361 5.9l rebuild for 62 Chrysler Newport

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We have spent 3 plus years making this our own. Finished all brakes, suspension, steering, interior. Etc.
It time for the drive train! Engine and tranny.
She currently runs well and drives great!
Any suggestions on how to get more power. Some of our thoughts are:
New intake manifold
Four barrel Carb
New crankshaft (not sure if that helps)

What are your thoughts? Anyone know a place in Utah that can help. We will pull the motor.

IMG_1376.jpeg
 
If she runs well do you really want to mess with it?

That being said, something like an Edelbrock performer intake for a 383 and a 4 barrel carb of choice will help.

Dual exhaust already there? 2.25 max pipe diameter.

Any money spent on the engine would be in the cylinders heads IMO. A little porting/bowl work and maybe some 1.74 exhaust valves (providing there are no clearance issues with the small bore).I am not familiar with 361's other than I think a larger intake valve doesn't clear the bore.

No reason to go beyond that IMO.
 
If she runs well do you really want to mess with it?

That being said, something like an Edelbrock performer intake for a 383 and a 4 barrel carb of choice will help.

Dual exhaust already there? 2.25 max pipe diameter.

Any money spent on the engine would be in the cylinders heads IMO. A little porting/bowl work and maybe some 1.74 exhaust valves (providing there are no clearance issues with the small bore).I am not familiar with 361's other than I think a larger intake valve doesn't clear the bore.

No reason to go beyond that IMO.
Thank you, I have been looking at the edelbrock intake and carbs.
 
On the carburetor issue . . . the current carburetors are set-up for a throttle linkage that pulls. I believe your's might push? In that case, check out @Sir Dodge alot postings of how he adapter a modern Edelbrock to his Dodge 880 361.

Remember, too, that your existing 2bbl is the front half of an approx 600cfm 4bbl. Which means no additional power until over 3000rpm or thereabouts. The advantage of an Edelbrock AVS2 is the better venturi design for better fuel atomization and possibly a little better throttle response and mpg on the road. Most of the OEM 4bbls, back then, were about 550cfm. FWIW

Adding aftermarket cyl heads could also mean the need to change to the 6-bolt valve covers, too. As mentioned, the smaller bore might mean bigger valves would shroud air flow, so no real gains as with a 383. Better to have a higher-velocity intake system than lower-velocity (with bigger valves) for better normal driving response (as it now should be). Which means that "undercut valve stem" valves would be a better option in that respect.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
I think you mean a new "camshaft". I think it might not be a bad idea to change the timing chain and sprockets if it has never been done. You could install a new cam and lifters at that time. An Edelbrock manifold and 600cfm carb would work well. And as said above, a good dual exhaust system. If it runs good now and has decent compression, I would leave the heads alone. I'm pretty sure you would need to notch the block for bigger valves. My brother bought a new 59 Plymouth Sport Fury with the 305hp 361. It had a four barrel, duals, a hotter cam and I think it had a dual point dist. Back in 1959 it was a pretty quick car.
 
Yes the 1962 carb linkage is a solid rod and it pushes forward. So you would need to get an original AFB from the era.

I'd leave the 1.60 exhaust valves in a 361. Definatly a different camshaft. Compression ratio in the mid 9's would good.

Need to check out the rear end gear ratio, a 3.23 would be good to have. Anything in the 2's will hurt performance on a 361 and a heavy car.
 
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The original 350 B-block 2x4bbl Fury V-8 or 1958 had a cam with 252/252/.390 specs, which carried forward for several years in almost all B/RB motors, last used on the 383 2bbl of 1966. Going to something akin to the later 383/440 4bbl 256/260/.425 cam of 1966 would be a neat increase. Similar duration and more lift. Should work with the existing torque converter, too.

Concur on the timing chain.

