67 - 68 Slab Side Disc Brakes

[saforwardlook]

I have never owned a 67 or 68 slab side Chrysler, but a friend of mine is considering buying a 1968 Chrysler 300 with factory disc brakes. From what I recall, those were equipped with Budd brakes, and previous posts on this site have suggested parts are hard to find for these models and that there might be other drawbacks to this Budd design. Could someone with some knowledge let me know more about the availability of parts for these systems and anything else I should know? For example, one cursory look online did not yield a replacement source for the rotors, but maybe I did not look long enough. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks
Steve

 

[detmatt]

All I can say is that I couldn't find brake hoses for the front on my Imperial but they ended up being the same ones used on a Phord bronco. My brakes work fantastic and have needed nothing since I've had the car. I do keep my eyes open for brake parts though as I understand they might be hard to come by.

 

[67Monaco]

Not just brake parts but the ball joints. Rotors too. Though I heard someone was manufacturing them (rotors) again. Not looking forward to ever having to do the ball joints on mine. I've done the math, it'd be the same to do a swap to an entirely different front suspension, like a modern front suspension. Like cut the frame and graft in something else.

 

[68-300]

Rotors were reproduced by Durabrake a few years back, at that time they costed $200 each, not sure if they are available now.
Lower ball joints available at Rareparts, about $380 each.
Calipers NOS on ebay for $395 each. Re-manufactured $100-$200, a few years back I tried ordering them but cancelled it after 6 months being in back-order.
Pads only NOS available >$75 per set
Master cylinder widely available.

The 67 300 I've owned had the 4 piston BUDD disc brakes, I got new rotors, calipers and pads with the car and immediately put the parts on the car. The stopping power is awesome, no single piston disc brakes on other C-body's I've owned could match that performance.

My suggestion would be to keep the BUDDs on and keep them working as long as you don't need to change expensive parts. Immediately start looking for 73 C-body spindles, if you have them on the shelve you can always rebuild the brakes with the 73 setup in which new rotors, calipers, pads and ball joints will cost you $500-600 in total plus the advantage that most parts are available in car parts stores

 

[nzpacer]

I was able to source new seal kits and front hoses from Rock Auto and re-conditioned my callipers which were already "sleeved". Unfortunately my pistons were somewhat corroded and it was only a year before they started leaking again. I then purchased some new design pistons from Harmon Classic Brakes which were were still working perfectly up till I sold the car two weeks ago. I also purchased pads from Harmon. They were a great supplier as I'm in NZ and was accidentally sent the OEM seals instead of the new design ones to fit the new pistons......sent the correct parts priority to NZ at no extra cost, was very happy with the service.

 

[bajajoaquin]

Parts are available, it just takes more than a cursory look on the web. The online Imperial Club has tons of info about the Budd brakes. Rotors are currently available, but may not be forever. The Imperial guys got together and bought enough sets that it was worth while for a batch to be made. Those are still in stock, but for how long... who knows?

Calipers can be rebuilt. Rock Auto will ship them out, as mentioned. There's another company that will line them with stainless steel bores. Expensive, but forever durable. Pads are available. I bought new ones for under $25. I was able to re-use my lines.

With how much you would likely drive the car, how long would it take you to go through a rebuilt brake system? 10 years? More? I fully rebuilt my brake system for probably $600. A lot of money, to be sure. But over the time I have with the car, and the money and time I put into it, is the difference really that much? It's stock, it works really well, and I'll probably never have to do anything else to it. (Except the rear drums. They make some noise!)

As Matt said, tell your buddy to keep his eyes out for brake parts. They come up from time to time.

Wait: Do the brakes work now? If they're in good shape now, then don't mess with a good thing. Don't count the car out because of this. Buy it and start the brake part hoarding.

 

[saforwardlook]

Thank you for all the replies on this subject. They are really helpful. Since I do not know the slab sides very well, and the car in question is a Chrysler, not an Imperial, I would think the bolt pattern would not be the same between the two cars, so if Imperial rotors are available, that may not help much for a Chrysler application. The car my friend was considering did not have working brakes, and as it turns out, it seems the reason the person is selling it is because of all the expense and difficulty in dealing with these brakes. But it does make sense to spend the time and money if the job can be done right and completely as mentioned in the above listing, as drum brake Chryslers just do not cut it for me in high speed stops, as the fade is scary.

