I read the previous comments on the forum relating to the rear driver side plug replacement. I have been doing this a long time. Just replaced what I thought were the worst, plugs on the C5 vette. Had to have the wife use small hands to replace the same rear driver side plug for me. But, on this car, the 66 fury, one has not room to get to the plug to start him, imo. I was going to take the recommendation to remove the joint cover, but there is one screw on the inside....very little room to remove. So, I jacked the car and got the old one removed and the new one started from the bottom, even with my large paws. Used the wrench, flex ratchet with socket, to loosen and tighten from topside, and pull and replace from bottom....I could not do it otherwise on this car. Big hand luke....so be it.
383 spark plug
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
Justin Plant
Well-Known Member
I've been told there were way more than one 7 plug tune ups leave the dealership back when they were new!
70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
#7 on mine comes out from below with a box end wrench.
GregG48203
Active Member
My brother had a '62 B-body Plymouth with a 361 four barrel that he picked up in the mid-seventies. It had one original Mopar factory spark plug in that spot.
cbarge
World Famous Barge in a Budget
Anything with HP manifolds the 7 and 8 plugs I get from underneath.
Also I use plug wire heat sheathings to avoid burnt plug wires.
Lopo logs my hands are small enough to get to the plugs. Yet the steering column and master cylinder presents other challenges. Lol
Also I use plug wire heat sheathings to avoid burnt plug wires.
Lopo logs my hands are small enough to get to the plugs. Yet the steering column and master cylinder presents other challenges. Lol
Wonderwagon
Well-Known Member
1978 Firebird F-body, passenger side front wheel removal to change out #8 plug, if memory serves
On our '66 Newport 383 2bbl, only two Phillips head screws on that gravel shield for the steering rag joint. Took them out and the cover fell off. With it off, a spark plug socket and a straight extension is all that's needed. I ended up leaving the cover off with no issues. When I put it back on, I only used ONE screw and it worked fine that way too.
Many B/RB B-bodies were "under the car" plug removal plugs, but then so were the B/RB Fuselage cars, with their higher fender lines and better exhaust manifolds, too. Mainly #8 & #7 plugs.
The "50K Mile Plug" on mid-'60s Pontiac 389s was #2 plug, under the a/c compressor bracket.
Many B/RB B-bodies were "under the car" plug removal plugs, but then so were the B/RB Fuselage cars, with their higher fender lines and better exhaust manifolds, too. Mainly #8 & #7 plugs.
The "50K Mile Plug" on mid-'60s Pontiac 389s was #2 plug, under the a/c compressor bracket.
68 4spd Fury
Senior Member
On mine, that had the HP manifolds, as I recall, difficult but not to bad. Combination of spark plug socket and u-joint adapter. I did though in the 70's had a 68 Barracuda with the same H code 383. That one I had to unbolt the left motor mount and jack the engine up enough to get to the #7.
Yeah to all great comments....I just finished skinning the rest of the knuckles on the easy side plugs, but all 8 in now.....hah! As a kid, I did this all the time with no problem. What do they say about the golden years.....garbage. But, one thing is very interesting, which is that in those old days, the oil change would last 3k and the plugs about 30-40k.....and I was along side the road many times cleaning the points in the middle of the nite. Recently, when I pulled the plugs out of the C5 I got last year at 100k, they looked absolutely new-ish....tan but great shape.....after 100k in that LS. This poor car has not run in years, and the fairly new autolite plugs are absolutely fouled out.....from the bad carb, etc. So, here is hoping this bad boy will run now. I keep remembering how reliable the old cars and engines were.....and hope to get back there.
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