I suspect the rear axle ratio is 2.93, rather than the later 2.76s for Newports. That might be good as it is.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Greetings. I have a 61 Newport and have rebuilt my 361 to the following. Firstly, leave the heads alone. They are higher compression closed chamber heads. Remember, these same heads were also used on 413s. I used an aftermarket 272/282 cam (forget who's), a 4bbl air cleaner (depending on space and looks you can use the round snorkel 60's 4bbl cleaner or a mid 70's dual snorkel as they have a lower profile), a high output coil (round, not the big square one, no sense drawing attention to it), high output oil pump, dual exhaust (performance 383/400/440 manifolds do not clear the starter, or you can use hugger headers if not concerned about factory looks and move to 2 1/2 pipes), a 1968-71 383 4bbl intake (these had great flow and look like they belong), if you can hide it try electronic ignition, and a 600ish cfm edelbrock carburetor. The linkage is on the correct side. Just have one of Edelbrock's Chrysler linkage adapters handy in case you need it. Your exhaust manifolds can also use the exhaust manifold gasket that has the extra material across the top (looks wider or longer than expected) so that it deflects the heat away from the head/valve cover joint area. They work very well. As mine is a 3 speed manual A745 trans, I have the 3.23:1 factory ratio. Works great. This engine configuration provides a machinist's estimate of 320hp. Haven't been on the dyno, but seems about right. Remember a 361 is a baby 383 and will deliver lots of performance, use anything a 383 can use, and provides decent fuel performance if you treat it right. Oh, depending on your exhaust choices, you may have to explore the shortened header plugs from ACCEL to clear your manifold/header. If you choose headers you will also need to review the routing and thermal protection of your of your ignition wires. It all comes down to personal choice and preference. Enjoy!
 
Greetings. I have a 61 Newport and have rebuilt my 361 to the following. Firstly, leave the heads alone. They are higher compression closed chamber heads. Remember, these same heads were also used on 413s. I used an aftermarket 272/282 cam (forget who's), a 4bbl air cleaner (depending on space and looks you can use the round snorkel 60's 4bbl cleaner or a mid 70's dual snorkel as they have a lower profile), a high output coil (round, not the big square one, no sense drawing attention to it), high output oil pump, dual exhaust (performance 383/400/440 manifolds do not clear the starter, or you can use hugger headers if not concerned about factory looks and move to 2 1/2 pipes), a 1968-71 383 4bbl intake (these had great flow and look like they belong), if you can hide it try electronic ignition, and a 600ish cfm edelbrock carburetor. The linkage is on the correct side. Just have one of Edelbrock's Chrysler linkage adapters handy in case you need it. Your exhaust manifolds can also use the exhaust manifold gasket that has the extra material across the top (looks wider or longer than expected) so that it deflects the heat away from the head/valve cover joint area. They work very well. As mine is a 3 speed manual A745 trans, I have the 3.23:1 factory ratio. Works great. This engine configuration provides a machinist's estimate of 320hp. Haven't been on the dyno, but seems about right. Remember a 361 is a baby 383 and will deliver lots of performance, use anything a 383 can use, and provides decent fuel performance if you treat it right. Oh, depending on your exhaust choices, you may have to explore the shortened header plugs from ACCEL to clear your manifold/header. If you choose headers you will also need to review the routing and thermal protection of your of your ignition wires. It all comes down to personal choice and preference. Enjoy!
Great information, thank you
 
On the carburetor issue . . . the current carburetors are set-up for a throttle linkage that pulls. I believe your's might push? In that case, check out @Sir Dodge alot postings of how he adapter a modern Edelbrock to his Dodge 880 361.

Remember, too, that your existing 2bbl is the front half of an approx 600cfm 4bbl. Which means no additional power until over 3000rpm or thereabouts. The advantage of an Edelbrock AVS2 is the better venturi design for better fuel atomization and possibly a little better throttle response and mpg on the road. Most of the OEM 4bbls, back then, were about 550cfm. FWIW

Adding aftermarket cyl heads could also mean the need to change to the 6-bolt valve covers, too. As mentioned, the smaller bore might mean bigger valves would shroud air flow, so no real gains as with a 383. Better to have a higher-velocity intake system than lower-velocity (with bigger valves) for better normal driving response (as it now should be). Which means that "undercut valve stem" valves would be a better option in that respect.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
Thank you
 
We have spent 3 plus years making this our own. Finished all brakes, suspension, steering, interior. Etc.
It time for the drive train! Engine and tranny.
She currently runs well and drives great!
Any suggestions on how to get more power. Some of our thoughts are:
New intake manifold
Four barrel Carb
New crankshaft (not sure if that helps)

What are your thoughts? Anyone know a place in Utah that can help. We will pull the motor.

View attachment 701731
I agree with comments on dual exhaust and 4bbl carb, but would not wasted time or money on heads as you're still stuck with the log type exhaust manifolds holding back on breathing. It's not a crossram 300J from 63 with appropriate cast iron headers, so just have fun with the least intrusive and easiest upgrades.
 
hard to find pistons when you need a rebuild even 413 are hard to find
is this a resto matching number thing?
if so keep all the original parts\
what are your goals
 
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