65 Polara Disc Brake Swap

[mopar_4life]

Hi,

I was wondering what was needed for a disc brake swap on a 65 polara? Would the spindles from a 73 new yorker bolt on? Would I need control arms?

Thanks

Eric

 

[BuzzBee]

By time you go to all the trouble of finding and swapping spindles you should just invest
in a disk brake swap kit supplied by after market suppliers. My 65 has an SSBC disk
kit installed on it using the existing spindles and Corvette calipers and rotors. Came
complete with flex lines, master cylinder and wheel bearings. Up and running in
four hours time, most of which was bleeding the master and complete system. SSBC
spec'd the Corvette style hardware because it gives you 4 piston calipers an 11"
rotors. Lots of stopping power. Other's make equally fine systems.

 

[Badvert65]

I used spindles and the entire brake setup from a 73 Newport. I think the New Yorker is the same. If you got it, swap in it. I converted my 65 Sport Fury back in the 80's and it's been fine ever since.

 

[mopar_4life]

Did you need the control arms? I already have a dual master cylinder in the car. I get the proportioning valve. So what else would I need? (besides pads/rotor/caliper/hardware)

Thanks
Eric

 

[Polara_500]

The spindle bolts right in, no control arms needed (assuming your bushings are good - if not, now's the time to do it right). I used spindles/rotors, etc. from a 72 Fury on my Polara back in the early 80's also and all has been good. Keep in mind that you will have to go up to a 15" wheel if you haven't yet - I found that out the hard way since it never even crossed my mind until the job was done and I went to put the wheels back on.
Mike

 

[Badvert65]

Yes, I forgot to add that you will need to go to 15 inch wheels. You will need a dual reservoir Master cylinder for DISK brakes, but they are easy to find. Get the proportioning valve from the disk car if you can.

 

[mopar_4life]

What is the difference between disc and drum master cyl. I already have a dual drum master.

Thanks

Eric

 

[Badvert65]

Two things, Drum brake M/C typically has equal size reservoirs and 'residual pressure valves' (helps drums actuate quicker). Disc Brake M/C will have a larger reservoir for the Disc brake half (calipers require more fluid volume) and there is no residual pressure valve (would make the calipers drag). That being said, the drum M/C may work, but brakes are something I don't like to 'experiment' with something like brakes so I prefer to use what the factory matched up.

 

[twostick]

You will need a disc brake specific brake booster too if the car has power brakes. The one from the 73 "should" work OK on a 65 but will interfere with the shift linkage on a 66 up to IIRC 71 unless they are console shift. 65 is cable shifted so if it will physically fit the car, you should be good to go.

The other option is a dual diaphragm one from an up to 71 disc brake car. They are the same diameter give or take as the single drum booster, just longer.

Get the combination valve from the 73 while you are there. As was mentioned, get a dual res disc brake master cylinder. The one from the 73 will be fine.

Kevin

 

[twostick]

By time you go to all the trouble of finding and swapping spindles you should just invest
in a disk brake swap kit supplied by after market suppliers. My 65 has an SSBC disk
kit installed on it using the existing spindles and Corvette calipers and rotors. Came
complete with flex lines, master cylinder and wheel bearings. Up and running in
four hours time, most of which was bleeding the master and complete system. SSBC
spec'd the Corvette style hardware because it gives you 4 piston calipers an 11"
rotors. Lots of stopping power. Other's make equally fine systems.

You would be the first person I have seen post a positive review of that company's product.

I've seen at least 2 threads in the last week alone complaining about having almost no brakes at all after installing one of their "kits" compared to the drums they replaced.

The problem usually boils down to mismatched components. Calipers with too small pistons and master cylinders with too large a piston equals low line pressure and no brakes. These are all inclusive kits that have all the parts so the mismatch is not the car owners fault.

If the OP has the 73 spindles and a compatible booster, he can buy the rest of the stuff new or re-manned at any parts store for cheap. No need to re-invent the wheel.

Kevin

 

[66SportFury]

You would be the first person I have seen post a positive review of that company's product.

I've seen at least 2 threads in the last week alone complaining about having almost no brakes at all after installing one of their "kits" compared to the drums they replaced.

The problem usually boils down to mismatched components. Calipers with too small pistons and master cylinders with too large a piston equals low line pressure and no brakes. These are all inclusive kits that have all the parts so the mismatch is not the car owners fault.

If the OP has the 73 spindles and a compatible booster, he can buy the rest of the stuff new or re-manned at any parts store for cheap. No need to re-invent the wheel.

Kevin

I have to agree with you. I have an SSBC system on my 66 and I still haven't figured out what the issue is. I have 4 piston calipers and everything is new and I mean everything. Car has no stopping power. Even with a dual diaphragm booster. It almost feels like it doesn't have rear brakes. The more I press the harder the pedal gets and the less stopping power it has. It sounds strange, but that's how it is. When I press on the brake pedal softly it stops better. Been dealing with this for over a year and still haven't gotten it corrected. SSBC has been good with trying to come up with ideas, but we still can't figure it out. On another note, my buddy has a 10 second Cornet RT that he has the same system as I do and his car has no issues with stopping.

Kit I have plus some!! http://ssbrakes.com/i-10092670-disc...manual-or-use-with-factory-power-booster.html

 

[65sporty]

66SportFury, how much engine vacuum do you have? Usually hard pedal means low vacuum.

 

[66SportFury]

66SportFury, how much engine vacuum do you have? Usually hard pedal means low vacuum.

That's not the issue. I have an SSBC electric vacuum pump due to the cam. http://ssbrakes.com/c-407222-shop-by-category-parts-accessories-vacuum-pumps.html

 

[BillGrissom]

66SportFury,
That does sound strange. Two thoughts are that perhaps a brake hose failed internally and has a flap of rubber acting as a check valve. This is actually fairly common. I know new hoses, but you know quality today. The other thought is that the MC is bottoming out. Insure your pedal goes back as far as the MC spring can push it, i.e. not being stopped by the brake switch, and that the MC piston reaches its back-stop (correct length rod from booster, some have an adjustable tip). Finally, you could have air in the system, especially the MC. Did you bench-bleed it w/ ~50 pedal strokes until you saw no bubbles in the clear temporary loop-back hoses? Are the bleeders on your calipers at the very top?

 

[66SportFury]

66SportFury,
That does sound strange. Two thoughts are that perhaps a brake hose failed internally and has a flap of rubber acting as a check valve. This is actually fairly common. I know new hoses, but you know quality today. The other thought is that the MC is bottoming out. Insure your pedal goes back as far as the MC spring can push it, i.e. not being stopped by the brake switch, and that the MC piston reaches its back-stop (correct length rod from booster, some have an adjustable tip). Finally, you could have air in the system, especially the MC. Did you bench-bleed it w/ ~50 pedal strokes until you saw no bubbles in the clear temporary loop-back hoses? Are the bleeders on your calipers at the very top?

We have done every test including pressure tests at all the bleeders with a brake fluid pressure gauge. All the numbers are within the specs that SSBC was looking for. The only part I have not replaced is the adjustable proportioning valve to the rear brakes. We even went as far as to replace the single diaphragm booster with a dual diaphragm and there was no difference. The air gap between the rod from the booster to master is correct, no air in the system and every part is new. I thought about the hoses, but with the pressure being ok and releasing, that's not an issue. The next test will be bypassing the adjustable proportioning valve to see what happens, but I don't think that will do anything due to the proper gauge pressure I got at the rear wheel cylinders. Really annoying.

 

[Catfish]

Anther vote for swapping over the 73 stuff.