383 info

[70bigblockdodge]

Dave: I just now saw this post. . . Does this issue also apply to the early '66 440 engines? As you may know, I'm having one rebuilt, and it will have a new cam and lifters.

I don't know WTF he is talking about oil pressure. The galley is in the same spot on all B and RB engines. If your pushrods that came out are tapered at the bottom, or top if you have it upside down, you will need new pushrods you will have to go find 67 down lifters easier to change pushrods

Edit: friend of mine has a 413 in a 64 Polara started clacking he pulled V.C. and found a non spin lifter and taper pushrods. He put a used lifter out of a 340 in and put the taper pushrods back, and went racing. Anything will work for a while.

 

[Georgia Mopar]

I am building my 383 right now and have been asking a lot of these same questions. I pulled the motor out of my 1967 plymouth sport fury. The intake and heads numbers match for the 67 Plymouth. When I cleaned the block it is stamped F383 HP which tells me it is a 1970 block. So, someone has had this apart in the past. I was wondering what lifters I needed to order for it since it has a 1970 block and 1967 (516) heads. I was told to order for the block. So, I ordered a comp cams cam kit with lifters for 1968 and up. Well, I get them and compare them to the old ones and they are a little taller . The ones that were in the block were the 1967 lifters and 1967 push rods. I have been trying to read all I can to find out about the differences in these 383's. I have found that the 1967 push rods are 5/16 on one end and 1/4 on the other. The 1968 and up pushrods are 5/16 on both ends. The 1967 lifters are a little shorter than the 1968 and up. And the 1967 lifters made for the small 1/4 inch rod end to fit into them were the 1968 and up are made to only fit the 5/16 rod. What I am wanting to do to my engine and I don't know if it will work or not is : put a larger exhaust valve in the heads. The 516's are closed chambers but they have a 2.08 intake and a 1.60 exhaust. So I am going to put a larger 1.74 exhaust valve in it . I ordered Milodon megaflow racing valves for it. I'm going to have a 3 angle valve job and have the heads bowl blended. I ordered a compcams cam kit for it. It has a .470 lift and a 270 duration and 224@50 for both the intake and exhaust. It is supposed to be the largest cam you can run a stock stall convertor with. I ordered adjustable roller rockers for it . I also ordered a adjustable pushrod that is used to measure push rod length. What I plan on doing is with the taller lifter and higher lift cam is putting the head on the block bolting a few of the head bolts snug and from what I read about the adjustable roller rockers is you want to have no more than 2 threads showing out the bottom of the rocker arm, adjusting the rocker arms to 2 threads installing the adjustable push rod and getting #1 piston to tdc were both valves are completly closed. Then adjusting the push rod to the length needed. Then ordering pushrods to the length that I need. My question is do you think this will work or is there something else I should do ?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I am building my 383 right now and have been asking a lot of these same questions. I pulled the motor out of my 1967 plymouth sport fury. The intake and heads numbers match for the 67 Plymouth. When I cleaned the block it is stamped F383 HP which tells me it is a 1970 block. So, someone has had this apart in the past. I was wondering what lifters I needed to order for it since it has a 1970 block and 1967 (516) heads. I was told to order for the block. So, I ordered a comp cams cam kit with lifters for 1968 and up. Well, I get them and compare them to the old ones and they are a little taller . The ones that were in the block were the 1967 lifters and 1967 push rods. I have been trying to read all I can to find out about the differences in these 383's. I have found that the 1967 push rods are 5/16 on one end and 1/4 on the other. The 1968 and up pushrods are 5/16 on both ends. The 1967 lifters are a little shorter than the 1968 and up. And the 1967 lifters made for the small 1/4 inch rod end to fit into them were the 1968 and up are made to only fit the 5/16 rod. What I am wanting to do to my engine and I don't know if it will work or not is : put a larger exhaust valve in the heads. The 516's are closed chambers but they have a 2.08 intake and a 1.60 exhaust. So I am going to put a larger 1.74 exhaust valve in it . I ordered Milodon megaflow racing valves for it. I'm going to have a 3 angle valve job and have the heads bowl blended. I ordered a compcams cam kit for it. It has a .470 lift and a 270 duration and 224@50 for both the intake and exhaust. It is supposed to be the largest cam you can run a stock stall convertor with. I ordered adjustable roller rockers for it . I also ordered a adjustable pushrod that is used to measure push rod length. What I plan on doing is with the taller lifter and higher lift cam is putting the head on the block bolting a few of the head bolts snug and from what I read about the adjustable roller rockers is you want to have no more than 2 threads showing out the bottom of the rocker arm, adjusting the rocker arms to 2 threads installing the adjustable push rod and getting #1 piston to tdc were both valves are completly closed. Then adjusting the push rod to the length needed. Then ordering pushrods to the length that I need. My question is do you think this will work or is there something else I should do ?

Your doing it right. I would shoot for 0-1 thread showing on pushrod side at zero lash that will leave you room to turn a 1/4-1/2 turn or so, to preload the lifter.

 

[Two 67's]

Comp Cams Push Rods #7883-1 Howards Cam #CL727511-13, Lifter #91711 Doing This Build Right Now. I Had The Early 67 383 These Replaces The Older Lifters & Push Rods.

 

[Georgia Mopar]

Should I pre-load the lifters first ( let them soak in oil ) before using the adjustable pushrod measuring tool ?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Lifter has spring to hold cup up, you can just adjust to it.

 

[CBODY67]

The deal with E3s seems pretty close to the old SplitFire plugs. Main issue is to expose more of the flame "kernel" to the available mixture in order to get a stronger burn. The NGK V-series plugs will probably do the same for less money! And then there's my trick of using a pair of pliers to rotate the ground electrode such that 1/2 of the center electrode is exposed, rather than hiding under the ground electrode. Then use a point file to shorten the ground electrode so that it only covers 1/2 of the center electrode. Or, if you're strong enough, snip it off with a pair of diagonal cutters. Approximates the ole "J-gap" Champion racing plug from the 1960s. After all of this, rechk the gap for .035", or .045" with a stronger ignition system. With the ACDelco "RapidFire" spark plugs, all of that is already done, as it is with the V-Power NGKs. REMEMBER that with the SplitFires, E3s, or other multiple-contact plugs, the spark will only jump ONCE and to the electrode with the least resistance. Might increase longevity over a single-contact plug, but not worth the additional price, to me.

Some of the spark plug brands have the "real" number on them when sold individually. If they're packaged in "2s" or "4s", it's a different number for that packaging, by observation. Look for the basic number for a single package and go from there.

CBODY67