'67 Newport headliner, windlace, and trim

I'm thinking about replacing the original package tray and found this on eBay:

1967 1968 Chry Newport 4DR SD Package Tray w Spkrslots Colors Available 67 68 | eBay

Price seems reasonable, shipping is a little high but I figure that's where their profit margin is.

Does anyone have any experience/opinions about this product and/or seller?

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks

John

I ended up buying one of these. Waiting for it to arrive. We'll see how it looks.

Other than some final tweaking of the headliner and a good detail lap on the dash, the package tray is the last thing.

It's been a long project, but in the end it was worth it. Would I do another headliner? Yes, I think I probably would.

I feel a lot better having done it myself rather than have someone else do it and having issues with their work or problems with the car when I got it back. And I know there were no short cuts.

Hopefully the pics and info help someone else with their project.

John
 
Now that I've figured out the pic posting on the new format, I figured that I would post the last part of this project: the package shelf and trunk divider behind the rear seat.

The package shelf is made by REM;
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Original compared to new-topside:
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Original compared to new-bottom side:
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The new one did not come with the anchor clips or sound deadener so I transferred to clips from the original and bought a piece of deadener from an upholstery guy.
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This car doesn't have rear speakers so I left the new deadener solid and used a sharpie to darken the area under the speaker slots. It's almost 3/8" thick foam:
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I used epoxy to install the anchor clips the the new package shelf:
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I laid the sound deadener in place and then dropped the package shelf on top. I put a thick folded up towel above the anchor clips and smacked it with my fist. It went in easily.
The flap on each side goes under the quarter trim:
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FYI, the package shelf has to go in before the rear window trim.

More to follow.
 
There's a 67 Newport Fast Top in Sebring waiting for you. Just where a guy from New York wants to be in February.
 
I traced out the original trunk divider on a piece of 1/8" tempered masonite and cut it out with a jigsaw:
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Then I installed it, climbed in the trunk, and traced around the supports. Took it back out and glued some carpet padding to the backside:
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Reinstalled:
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Next I lined the floor with more of the same padding. It's just laid in, not glued/anchored. I figured every little bit helps to quiet things down.
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Then I installed the rear seat back from the Custom 4DSD:
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Overall, I was very pleased with the quality and fit of the new package shelf.

I think that I've decided to find another complete rear seat with armrest and have it upholstered to match the front seat. So if any body has a decent core with armrest, send me some pics please.

I'll keep the original seats on a shelf for future possible reupholstering.

The only thing really left to do is tweak the headliner again to eliminate some wrinkles, and eventually paint and install the metal B-pillar trim that I got from C body Bob.

I can't truly describe how good it felt to drive this car again after all that time and work invested.

I stopped by to show it to a Mopar drag racer that runs his own repair shop. He's got a couple of pristine muscle cars that he had one of the local upholstery guys do the headliners in. I didn't see his cars, but he told me that my attempt was better than the seasoned upholstery guy.

That's not meant to be bragging, My point is that if you put your mind to something and take a lot of patience pills, you can do just about anything on these cars. Slow and steady wins the race.

Hope everyone enjoyed the adventure and that it encourages you to try it for your self.

John
 
View attachment 50692View attachment 50693View attachment 50694View attachment 50695I'm replacing the headliner in the 4DSD after evicting the mice. I have the entire interior removed. This car had all the windlace removed when I bought it.

After comparing it with the Custom 4DSD, I realized there are two different kinds of quarter trim.

The Newp has/had windlace all the way down to the rear sill plate. The Custom stops at the beltline.

The Newp has a quarter trim panel similar to a door panel. The custom has a plastic trim panel similar to the cowl kick panels.

First three pics are of the Custom. The rest are of the Newp.

