300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Well, I'm no Nick or Tom, but this was a good day for me. The glass is out and still in one piece.
300rag's 69 Monaco 500 started
- Thread starter 300rag
- Start date
Why is your car wearing a Burka?
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Inclusivity. Didn't you get the memo from Prime Minister Sunny Ways?
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
OK you body guys, what is best to use for this? Just filler, or weld in a strip first to make the depression shallower?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Lead. No shrinkage.
There's a funny comeback in their about a pencil and cold water but just can't put it together....
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
If you're not putting the vinyl top back on lead would be the best. If the vinyl is going back on all metal type filler will be good enough. Ok here's my horror story about those quarter to roof seams. I was doing a 71 Cuda and I filled the seams with all metal as I had done many times before with no problems. On this car I was ready to paint and was doing the final wipe down when I could feel a depression all along the seam on both sides. I blocked it down and put a skim coat of filler on and called it good. I put it out in the to dry and within minutes the seam had shown up again. So I contacted the rep for USSC who makes the All metal. He came to my shop and was baffled. He said I was doing everything right including adding extra catalyst to make it harder. They tried to duplicate the problem in their lab with no success. What I finally found out after posting my problem on Moparts is that for some unknown reason E bodies will do this every time if you don't lead the seams. Why B, C or A body's don't do it is a mystery. The seams are identical to the e bodies. But because of the hard lesson I learned I lead all quarter to roof seams no matter what car it is. In your case Peter all metal should work fine especially since not many guys out there can or will work with lead.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Would there be any advantage to tack in a strip of metal to cover the gap, or is that just too much effort? My thought was if the whole gap was filled in with steel and then worked on with the grinder, very little filler would be needed.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
That would probably just be unnecessary work. Fill it with All Metal and you'll be good.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
The All Metal should be good for my lifetime, since the original plastic filler lasted 47 years.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Patches ready. I think my mason, I mean welder, and his apprentice are coming by Friday to tack them in place.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
He had a helper too. Thanks, guys.
CanCritter
Senior Member
was a fun day...only started one fire....
Well it wasn't your garage...
And Graham got upgraded from "spectator" to "apprentice"... excellent progress on all counts.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Do you wear anything besides sweats?
Do you wear anything besides sweats?
In Critter's defense those were his dress sweats....P lives in a nice neighborhood
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
Coming along nicely! Buckets console car! Very cool. Gonna be doing the same type of rust repair on my 71 when I get it here. Great work!
69_topless
Member
Good to see another 69 being loved. I have Polara 500 asking for my attention since 2008 
I was forced to adress the rust at the beginnig, resulting in complete strip down. But for some reason, I have lost the metalic clip holding the moulding lips on the rear trunk doors. I was trying to replicate them once, but not really hard or succesful. The moulding holds in place quite OK for many years even without these inserts in place, but I still want to duplicate it.
Would you be please so kind and would remove the moulding and took couple of pictures of the metalic insert, so I can try to duplicate it based on your picture? There is no rush at all from my side, do it just in case you get around it. Thanks in advance.
The metal piece is inside of the moulding, located on the inner side, where the tailights ends.
I was forced to adress the rust at the beginnig, resulting in complete strip down. But for some reason, I have lost the metalic clip holding the moulding lips on the rear trunk doors. I was trying to replicate them once, but not really hard or succesful. The moulding holds in place quite OK for many years even without these inserts in place, but I still want to duplicate it.
Would you be please so kind and would remove the moulding and took couple of pictures of the metalic insert, so I can try to duplicate it based on your picture? There is no rush at all from my side, do it just in case you get around it. Thanks in advance.
The metal piece is inside of the moulding, located on the inner side, where the tailights ends.
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