1st walk of shame...Sending unit got me!

[Dsertdog]

Yes indeed.

She started to lose power and I got her off the road just as the engine died

Fuel gauge showed a half tank until she started to sputter, then dropped to E like a rock in a pond.

Had to walk to get a gas can, back to car to get wife's card (left my wallet at home), back to get a gas can at the farm store, then to gas station. Not far but had to cross major thoroughfare to get gas.

Got home by dusk.

I'm guessing this is a sending unit issue, rheostat shot or stuck on sending unit.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Until you get a GOOD SENDING UNIT AND GAUGE COMBO, I advise you to keep a 1-2 gallon can full of petrol in the trunk. Having just replaced the original with some sino-crap, I'm keeping my emergency reserve until I can find a good combo of gauge and sender. May try rebuilding the original one.

 

[LocuMob]

Sucks you had to walk, I've been there before. I never trust my fuel gauges, I drive them like a motorcycle, fill up at X number of miles.

 

[Joseph James]

I installed a new sending unit in my Fury. At completely full it shows 1/2 tank on the gauge. I’ll straighten it out when I have time. Meanwhile, I have no trust in the gauge at all. I do what LocuMob does.

Sorry to hear you ran out of fuel.

 

[jct]

Also make sure you trip odometer/odometer is accurate

 

[Gerald Morris]

Also make sure you trip odometer/odometer is accurate

Or at least CONSISTENT. Doesn't matter if the trip odo then gives results in furlongs per actual miles, so long as it does so consistently; enabling the driver to estimate when the tank needs filling. I use the GPS speed/odometer in my 'droid phone.

The BIG problem with fuel estimates for our working antiques comes from the sending unit. I saved the original and plan to rebuild it rather than further enable some sino-slaver to further profit off vending garbage to Decent Folk. I think I can actually apply some of the learning that got me that B.S.E.E. to contrive a GOOD 10-73 ohm potentiometer which I can affix to the float arm and vary over the prescribed resistance range.

 

[LocuMob]

At completely full it shows 1/2 tank on the gauge

I just found out mine reads the same way, but thanks to the new lock ring leaking, I'll be fixing that real soon.

 

[halifaxhops]

The aftermarket lock rings suck for sure re use the old one or find a nos one. I sold the crap at of them when I had them.

 

[Dsertdog]

The aftermarket lock rings suck for sure re use the old one or find a nos one. I sold the crap at of them when I had them.

Absolutely sir!
I read that somewhere on another FCBO post...

 

[halifaxhops]

Think moparmitch of FABO still has a few left.

 

[Joseph James]

The aftermarket lock rings suck for sure re use the old one or find a nos one. I sold the crap at of them when I had them.

I had a leak on mine. It was on me, though. Tough to line things up laying on my back in the driveway. Looked right but leaked.

We have a lift at work. I waited till everyone was gone for the day. Ran the car up, reset the seal and lock ring. No more leaks.

 

[73Coupe]

There are no accurate reproduction sending units currently made. You can bend the float arm to make up some of the inaccuracy, but the real issue is with the resistance of the winding.
There are a couple NOS sending units on ebay, but they're being marketed to neophytes by hostile sellers who won't agree check the units or answer any questions...

 

[Wilkiethegrid]

I had a leak on mine. It was on me, though. Tough to line things up laying on my back in the driveway. Looked right but leaked.

We have a lift at work. I waited till everyone was gone for the day. Ran the car up, reset the seal and lock ring. No more leaks.

View attachment 291213

I just purchased an after market sending unit for my 63 Dodge 880. Will I have to empty and drop the tank in order to replace it? I'm having a garage with a lift do it for me. Thanks for the warning in advance, good info.

 

[73Coupe]

I just purchased an after market sending unit for my 63 Dodge 880. Will I have to empty and drop the tank in order to replace it? I'm having a garage with a lift do it for me. Thanks for the warning in advance, good info.

I'm not sure about the '63, but I can r/r the unit on my '73 with the tank installed. Just takes a little wiggling to get it out.
If you've never had your tank out before, it might be a good idea to drop it anyway for inspection....

