66 Monaco single brake reservoir to dual

[66MonacoWagon]

So, it's been almost a year and I'm finally getting around to changing the master cylinder. I bought the kit from inline tubes, but can't find any instructions since the box is long gone. I'm not understanding the proper way to install the distribution block and the inlet/outlet that is on the side. Can anyone that has done the swap take a picture of it installed?

Also - I've got the fitting to the rears and 1 for the front that are seized in the old block and can't seem to free them. What's the best way to free them? Can I use a torch? I'm wary in the confined space or if I should look into other options. It's soaking with PB Blaster right now.

 

[TxDon]

So, it's been almost a year and I'm finally getting around to changing the master cylinder. I bought the kit from inline tubes, but can't find any instructions since the box is long gone. I'm not understanding the proper way to install the distribution block and the inlet/outlet that is on the side. Can anyone that has done the swap take a picture of it installed?

Also - I've got the fitting to the rears and 1 for the front that are seized in the old block and can't seem to free them. What's the best way to free them? Can I use a torch? I'm wary in the confined space or if I should look into other options. It's soaking with PB Blaster right now.

I bought the same kit and can tell you there are no instructions. I haven't used it yet so can't help you with install. It may help if you can find a diagram from a 1967 parts book or FSM showing the factory layout for a dual master.
As far as the lines, if they are Illinois rusty, good luck. The fitting threads should release from a brass block ok but the real problem is the steel fitting rusted to the steel line. Keep applying penetrant and when you do try them use line wrenches rather than a regular open end. If the fitting and line both turn and won't break loose you may have to replace some lines.

 

[rapidtrans]

The front lines each have their own tap into the new dual/conversion distribution block. One is in the side by the bracket. You’ll need to make a 90 deg bend in your line. The rears use the single port.
If replacing your lines, Inline-tube makes a brake line kit with the bends you need for this dist. block. Good time to go all s.s.

 

[Dsertdog]

 

[rapidtrans]

Yeah. “We have a saying around here..........”.

 

[detmatt]

Will what has been said here so far apply to a ‘64 Imperial? I want to do the same thing to my Impvertible.
Stubbs, you can stay out of it, I’m sticking with drums too...

 

[Big_John]

I've done two of these conversions. One was a '63 Dodge truck. I used a '67 up dual master cylinder and a distribution block from a '68 Roadrunner. (happened to have one). The distribution block was used because it was a very handy way to connect the new plumbing to the existing plumbing.

The second was done on my '65 Barracuda and I used the Inline Tube kit that the PO gave me with the car. That had a very simple tee that was obviously custom made piece. I seem to remember some very vague instructions, but it was pretty straight forward on how it hooks up. Going from memory, look at the tee and you'll see 5 tapped holes. 2 are from the MC, 2 are going to the front brakes and 1 is going to the rears. Look into the holes and you'll see the that 1 of the holes from the MC "connects" to the 1 hole to feed the rear and the other hole from the MC "connects" to the 2 holes for the front brakes.

Run the tube from the rearmost port on the MC to the hole for the front brakes and the front port to the rears.

Since the OP asked about bleeding...

Bench bleed the MC first. Bleed starting at the left rear, then right rear, left front, then right front. I use a Mity-Vac (Harbor Fright has them), but usually end up pressure bleeding with Mrs. Big John working the pedal to finish them off.

You can buy self bleeder screws made by Russell. Introduction - Speed Bleeders - Russell Performance Products or you can also rig up a soda bottle with rubber hose for one man bleeding.

I didn't watch this whole video, but it looks like it illustrates how to do it with a soda bottle.

 

[detmatt]

Here’s how she sits now, anyway to test a power booster prior to bolting a new MC to it?

 

[rags]

you can also rig up a soda bottle with rubber hose for one man bleeding.

the clear vinyl tube is the trick. you can watch air the traveling out of the system. for a one man bleeder i use an EZE bleeder with a long clear vinyl tube. pull the plunger out, hang it open end up, hook it to the bleeder and it works the same as the soda bottle. i'll use it as intended to refill systems after doing complete vehicle brake line replacements. a very simple and versatile tool.

 

[3C's & a D?]

Here’s how she sits now, anyway to test a power booster prior to bolting a new MC to it?
View attachment 289374

Mityvac would be the professional way, most guys don't have one, including myself. You can duct tape a strong shopvac hose onto the boosters vacuum hose and feel the pedal inside the car. If it's good it will give you some feedback (pull back up)? I think, it's been awhile, it will feel different. Only use the shopvac for as little time as needed. You don't want to damage the diaphragm with excessive vacuum. Just thought of this- attach a hose from one of your running cars boosters, to the other cars booster.

 

[stubs300]

Stubbs, you can stay out of it, I’m sticking with drums too...

Judas Priest Matt, I know you are, it's been almost a year now since that. Why you even bringing it up? You tryin to get a rag outta me?

 

[detmatt]

Judas Priest Matt, I know you are, it's been almost a year now since that. Why you even bringing it up? You tryin to get a rag outta me?

Of course I am!

 

[stubs300]

Well then, Good Luck with that!

 

[TxDon]

I just pulled out the Inline Tube kit and looked at their distribution block, it doesn't look anything like what would have been stock, the bracket is on the wrong side and the tubing holes don't match the lines. You would think they would do it in a way that would not require bending or replacing the stock lines. Is there a source for a factory style 67/68 block that bolts in?

 

[mr. fix it]

I just pulled out the Inline Tube kit and looked at their distribution block, it doesn't look anything like what would have been stock, the bracket is on the wrong side and the tubing holes don't match the lines. You would think they would do it in a way that would not require bending or replacing the stock lines. Is there a source for a factory style 67/68 block that bolts in?

You may need to buy brass port adapters to get to the correct size in the master cylinder.
Here is a break down of the 67 distribution block
(This is the 67 dual master distribution block shown)

 

[mr. fix it]

Here is from the MC to the block

 

[TxDon]

You may need to buy brass port adapters to get to the correct size in the master cylinder.
Here is a break down of the 67 distribution block
(This is the 67 dual master distribution block shown)
312463/QUOTE]

Thanks, those pics help a lot. So apparently that 67 block is not reproduced?

 

[mr. fix it]

Not in the sense that it is a direct fit but they are out there in after market just not factory with the brake light warning switch...

Summit Racing or similar has distribution/metering blocks that will work.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Very interesting! I need to replace my single pot MC on Mathilda, and already found the 1967 stuff. I have ONE QUESTION for the Cognoscenti: Will the plunger from my single pot outfit work with the dual pot, MANUAL POWERED setup I plan to install? I've seen some 1967 manual (or mechanical) powered master cylinders, but finding them with the plunger has not been easy. Are such made of Unobt 666 or what? Should I adapt the old plunger to a dual pot cylinder?

 

[LocuMob]

Very interesting! I need to replace my single pot MC on Mathilda, and already found the 1967 stuff. I have ONE QUESTION for the Cognoscenti: Will the plunger from my single pot outfit work with the dual pot, MANUAL POWERED setup I plan to install? I've seen some 1967 manual (or mechanical) powered master cylinders, but finding them with the plunger has not been easy. Are such made of Unobt 666 or what? Should I adapt the old plunger to a dual pot cylinder?

I reused my plunger in my '66 when I went to the dual circuit master, and it worked fine. Don't remember if I had to turn it out or not, but I don't remember any hangups with the swap.