Steve

 

[bajajoaquin]

I think that Budd brakes are Budd brakes.

But if the car is being sold for bad brakes, then it should be available for a pretty hefty discount. Is it currently mobile? If not, there's really no problem taking the calipers off and having them rebuilt. Pads are available. Rotors are available. I'd measure the rotors first to see if they actually need replacement.

If this car is otherwise a good deal, I'd not let this stop me. If the car is straight, rust free, and clean, I'd even say this is an advantage. It's the asymmetry of information: your buddy now knows that brakes are findable, and fixable. The seller doesn't.

"Awww, man. It's a nice car, but the brake problems..... I don't know how I'll get those taken care of. How about $1500?"

And by the way, has anyone confirmed that Budd brakes were the only disk option in '67? I know they were standard on all Imperials, but I don't know about the rest of the Chrysler family.

 

[67Monaco]

And by the way, has anyone confirmed that Budd brakes were the only disk option in '67? I know they were standard on all Imperials, but I don't know about the rest of the Chrysler family.

Yes. If you got disc brakes in 67 you got Budd.

 

[68-300]

Since I do not know the slab sides very well, and the car in question is a Chrysler, not an Imperial, I would think the bolt pattern would not be the same between the two cars, so if Imperial rotors are available, that may not help much for a Chrysler application.

If I'm correct they are only selling the rotor and not the rotor/hub assembly, the bolt pattern on the rotor is the same for both Chrysler and Imperial, it's the wheel bolt pattern on the hub that is different for both cars.

I agree with Bajajoaquin that if the problem is in the calipers I would also repair or replace them, Calipers-online also offers them for sale. I would rather have a working 4 piston Budd system then the 1 piston KH system, as mentioned the braking performance of the Budds is stunning. If you take a financial look at it it's better to change over to 1 piston KH when you need to replace multiple parts like the lower ball joints and/or rotors.

I'm glad to see there are other members that take the effort to keep the budd brakes working, currently I don't have a C body with budds but I wouldn't turn down a deal because of them.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

The problem with the calipers is the seal is on a groove in the piston and if the cylinder bore is pitted at all the seal will leak against caliper bore. On Kelsey Hays calipers the seal is in a groove in caliper cylinder bore and the piston is chromed to resist pitting if it does rust/pit it can be replaced, if the the cylinder bore in caliper gets a pit due to moisture that collects in fluid it does not matter because nothing seals on it. Nothing wrong with Budd calipers just get leaky the stainless sleeves are a forever fix, but $$$$.

 

[bajajoaquin]

That's interesting. I never would have thought about the fundamental design in that way and how it affects longevity.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Apparently they did not either lol.

 

[67Monaco]

Thats odd I find them regularly at about $30 - $45 a set.

EDIT
errrrt I just saw rotors too. NICE.

 

[Dale E.]

All I can say is that I couldn't find brake hoses for the front on my Imperial but they ended up being the same ones used on a Phord bronco. My brakes work fantastic and have needed nothing since I've had the car. I do keep my eyes open for brake parts though as I understand they might be hard to come by.

What year bronco?

 

[detmatt]

What year bronco?

Brake Hydraulic Hose Front Sunsong North America 2203913 fits 66-70 Ford Bronco | eBay

 

[SPF Required]

Can someone drop a link in here for the rotors. I have a ‘68 300 with the budd disc brakes. Brakes work great, but would love the have a set of rotors sitting on the shelf.

Thanks!

 

[detmatt]

Can someone drop a link in here for the rotors. I have a ‘68 300 with the budd disc brakes. Brakes work great, but would love the have a set of rotors sitting on the shelf.

Thanks!

Call Durabrake, (408) 748-0400.
They don’t currently have any available on eBay so maybe they’re having supply chain issues.