2025 options for 1973 Imperial ball joint boots?

[Mauser-Oberndorf-AN]

The seal on the passenger side upper ball joint ruptured today when greasing; my impression from the service manual is that it’s a thread-in type rather than press-in type. I haven’t disassembled yet to find out whether the ball joint itself is bad, so who knows on that (I haven’t seen anything to indicate the mileage has turned over, and everything looks original). I took a look and saw a set of new ball joints sold by Andersen (Andersen’s ball joint set) and a big variety sold at Rock Auto, but wanted to know what others here have done in my situation: especially if there are some brands to avoid. Replace the whole thing, just the boot, try to find a boot from Energy of the right size?

Similarly, the driver’s inner tie rod seal looked ruptured and sure enough grease came out everywhere when I tried to add some; does the whole tie rod end have to be replaced in that case? If so, same question: any parts builders I should avoid?

 

[aaron72]

You can check with Craig @mobileparts here on this forum or also take a look at Rare Parts.

 

[mobileparts]

If you want just the boots ,
I have Tie Rod Boots for $ 5.00 each and
I have Quality Ball Joint Boots for $ 9.00 each….
Craig….

 

[Mauser-Oberndorf-AN]

Appreciate it, Aaron!

Doing some searching, I ran across this kit from Kanter that is supposedly a full front-end suspension kit (1967-1973 Chrysler Imperial Front Suspension Rebuild Kit | Kanter Auto), except for inner tie rod ends and the impossible-to-find lower control rod bushings. Any reason I shouldn’t take a look at this?

 

[aaron72]

Appreciate it, Aaron!

Doing some searching, I ran across this kit from Kanter that is supposedly a full front-end suspension kit (1967-1973 Chrysler Imperial Front Suspension Rebuild Kit | Kanter Auto), except for inner tie rod ends and the impossible-to-find lower control rod bushings. Any reason I shouldn’t take a look at this?

I don't really know the quality of the parts Kanter, who looks like has teamed up with PST, offers.

Craig, who responded above, is where I got absolutely every part needed for a complete front end rebuild on my 63 New Yorker and it's all old school components.

 

[Mauser-Oberndorf-AN]

I saw his comment after I posted my last and just sent him a DM. I’m not sure yet if I want to completely redo everything on the front end (why fix what isn’t worn out/broken yet?), so I’m trying to see what all my options are.

 

[aaron72]

I saw his comment after I posted my last and just sent him a DM. I’m not sure yet if I want to completely redo everything on the front end (why fix what isn’t worn out/broken yet?), so I’m trying to see what all my options are.

That's fair. Craig can do whatever individual parts you need, doesn't have to be whole kits.

 

[CBODY67]

Do the boots only. No need te replace everything UNLESS they are all fully worn out. The other thing is that, with many parts being sourced from Oriental production facilities, there is a strong suspicion that many "kit" parts will be from those locations, to ensure the re-seller makes profits. End result is that used OEM can really better than Oriental new! For many reasons.

Many people want "kits" these days, but as was mentioned a while back, if a parts re-seller is putting together "a kit", if they are seeking to hit a particular price point, SOMETHING usually is of lesser quality than if you bought all of the parts individually yourself, from the same parts manufacturer. "Kanter" is such a re-seller, too, fwiw.

When the cars were new, there were full-USA brands which had different quality and price levels. "Economy" brands, "Good" brands, OEM, and "better than OEM", by observation. Moog was in the "Better than" range. Dana/Spicer were in the OEM level, as was TRW, for example.

Personally, I would rather put my trust in the reputation of the BRAND than that of the re-seller. Which is one reason that NAPA can be a better source than big-box parts sellers. NAPA is closer if something doesn't fit or breaks, too.

On the other hand, once you do ALL of your due-diligence to see which brands NAPA might sell, THEN you can go into Rock Auto to look for the same brands, if desired.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[Mauser-Oberndorf-AN]

Appreciate the input! I’m skeptical of Chinese parts generally and even more so lately as some parts I’ve acquired broke 60 seconds out of the box.

 

[Toolmanmike]

.These are for Darts but they may have them for C bodies.

 

[CBODY67]

Is there a NAPA store nearby? Might also be something on the HELP! racks at big box parts places, too?

 

[mobileparts]

Awaiting your name and address in the P.M…..
Craig….

 

[Mauser-Oberndorf-AN]

Awaiting your name and address in the P.M…..
Craig….

Just sent!

For the benefit of anyone else who ever looks at this, I ended up deciding to buy a set from mobileparts directly, as he has U.S.-made boots that fit.

 

[mobileparts]

^^^ You will like them …. ( I DO !!! ) ^^^

I found this outfit a couple years ago —-
I have the China ones for $ 5 each and
The *** U.S.A. made *** ones for $ 9 —-

And , I sell the *** U.S.A. made *** Ball Joint Boots
40 — to — 2 over the China ones…..
Craig….

( And you are even paying less because of the package deal )

 

[Clover]

I don’t know if they’re still available but I bought replacements from the dealer last time I needed them. They’re the same as full-size vans, which were manufactured into the early 2000s.

 

[3175375]

If @mobileparts has any items that you may need, go there and secure them, without hesitation. It will then be done!