65 Fury Lower control arm rebuilt/Stiffener?

James Romano

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Hello everyone. I've been planning on doing my entire front end and came across this nice kit for E and B bodies that PST sells. I really like their products and would like to have this for my Sport Fury. Quesition being, are the lower control arms the same for all models, or did MoPar make each body different? By looks, they appear to be the same, but I never go by looks alone, especially on the Internet.

Performance Mopar Lower Control Arm Deluxe Rebuild Kit - B & E Body

Does anyone sell a C-Body kit with the same set-up, being a greaseable/replaceable insert bushing and stiffeners?

Thanks!

JR
 
Fury and Sport Fury in 1962 - 1964 is a " B " body or " Pre - B " Body car --- much smaller, and so are all their Front End components.....

In 1965 - 1973, they are a " C " Body car , along the lines of Chrysler Newport , New Yorker , 300 ; Dodge Monaco / Polara ; and Plymouth Fury, Sport Fury, V I P......

" A" Body Drum , " A" Body Disc , " B " and " E " Body, and " C " Body , and Imperial --- are ALL very very different.......

I have been THE go-to-guy on Complete and Entire Front End Components, in the best Quality Parts possible in 2024 --- N O Chineseum garbage!!!
And, your avatar says you are on Long Island, so you can even pick them up --- FREE Shipping ......

I have all fifteen (15) Front End Components in stock ( NO Lifetime " Back Orders " )

SUSPENSION : Upper and LOWER Ball Joints, Upper and LOWER Control Arm Bushings.......

STEERING : Inner and Outer Tie Rods, TIE ROD SLEEVES, Idler Arm , and PITMAN ARM........

THE REST : Strut Rod Bushings, Inner and Outer Sway Bar Frame Bushings , Upper and Lower Control Arm Bumpers/ Bump Stops.......

P.M. me, as per forum rules, if interested.... Craig.....
 
Thank you both for the quick responses. I'm definitely interested in both.

Figured they were all a little different in some way, but without a side-by-side, I had no idea how.

Craig: I'll get the car up on jack stands and list what I need. I've done a lot already, but now it's all down to the suspension. I like the idea I can order what I need. A lot of these kits toss in parts I already replaced and really don't add the smaller stuff I really need.

I'll be in touch soon.

Thanks again!
 
The E-body platform was built off of the '68 B-body platform. C-bodies are unique to themselves, typically.

What is "stiffener"?

CBODY67
 
Craig is your go-to-guy for everything you need for your suspension and many other areas of your ride. Quality parts, reasonable prices & excellent service. Plus extensive knowledge of our old cars. You won't be disappointed.
 
^^^ Hey Jackson / BoydsDodge, ^^^
I guess the inferior / offshore ones need to be " reinforced "....such that they are adequate!!!
Yours, Craig....
 
I add the lower control arm reinforcement plates when I add a larger front anti sway bar. 1.25"
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Good for days like these.
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1708461469836.jpeg
 
Hello everyone. I've been planning on doing my entire front end and came across this nice kit for E and B bodies that PST sells. I really like their products and would like to have this for my Sport Fury. Quesition being, are the lower control arms the same for all models, or did MoPar make each body different? By looks, they appear to be the same, but I never go by looks alone, especially on the Internet.

Performance Mopar Lower Control Arm Deluxe Rebuild Kit - B & E Body

Does anyone sell a C-Body kit with the same set-up, being a greaseable/replaceable insert bushing and stiffeners?

Thanks!

JR
I did the firm feel weld on reinforcement plates from firm feel but went with rubber bushings all around instead for shock absorption reasons. Cant say what difference it made in feeling on the road since my lower ball joints, tie rods, and bushings were shot prior to the full front end suspension/steering rebuild. I will say just make sure you have them aligned properly on the LCA's prior to welding for the torsion bar adjustment bolt to pivot when tightening the torsion bolts. I had to pull mine back out and grind a little off the oval hole for the torsion bar adjustment bolt after starting to tighten the suspension back up.
 
I believe they are a good upgrade to stock lower arms. You can even tighten the pivot up in the arm by cutting one side of bump stop loose and squeezing the sides tighter on pivot. It's kinda like boxing the rear arms on a GM A body. I'm sure they were adequate in 1960 whatever but tires, shocks, roads, speeds are all different now so it's a worthwhile installation.
 
The shop that restored my 300 used a paper template to make reinforcement plates. My driver's side LCA was loose and wobbly (sorry for getting technical) after 250,000 miles.

IMG_3657.jpeg


IMG_3655.jpeg
 
I did the firm feel weld on reinforcement plates from firm feel but went with rubber bushings all around instead for shock absorption reasons. Cant say what difference it made in feeling on the road since my lower ball joints, tie rods, and bushings were shot prior to the full front end suspension/steering rebuild. I will say just make sure you have them aligned properly on the LCA's prior to welding for the torsion bar adjustment bolt to pivot when tightening the torsion bolts. I had to pull mine back out and grind a little off the oval hole for the torsion bar adjustment bolt after starting to tighten the suspension back up.
Did you go with greasable lower control arm pins? Or did you stay with stock? I'm still putting this all together and looking to take the car apart very soon, so still in the "thinking about" phase.

Thanks!

*** nevermind... I see they're only for POLY bushing, which they don't sell for the C-Body LCA.
 
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Did you go with greasable lower control arm pins? Or did you stay with stock? I'm still putting this all together and looking to take the car apart very soon, so still in the "thinking about" phase.

Thanks!

*** nevermind... I see they're only for POLY bushing, which they don't sell for the C-Body LCA.
I have poly bushings from Firmfeel on my '71 C Body.
'65-'73 C-Body Suspension Kit - HP Urethane
 
^^^ Thanks for showing that ^^^
NO Pitman Arm, NO Innner Sway Bar Bushings, NO Outer Sway Bar Bushings, Very Incorrect Tie Rod SLEEVES ( I / we can't blame them for NOT having correct ones --- I am the only one / outfit who does have them !!! ) and undoubtedly Chineseum
Ball Joints and Tie Rods --- and $ 975 !!! OUCH !!!

I could RAISE my prices nicely --- and still be a HERO !!! ( But, I won't.... )

Craig.....
 
Did you go with greasable lower control arm pins? Or did you stay with stock? I'm still putting this all together and looking to take the car apart very soon, so still in the "thinking about" phase.

Thanks!

*** nevermind... I see they're only for POLY bushing, which they don't sell for the C-Body LCA.
I went with factory lca pins since mine were in good shape and replaced the lower bushing with a rubber one. Firm feel I believe has replacement greasable pins for use with their poly lca bushings
 
Did you go with greasable lower control arm pins? Or did you stay with stock? I'm still putting this all together and looking to take the car apart very soon, so still in the "thinking about" phase.

Thanks!

*** nevermind... I see they're only for POLY bushing, which they don't sell for the C-Body LCA.
I put mine together from parts purchased from firm feel and rare parts. Unlike what craig had to say, most of the parts were clearly better designed than 50+year old parts including the 1 piece machined tie rod adjustment sleeves, and ball joints/tie rods with grease retention grooves built into the parts, and non rubber dust boots. Car handles amazing now! Just my two cents but I'm not trying to make a buck off my suggestions like others on here. If the 50 year old tech was still the best out there then guys wouldnt be posting on these forums all the time with the updates and upgrades for the original tech. If you're a purist stick with the old stuff and call it a day.
 
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