66 A727 torque converter 19 spline.

Frank Odenthal

Frank Odenthal

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just Dropped the AT for rebuild and found this hugh red 12“ Converter with 11“ bolt circle.
It is stamped with a number R090.
Does anyone know the Stall speed specification ?
Shaking the converter makes a rattle noise. Is that normal.
It rans without any noise when Parked.
Can not find any balancing weight. How is it balanced?

C0DF9C42-24EB-415A-89FC-FD7FE4F8DEB8.jpeg


B1438A7E-58AF-4288-A940-134DC1E609BF.jpeg
 
A painted torque converter? Never have seen any stock-production ones painted. Must be aftermarket.

The ONLY marks which might suggest a stall speed were on the 1970+ era converters. Two sizes, 10.75" diameter and 11.75" diameter. The smaller ones were usually the higher stall speed models, but in later years, could have OEM stampings of "high stall" and "low stall".

Ultimate stall speed is a function of outer diameter, what is inside the converter, AND the power in front of the torque converter. As I understand it, a '68 Slant Six converter was used being the 1968 Road Runner 383, to get a higher stall speed in that application. Which was also probably a 10.75" converter.

As the engines 383s were "internal balance", NO balance weights needed, other than for basic rotational balance of the complete unit.

Your ultimate question is?

CBODY67
 
I was also surprised by the red paint job and the converter size as well.
I read that it should be 11.75" in diameter, but the outside measurements are actually 12.2" (310mm).
I was curious if anyone could comment on the specifications on the converter, per the R090 ID markings.

The Transmission has the correct part number for the build year and application (standard 66' 383) H2538334 and it seems to be untouched.
That was a California car with CAP California Air Package (emission regulations).
Have there been also made changes to the transmission or converter to comply with emissions regulations ?

Question about balance is answered, thanks.

Is that internal clonk noise when moving the converter (holding it flat and shaking back and forth) normal, or indicator for excessive wear/clearance between the internal components.
Is there a way to measure/judge if it's garbage ?

Is there any aftermarket converter on the market with 19 spline ? My research wasn't successful. Hughes had one but seems to be no longer available.

Thank you.
 
Thanks for the additional information.

Never did hear about any Clean Air Package information related to a different torque converter, when the system was being described in the magazines or Chrysler service literature. Only engine modifications to carb calibration and the ignition vac advance modulations. Never did look in the parts manual, though.

1966 TFs used a different spline count from the later TFs. That is probably why no one sells the 1966 converter, with different stall speeds, anymore.

In general, one of the "hallmarks" of the TF had always been how "tight" the torque converter felt in normal driving. PLUS its ability to control downhill speed in hilly areas, as a result. Some very graphic demonstrations of this in "On The Test Track with the 1957 Chryslers" and other similar videos on YouTube.

I have never actually measured a Chrysler torque converter, but suspect what you measured is what Chrysler terms a 11.75" torque converter. Measuring the bolt pattern diameter rather than the outside circumference?

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
 
Bolt circle is 11".
Thank you very much for sharing information.
That will make it tough to find higher stall converter for the planned engine upgrade.
 
Hughes converter's are painted red, steel crank car would be provided with no weights.
 
Probably should confirm spline count. Trans could easily have been swapped. Normal practice for high volume transmission shops would be to have rebuilds on the shelf ready to be exchanged.
 
I'm too far away to help, but I have a huge stockpile of 727 parts, and converters.
Unless you aredoing a dramatic build, the large converter stall on a 383 should still allow for idle in gear.
Changing away from 19 spline means using a pre 71 input shaft only.
The converter will rattle when empty.
Mopar converters are good for an extremely long time as the fins are sealed by furnace brazing. Fins don't hold debris from a trans failure like ford and gm.
Pull the drain plug and run solvent through it. As long as the one way clutch is good and interal endplay is in spec, its good.
 
CBODY67 said:
A painted torque converter? Never have seen any stock-production ones painted. Must be aftermarket.

The ONLY marks which might suggest a stall speed were on the 1970+ era converters. Two sizes, 10.75" diameter and 11.75" diameter. The smaller ones were usually the higher stall speed models, but in later years, could have OEM stampings of "high stall" and "low stall".

Ultimate stall speed is a function of outer diameter, what is inside the converter, AND the power in front of the torque converter. As I understand it, a '68 Slant Six converter was used being the 1968 Road Runner 383, to get a higher stall speed in that application. Which was also probably a 10.75" converter.

As the engines 383s were "internal balance", NO balance weights needed, other than for basic rotational balance of the complete unit.

Your ultimate question is?

CBODY67
Click to expand...
Hughes Performance paints theirs red, maybe check the number with them.
 
Big_John said:
If your trans is being rebuilt, and you can't find a 19 spline convertor, now is the time to change the input shaft on the trans to 24 spline.

I found this in a quick search. TorqueFlite 727 Transmission Upgrades - Poly318.com
Click to expand...
That is a nice Description. I have the Tom Hand handbook, but this is useful Ad on Information.
Not that easy to get all required parts here on the other side of the Pond for such conversion.
Many thanks.
 
Frank Odenthal said:
just Dropped the AT for rebuild and found this hugh red 12“ Converter with 11“ bolt circle.
It is stamped with a number R090.
Does anyone know the Stall speed specification ?
Shaking the converter makes a rattle noise. Is that normal.
It rans without any noise when Parked.
Can not find any balancing weight. How is it balanced?

View attachment 713629

View attachment 713630
Click to expand...
just did mine,, transtar has them 125.00 exchange,, and there nation wide
 
not a race car so early spline should work any rebuilder can rebuild if you need it
but
later shaft is stronger and there may be a higher volume oil pump that fits,
also you could put a lock up converter and pump in
time to do it if you are going to change
 
I would recommend NOT installing a lock-up converter and related pieces. The splines on the input shaft need to be hardened for best longevity. The OEM converter in my '80 Newport 360 "spun out" suddenly one day. A reman converter did the same thing, a few years later. For the 3% better mpg, NOT worth it to me.

I have nothing against the Chrysler lock-up converters if the car came with one, BUT issues can exist, as I discovered, over time. Getting it to lock-up at 53mph road speed (as the '80 does / 2.45 rear axle and P215/75R-15 tires) is good.

Just my experiences. YMMV
CBODY67
 
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