383 HP exhaust manifold sleeve nut head's broken

[Chrome58]

Hello,

I was trying to remove the passenger side exhaust manifold and (of course) after removing them all, the last rusted nut wouldn't move. It's one of the 2 sleeve nuts that are located just above the exhaust pipe connection. The head finally broke, leaving the sleeve inside the hole.

I tried a reversed threaded thing, but without success. I'm considering drilling a passage inside the sleeve so that I can spray penetrating oil where the sleeve is in contact with the stud.

What are my other options ?

Thanks.

 

[detmatt]

Does the engine happen to be out of the car? If not, removing the head so this can be done on the bench will be your best bet to do this without damage to the head.

 

[Chrome58]

Does the engine happen to be out of the car? If not, removing the head so this can be done on the bench will be your best bet to do this without damage to the head.

No, the engine is still on the car.
But the whole front clip is off.

 

[Big_John]

Can you take a picture and post it?

If there's enough of the sleeve intact you can use it to guide a drill into the stud.

 

[Chrome58]

Can you take a picture and post it?
If there's enough of the sleeve intact you can use it to guide a drill into the stud.

Of course, here's a picture.

In the meantime, I went ahead and drilled a straigth passage into the stud "chamber". I poured penetrating oil, and I'll let it soak for a few days. Then I'll try again the reverse thread extracting tool, if there's no better alternative.

BTW, I wanted to remove the manifold because I need to remove those spark plug shields (which I think are somehow attached with the manifold), because I need to have better access to the bolts that attach the exhaust pipe, to remove them (and the exhaust pipe).

 

[Ripinator]

Of course, here's a picture.

In the meantime, I went ahead and drilled a straigth passage into the stud "chamber". I poured penetrating oil, and I'll let it soak for a few days. Then I'll try again the reverse thread extracting tool, if there's no better alternative.

BTW, I wanted to remove the manifold because I need to remove those spark plug shields (which I think are somehow attached with the manifold), because I need to have better access to the bolts that attach the exhaust pipe, to remove them (and the exhaust pipe).

View attachment 626192

Do NOT use an extractor. They always break, and then you are totally screwed.

 

[413]

Does the engine happen to be out of the car? If not, removing the head so this can be done on the bench will be your best bet to do this without damage to the head.

How are you going to remove the bottom row of head bolts with the exhaust manifold in the way?

The heat shield is held on with the head bolts.

Drill baby drill! You are doing the right thing to remove it.
One time I had to drill out the entire thing to remove the manifold.

Next time just remove the spark plugs and gently bend the shield out of the way to get the collector bolts out without removing the manifold. Then bend the shield back in place.

 

[HWYCRZR]

A left hand drill bit can be your friend.

 

[Chrome58]

Can you take a picture and post it?
If there's enough of the sleeve intact you can use it to guide a drill into the stud.

Hello @Big_John.
I've posted the picture.
What's your advice ?

 

[Big_John]

Hello @Big_John.
I've posted the picture.
What's your advice ?

Sorry. I thought you had it covered.

My advice is heat the nut with a torch and let it cool a couple times and see if it turns out. If that doesn't work, the next thing to do is to drill more until that nut basically falls off or there is so little left that you can turn it off. You'll have to deal with the stud once the manifold is off, but there should still be a bit sticking out of the head.

To remove the stud, I'd soak it with penetrating oil and maybe a little heat. If that doesn't work, I'd weld a nut on it and it should back right out then. See about a jillion YouTube videos on removing broken bolts by welding a nut on.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Welded nut, the heat helps it let go. I have always turned those sleeve nuts red with heat before I try to remove them.
Since you have the length to work with I would pack a little anti seize copper grease in the sleeve before welding the nut on.

 

[volksworld]

i agree with john...heat cherry red with a torch, let cool, repeat...shoot with some penetrant to shock/shrink it...since at this point its just a sleeve it should come loose fairly easily...i wouldnt try to drill it out as now you would have to deal with getting the stud out of the head and if the rusted sleeve nut snapped instead of unscrewing stud and all it doesnt want to come out either...with enough heat cycles extractor should take it off just dont use excessive force as they can snap (dont use a cheap one) or expand the sleeve till it jams against the inside of the hole...Bernzomatic sells a small oxygen/mapp gas brazing set that uses the little disposable bottles like their propane torches

 

[fury fan]

It's always easier said than done, but I would try to weld a grade 5 bolt into that sleeve.
Welding a nut on is more difficult as you either need to get the weld inside the nut (not easily done for a 3/8 size nut), or if you weld on the outside you risk welding some of the hex away.
Plus - welding inside the nut in this situation, there's a big void in the sleeve from the drilling.

But welding a bolt - you can have it stick out a bit so the hex is not welded, and gives a bit more space for welding to the drilled-out sleeve.

 

[cudamark]

Yup, heat, tap with hammer, soak with penetrating oil (not necessarily in that order) and repeat a half dozen times over a couple of hours. Then use a 4 fluted easy-out, not the reverse spiral type, and gently twist. repeat as necessary until it breaks loose. Don't heat the easy-out or twist too hard or you may break it off. Use the largest one that will fit tight in the hole.

 

[Milo]

I have used a angle drill with good luck Drill in the center as straight as you can