 

[Mid70's Chrysler Fanatic]

Or at least CONSISTENT. Doesn't matter if the trip odo then gives results in furlongs per actual miles, so long as it does so consistently; enabling the driver to estimate when the tank needs filling. I use the GPS speed/odometer in my 'droid phone.

The BIG problem with fuel estimates for our working antiques comes from the sending unit. I saved the original and plan to rebuild it rather than further enable some sino-slaver to further profit off vending garbage to Decent Folk. I think I can actually apply some of the learning that got me that B.S.E.E. to contrive a GOOD 10-73 ohm potentiometer which I can affix to the float arm and vary over the prescribed resistance range.

I have a '96 Dakota that gets about 17 whatevers per gallon. The only problem I have with the trip-odometer method is if I'm light on cash and don't fill the tank up completely, or if I forget to reset the damn trip odo at fill-up time.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I looked into winding one's own potentiometer from thin (30 AWG) nichrome wire, which at about 20 ohms/ft. should produce the desire range of 10-73 ohms. I looked at the old unit and think this might be feasible, though difficult. Tristar Radiator Rebuilt Fuel Sending Unit Specialist rebuilds the old units, and this may be the best option to pursue.

 

[Big_John]

My adventures with gas sending units and using a Meter Match to correct errors here: Gas Gauge Fix

A couple things I discovered on the way. The ground strap between the fuel line and the sender looks like it provides a good ground, but in reality, it's not doing it's job. The fuel line itself lacks a good ground. A ground strap attached to the body and the sender does much more. The second thing is the stock voltage limiter leaves a lot to be desired. There are some electronic alternatives that you can buy or make that will out perform the stock piece.

IMHO, the Meter Match is an excellent product and will correct any of the gauges with just a little work.

As it turned out, my replacement sender was good "out of the box". Perhaps it's luck of the draw or perhaps the results that some have with the replacements could be made better with a reliable ground and new voltage limiter. I don't know.

 

[Gerald Morris]

My adventures with gas sending units and using a Meter Match to correct errors here: Gas Gauge Fix

A couple things I discovered on the way. The ground strap between the fuel line and the sender looks like it provides a good ground, but in reality, it's not doing it's job. The fuel line itself lacks a good ground. A ground strap attached to the body and the sender does much more.

I use a doubled over bit of #14 AWG solid to ground the gas tank to the body, which I ground with numerous jumpers and such leading back to the negative post. I suspect most C-bodies still running lack ground continuity from the block to the end of the fuel line, given how often some of the old line rusts out and gets replaced by non-metallic line.

The second thing is the stock voltage limiter leaves a lot to be desired. There are some electronic alternatives that you can buy or make that will out perform the stock piece.

YEP! I got a nice little 5V supply. It allows some range to the circuit I now have in place. I also have a 100 ohm buzz pot I may put in if I think it will help with the overall impedance and response range of my **** gauge.

IMHO, the Meter Match is an excellent product and will correct any of the gauges with just a little work.

It looks like the best buy of its genus out there too. If I can't do better after 1 iterated replacement of the analogue components I now use, I'll go with it.

As it turned out, my replacement sender was good "out of the box". Perhaps it's luck of the draw or perhaps the results that some have with the replacements could be made better with a reliable ground and new voltage limiter. I don't know.

My sending unit leaves a lot to be desired. I think the actual empty resistance is just about 50 ohms. I'm willing to gamble one more time with one of these reproductions, and a better gauge, but if that doesn't do the job, the digital/programmable Meter Match option will have to be used. I may just get it regardless.....

 

[Hot Water]

I just checked out Meter Match's website. I saw a different one that I could use called the TachMatch. I can run it between the HEI style distributor and the tachometer on our 70 Cougar. This stuff is designed and manufactured in Washington state. Smart as heck and making it here too!

 

[ALLAN]

Yes indeed.

She started to lose power and I got her off the road just as the engine died

Fuel gauge showed a half tank until she started to sputter, then dropped to E like a rock in a pond.

Had to walk to get a gas can, back to car to get wife's card (left my wallet at home), back to get a gas can at the farm store, then to gas station. Not far but had to cross major thoroughfare to get gas.

Got home by dusk.

I'm guessing this is a sending unit issue, rheostat shot or stuck on sending unit.

I had to top up mine yards from the forcort, what's worse, doing that or pushing ?