a pry bar and move the tire up and down to the owner's shock. ALTHOUGH . . . there was a spec for that movement AND with the car's weight on the joint, no slack. So from our experiences and what other Chrysler owners' cars did as they aged, the big bulk of those "worn" joints were really "in-spec" and no replacement was needed. FWIW

Certainly, wear CAN happen if the joints were not lubed as necessary, over the years. Highly unusual for all 4 joints to need replacing, unless you just wanted to do that.

The lower control arm pivot bushing is a hidden bushing that many don't consider to need replacing every so often. To remove the lower control arm, the torsion bars need to be moved rearward, which is more money.

NOW, as to the allegedly needed alignment . . . IF the car was not wearing tires, but eased into that situation, that means the car was in alignment when the ball joints were newer, so replacing them with quality OEM-spec parts should put things back to where they were, which then means the alignment should go back to where it used to be when it was in alignment. Same with the upper control arm bushings.

In getting rubber items, always tend toward NEW rubber than older NOS rubber. Rubber ages and the NOS items are the same age as your vehicle. Shelf life items exist.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

In getting rubber items, always tend toward NEW rubber than older NOS rubber. Rubber ages and the NOS items are the same age as your vehicle. Shelf life items exist.

^This^

 

[volaredon]

Not so with bushings. The alignment adjustment on these cars was with cams on the control arms that absolutely must be dismantled to get the control arms off, it's quite doubtful you will get them back exactly where they were.... I was an alignment guy for 20+ years, still so some front end work but don't have access to a rack anymore, I would NOT do bushings without at least hanging the heads and checking alignment. There are still ships that will "check" alignment this way and if no adjustments are done they charge less than they would for actually doing an alignment. Even with my experience I had a problem with my daily driver truck where it drove fine but absolutely devoured front tires ...
I'd figure on an alignment and if you don't need it id consider that a bonus.
As far as the claims of shoddy salesmen/ mechanics I can't speak for all but I will say that you cannot align slop out of parts. I've tried.
Ball joints even good quality ones aren't that expensive. Given the age on these cars I would be replacing them as a matter of preventative maintenance. I wouldn't do just one. I'd at least either do both on a given side or else do both uppers, both lowers if doing less than all of them. I do get the idea that I do all My own work, I don't have to pay to have any of it done except for the alignment. I've been on both sides of a situation where a car comes in and has been worked on and/or worked on by someone else before I get it. I've seen where they try to sell unneeded parts and where they "missed" something that should have been, and I'm sure customers have taken cars to other shops at some point after I've worked on them.
Don't skimp on something unsafe for $50-100. A wreck will cost you way more even if it "wasn't your fault"

 

[volaredon]

Back in the 1960s and 1970s, it seemed that "lower ball joints" were something that some alignment shops would always sell to a Chrysler vehicle owner, slam dunk deal, back then. They'd jack up the wheel, get a pry bar and move the tire up and down to the owner's shock. ALTHOUGH . . . there was a spec for that movement AND with the car's weight on the joint, no slack. So from our experiences and what other Chrysler owners' cars did as they aged, the big bulk of those "worn" joints were really "in-spec" and no replacement was needed. FWIW

Certainly, wear CAN happen if the joints were not lubed as necessary, over the years. Highly unusual for all 4 joints to need replacing, unless you just wanted to do that.

The lower control arm pivot bushing is a hidden bushing that many don't consider to need replacing every so often. To remove the lower control arm, the torsion bars need to be moved rearward, which is more money.

NOW, as to the allegedly needed alignment . . . IF the car was not wearing tires, but eased into that situation, that means the car was in alignment when the ball joints were newer, so replacing them with quality OEM-spec parts should put things back to where they were, which then means the alignment should go back to where it used to be when it was in alignment. Same with the upper control arm bushings.

In getting rubber items, always tend toward NEW rubber than older NOS rubber. Rubber ages and the NOS items are the same age as your vehicle. Shelf life items exist.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

But NOS parts have not been exposed to UV, or exhaust heat or the twisting and turning of being installed. I don't think I'd want 60s NOS but 80s wouldn't be so bad.... I'd rather but new but old parts than brand new sources from hong kong phooey -land.....
And your comments about "alleged" needed alignment, umm I don't think so. I've done alignments for years. If it didn't need it once I get it up there on the rack I'll tell you.
One thing that has a huge bearing on alignment is front end heit. Make sure your torsion bars are set right before you touch that first adjustment point.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Hmmm... I don't really have a suggestion as to a trusted shop in that area - however, @Mike66Chryslers is closer to Hamilton than I am, and may have a better idea.

 

[Cadee]

Ok, thank you everyone for the detailed info!

 

[david hill]

Too simply put it, quality ball joints pay for themselves in length of service. As for control arm bushings, old bushings flex w/ suspension travel which will cause toe out, pull under braking, bump steer to name a few. Does replacing control arm bushings cost more, the answer is yes. To pass on bushing replacement on a 47 year old car will give you less than ideal results. Shop time 8.0 + alignment ( stuck torsion bars will cost you extra).

 

[Boydsdodge]

If you get all the parts together, I can do the job here. I am in Toronto. I would be very surprised if you don't need lower control arm bushings. How rusty is the car?