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I would definitely put some quilted insulation (glued) on the top roof panel before installing the headliner. I've done this on three cars (Ford,Chevy and Mopar) and found it has real advantages - noise, heat and prevents headliner sag due to high temps at the roof panel. I used a spun grey matting I picked up at an upolsterer's that was about 1/4 - 5/16 thick. It's been in all vehicles over seven years an has remained in place. The temps between the roof panel and headliner can reach as high as 170 degrees or more and this causes the vinyl headliner to expand unless stretched really tight. You have to heat the headliner by placing it in the sun before installation or learn to be really handy with a good heat gun so you can get good tension when installing.I did not realize your's was a 4DR so the installation of windlace and headliner are completely different from a 2DR. Mine has chrome trim strips that lap the headliner and windlace on the rear verticle door opening. When it comes to carpet I would recommend a good one with mass backing. These carpets have to be heat molded because of the rubber and quilted backing and tend to fit perfectly when laid in, minimum trimming too. Their about twice the price of the other $hit sold at other places, but then again, you should only have to do it once. Again, makes the car quite and keeps your feet from roasting on hot floor pans. I've seen on TV and tried the spray adhesives by Aylmer's and ProCoat (expensive) but it lets go with heat and is totally useless and loses it's bond even when sprayed on both surfaces. You can use hot glue in small quantity (dabs) to hold windlace in place but buy the higher bond type which is really yellowish in color (3M). It's easy to apply and work with and bonds most anything including metal surfaces - a decent gun is required and you'll find yourself using it for more than you can imagine. Nice teardown and I can see when it comes to workmanship your no sloutch.
 
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I would definitely put some quilted insulation (glued) on the top roof panel before installing the headliner. I've done this on three cars (Ford,Chevy and Mopar) and found it has real advantages - noise, heat and prevents headliner sag due to high temps at the roof panel. I used a spun grey matting I picked up at an upolsterer's that was about 1/4 - 5/16 thick. It's been in all vehicles over seven years an has remained in place. The temps between the roof panel and headliner can reach as high as 170 degrees or more and this causes the vinyl headliner to expand unless stretched really tight. You have to heat the headliner by placing it in the sun before installation or learn to be really handy with a good heat gun so you can get good tension when installing.I did not realize your's was a 4DR so the installation of windlace and headliner are completely different from a 2DR. Mine has chrome trim strips that lap the headliner and windlace on the rear verticle door opening. When it comes to carpet I would recommend a good one with mass backing. These carpets have to be heat molded because of the rubber and quilted backing and tend to fit perfectly when laid in, minimum trimming too. Their about twice the price of the other $hit sold at other places, but then again, you should only have to do it once. Again, makes the car quite and keeps your feet from roasting on hot floor pans. I've seen on TV and tried the spray adhesives by Aylmer's and ProCoat (expensive) but it lets go with heat and is totally useless and loses it's bond even when sprayed on both surfaces. You can use hot glue in small quantity (dabs) to hold windlace in place but buy the higher bond type which is really yellowish in color (3M). It's easy to apply and work with and bonds most anything including metal surfaces - a decent gun is required and you'll find yourself using it for more than you can imagine. Nice teardown and I can see when it comes to workmanship your no sloutch.

Good info and thanks for the compliment.

John
 
So I finally got back to this project. Got two coats on the roof and scrubbed everything else down.

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Started cleaning up some trim as well
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I put the car on ramps and jack stands to get a look at the underside of the front floors. When I got down on the creeper I was getting a whiff of mouse house still. (It was very humid here today)

So after probing these two holes on the frame:
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I found this on the passenger side:
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Which was nothing compared to what came out of the driver's side:
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I pulled all of that stuff out of those holes in the framework. The last third of the driver's side was damp and really stunk.

I pulled a much smaller amount out of both sides under the trunk as well.

Once I get the interior back together, I'll put it on the lift and do a proper and thorough cleaning of all the under carriage nooks and crannies.

So I'll be checking the cowl vents and heater box as well now.

They are industrious little b*st*rds.

Stay tuned, floors are next.

John

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What did you spray on the roof and how did you polish the door sills?
 
What did you spray on the roof and how did you polish the door sills?

I brushed on Rustoleum Rusty metal primer on the roof and pillars. I've had good results with it in the past on many projects.

I used this on the door sills:

Eagle One Nevr-Dull® Wadding Polish

A fair amount of elbow grease will produce good results.

Hope the input helps.

John
 
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