Ok, so my 66 Polara's AC blower only works on high. Everything I've read says it's the Blower Motor Resistor. Anybody have a clue where it is in the car? I'd like to inspect it before ordering one to make sure I'm getting the right part. Any other tips?
66 Polara Blower Motor Resistor
- Thread starter Fishfan
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rexus31
Senior Member
It could also be the switch.
The blower motor resistor should be on the drivers side of the plenum. Pull it, get the p/n off it and begin your search.
The blower motor resistor should be on the drivers side of the plenum. Pull it, get the p/n off it and begin your search.
The plot thickens. I found one of these on the firewall: http://www.classicindustries.com/product/1968/firebird/parts/19805.html
I wonder if it was modified at some point.
UPDATE: I think the relay I found in the firewall is being used for something else (possibly fast idle mechanism).
I wonder if it was modified at some point.
UPDATE: I think the relay I found in the firewall is being used for something else (possibly fast idle mechanism).
Last edited:
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
This is exactly why you must get yourself a Factory Service Manual.
I have one but not with me. I'm on vacation 200 miles from home. We came in the Polara because it's the only car I have that fits me, the wife, my two kids and her two kids. Plus there's things may have been modified on the car in the 38 years before I owned it.
Thanks. I've been prepping it for the trip all summer but something will always go wrong. On the way here I had a blowout on my driver side rear tire on the Interstate. I put on my full-sized spare and the tread separated on it 20 miles down the road. I felt like Clark Griswold, but I learned a valuable lesson. Though the tires only had 5,000 miles on them they were almost 10 years old. The spare was even older. Read up on it and the manufacturers recommend replacing tires every 5-6 years no matter what.
Got 4 new Hankooks delivered to the rental house we're staying at and had them installed locally (kept one of the old ones as a spare).
The AC issue is minor but annoying. Today it was 89 degrees in Ft. Myers with a "Feels Like" temp of 105. The high fan setting blows too much air across the evaporator and doesn't give it enough time to cool. On medium and low fan does not operate. When cruising at 45-55 the natural air flow comes out of the vents very chilly. But in stop and go traffic we're suffering.
Heading back to Miami tomorrow. Wish us luck.
It was there as you said. I hope it's the resistor and not the switch because I already ordered the resistor and cost me $90. Couldn't find any new reproduction parts, just NOS.
Well, I installed the $90 NOS Blower Motor Resistor and still now low or medium. So either you're right and it's the switch or that new resistor is a dud.
Now here's the thing. How the hell do I access the switch? From above? Remove the dash cap? I have the FSM and I'm still not clear on how to do that beyond removing the front edge molding.
Ugh.
rexus31
Senior Member
You'll have to remove the ash tray assembly and access it from there. You may need to remove the A/C / Heater Vacuum switch to get at the blower switch. It should be fastened onto the bezel by 2 or 3 phillips screws; at least mine was. That's pretty much the only way to access it.
rexus31
Senior Member
Edit: You've got a Polara. I was thinking Chrysler. My instructions probably won't help you out. Hopefully someone chimes in with a '66 Polara. Sorry.
I guess I'm going to become and expert real soon.
I peeked under my dash through the ashtray hole and it's tucked up there with the wiper switch, cigar lighter, corner of the radio in the way, and some sort of cover blocking it.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
You are absolutely correct. I didn't want to be the one to break the news to him.
It's these "minor" things that separate the men from the boys.
It's these "minor" things that separate the men from the boys.
rexus31
Senior Member
That sucks. On the '65/'66 Chryslers it is accessible without tearing the whole dash apart. A pain in the ***, but accessible.
I had a guy replace the pushbutton control unit years ago and I don't remember how he got access to it. We'll see. I think I just gotta start taking stuff off. I need to replace the front radio speaker anyway so I'll start with that. Then Ashtrays, Gauge cluster, moldings, everything.
I guess I better order that switch. Another $50-$60.
Question for the peanut gallery. Since I replaced the blower motor resistor and that didn't seem to be the problem, when I replace the switch (assuming that does the trick and I get low and medium back) should I put the old resistor back on and save or sell the NOS one I just put on? Or is there a chance that the old resistor WAS bad and caused the switch to blow?
I guess I better order that switch. Another $50-$60.
Question for the peanut gallery. Since I replaced the blower motor resistor and that didn't seem to be the problem, when I replace the switch (assuming that does the trick and I get low and medium back) should I put the old resistor back on and save or sell the NOS one I just put on? Or is there a chance that the old resistor WAS bad and caused the switch to blow?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Anything you have NOS that is for a car you are driving you KEEP.
And keep the old one on the shelf.
Or vise-versa. Up to you.
And keep the old one on the shelf.
Or vise-versa. Up to you.
TWR
Member
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I have a 66 Polara also.
I removed my front speaker grille and speaker and everything is right there.
I removed my front speaker grille and speaker and everything is right there.
Peanut gallery calling - there is no way that a resistor, wired in series, or parallel, or even series-parallel, can damage a switch.
Resistors by their very natures open like a fuse, they do not short, as capacitors can.
Use an ohmmeter to test your resistors - good ones check from 10 - 150 ohms, depending on the vehicle - i.e., Chryslers, Chevys, Fords, etc. Anything over that, in a 12V DC heater control system, especially 1K or more, is virtually an open circuit.
Now - before you buy another switch (I have dozens, don't pay fifty dollars for one, for Chrissakes) take the switch out and inspect for discoloration from excessive current. If it does not appear discolored, carefully take the switch apart by prying the four tabs. More than likely, you will find crud on the contacts, which can usually be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Reassemble and lube with WD-40, and presto - your switch should work.
How do I know these things - electronics is my field, and I've fixed hundreds of headlight switches, wiper switches, heater switches, and so on. I've also repaired Safeguard Sentinel lighting and Auto-Temp systems in old New Yorkers.
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